throwout bearing rattle

[rocker_topper]

Is this inevitable on these cars? Complete he's clutch system including slave and master cylinders and getting some throutbearing rattle. It quickly disappears whenever I depress the clutch pedal though

 

[H@xtGSX]

It doesn't normally happen with the urethane sleeved OEM TOB, but if someone put in one of the steel sleeved one's (like my dumb ass did), it will rattle pretty soon after being installed. I replaced my clutch not too long ago and didn't know the difference between the POS bearing that came with the clutch and the OEM one. I saw they were different, but didn't think it would be an issue because it fit tight on the input shaft... Now I am paying the price for that lack of foresight. I have to drop the transmission out again and put in an OEM bearing, but I'm gonna fix my synchros at the same time, so until I get all that crap, it'll be buzzy over 4k...

 

[rocker_topper]

It doesn't normally happen with the urethane sleeved OEM TOB, but if someone put in one of the steel sleeved one's (like my dumb ass did), it will rattle pretty soon after being installed. I replaced my clutch not too long ago and didn't know the difference between the POS bearing that came with the clutch and the OEM one. I saw they were different, but didn't think it would be an issue because it fit tight on the input shaft... Now I am paying the price for that lack of foresight. I have to drop the transmission out again and put in an OEM bearing, but I'm gonna fix my synchros at the same time, so until I get all that crap, it'll be buzzy over 4k...

ok seeing how you recently dropped your tranny can you give me a good estimate as to how long it would take to drop that thing?

 

[H@xtGSX]

If you have a good socket set with a decent breaker bar, some 3 ton+ jackstands, and a floor jack with a transmission rack adapter, I would figure it like this:
About half an hour to get it up on the stands high enough and safe on the stands.
About an hour to an hour and a half to remove all the cables and crap bolted to the housing.
An hour to pop out the axles and swing the suspension out of the way and get the transmission rack on.
30 minutes to unbolt it from the block, wiggle it clear of the flywheel, and drop it to the ground.
15 minutes unbolting the pressure plate, replacing it, and placing the new one with an alignment tool.
Another hour fiddling around trying to get the damn input shaft and the bell housing dowels to line up, then bolting it in place.
Then about 2 hours to pop the axles back in, bolt the suspension back up, reattach all the doodads and cables, and get the wheel back on.
30 minutes getting it off the stands, then taking it for a spin and hoping you were alert and paid careful attention to disk orientation and torque values and that everything works smoothly.

If you haven't done it before, figure it to be an entire day of work. 7.5 hours. I have an impact wrench and other auto shop tools, have done it numerous times, and know exactly what I'm doing and the absolute fastest I can do it in my garage is 2 1/2 hours working at the speed of a methhead hopped up on too much coffee...

That is realistic. Don't let that intimidate you from doing the work though. It is NOT that complicated, and you will save yourself a LOT of money doing it yourself... Even if you have to go buy all the tools I stated above. It will still be cheaper to do it yourself, and you'll be able to do it again later on. Always a good thing.

If that sounds like too much and you'd rather have a shop do it, you're looking at $500-$700, depending on where you are and who you go to. That's for doing the whole clutch. It won't cost much less than that to do just the throw out bearing. You are paying for labor more than anything else.

 

[TheEagle]

Unless for some reason everything rusted/seized in. Then it just takes forever