The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

2G Throttle plate position

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

MasterMatt209

Proven Member
475
30
Jan 17, 2015
Danville, Indiana
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
For a while now I have been chasing why my car starts up and goes straight to 2k rpm. Long story short I was inspecting my throttle body and the pictures I am attaching is with a light behind the plate. To me it looks like a lot of light showing through, this is the plate as far as it will go without the stop screw. Any input is helpful I did rebuild the throttle body before because I was getting a lot of air thought the seals.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
That's definitely a problem. and needs to be replaced. But I'm not 100% sure that it would cause you to run at 2k rpm. But that's a good place to start.
 
That's what happened when my throttle cable was too tight. Have you checked that?

Just want to save you any extra work if I can, and that is literally the easiest fix.
 
That's what happened when my throttle cable was too tight. Have you checked that?

Just want to save you any extra work if I can, and that is literally the easiest fix.

Yes I have checked that, the throttle plate is fully closed when off the pedal and wide open at WOT. Just put a fresh intake manifold gasket too hoping that was my problem. I did a BLT and there is a leak I’m trying to source out under the TB but hard to find where the air is coming from since it’s underneath. I noticed the plate at the time too and how it seems like it could be letting too much air in
 
Yes I have checked that, the throttle plate is fully closed when off the pedal and wide open at WOT. Just put a fresh intake manifold gasket too hoping that was my problem. I did a BLT and there is a leak I’m trying to source out under the TB but hard to find where the air is coming from since it’s underneath. I noticed the plate at the time too and how it seems like it could be letting too much air in
Gotcha. Do the plate, then let us know what happens.
You may have to buy from local junkyard or from a retired dsm'er
 
The plate is not centered. The plate has a tiny bit of play, so loosen the two screws and slide the plate a little bit and see if it fully closes. If it fully closes then tighten the screws with the plate being fully closed. If you can not find a position that the plate fully closes then something is wrong.
But looks like who rebuilt this throttle body stripped the stock screws since it doesn't have them, so maybe he damaged the holes on the plate/shaft when removing the stripped screws. You should remove the plate and inspect it. If the holes for screws on the plate are enlarged or damaged, then should replace it. And if the shaft is modified for different thread pitch or screw diameter, you also should replace it, too. Or just find a complete throttle body would be easier.
 
Agree with @DSMPT the plate is misaligned, upside down or backwards.

I'd bet it's fixable relatively easy, but if not a whole new TB may be necessary. Recommend disassembling and attempting to fix first.
 
The plate is not centered. The plate has a tiny bit of play, so loosen the two screws and slide the plate a little bit and see if it fully closes. If it fully closes then tighten the screws with the plate being fully closed. If you can not find a position that the plate fully closes then something is wrong.
But looks like who rebuilt this throttle body stripped the stock screws since it doesn't have them, so maybe he damaged the holes on the plate/shaft when removing the stripped screws. You should remove the plate and inspect it. If the holes for screws on the plate are enlarged or damaged, then should replace it. And if the shaft is modified for different thread pitch or screw diameter, you also should replace it, too. Or just find a complete throttle body would be easier.

Agree with @DSMPT the plate is misaligned, upside down or backwards.

I'd bet it's fixable relatively easy, but if not a whole new TB may be necessary. Recommend disassembling and attempting to fix first.


I centered it and the area showing light is much smaller. It shouldn’t block completely right? Just trying to make sure it’s right before I put it back on.
 
Agree with DSMPT and Thunderchild. People strip those screws easily. Try loosening them, align plate while holding plate completely closed with fingers (no gaps around it), tighten screws. If it won't do it or stay there, get a new plate.

Completely so no light should shine through?
 
Anyone else extremely nervous about those hardware store throttle plate screws? Red locktite those at minimum--I'd NEVER put that throttlebody on my car again for fear of those screws backing out and ending up in a cylinder. I'd also assume that whoever did that botched other things with the shaft seal install.

Don't quote me on it, but i think the plate and screws from a junkyard 2.4L spyder can be used in a 2g turbo throttle body, might we worth looking into. You'd likely need a new 2g turbo throttle shaft too since those self tapping screws no doubt buggered the threads.

Edit: unrelated to the current problem, but looking at those paint marks on the spring, whoever was in there didn't get the throttle spring tension correct either.

One last thing: where's the fast idle air valve that's supposed to be on the bottom of the throttle body? I don't see a blockoff plate either... If that's missing, and isn't blocked off, that'd be a massive amount of air bypassing the throttle plate.
 
Last edited:
@MasterMatt209
Did you take the pic while you were disassembling the throttle body, right? Because in the pic, the throttle body doesn't have the ISC and FIAV is wide open. If you don't have it, that's the issue.
If you have it, then fix all vacuum leak, connect two coolant lines and try to adjust the BISS, throttle cable, stop screw, the TPS and the base ignition timing properly and see if the idle speed gets proper.
 
Last edited:
To me it looks like the throttle plate is in upside down. Others have had this problem after doing a rebuild too. Check out this thread from a little while back it may help. https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/how-does-this-happen-to-a-throttle-body.519350/#post-153700563
The spring is not tension correctly either. It needs another twist so the added on paint mark makes a straight line.
The plate's direction is correct.
If the screw heads are in the inlet side like the OP's pic then the stamp "50" should be on the upper side of plate. If the screw heads are in the outlet/intake manifold side then the stamp should be on the lower side of plate. And the screw heads and the stamp should be in the same side.
 
Last edited:
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

  • Wanted 1g 1991 Black Cherry Eagle Talon
    5-speed
    • bamatalon
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Misc Left Over Parts
    Hello, I have a few left over parts for sale, these do not include shipping, please pm me for a...
    • r3dmak
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Alpha Injection Clinic 2200cc for 4G63 DSM/EVO
    I have a set of Alpha Injection Clinic 2200cc high z injectors for DSM/EVO. I am stepping up to...
    • spoolinpos
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • Wanted WTB 2g half rad
    ISO of a 2g koyo half rad or something equivalent.
    • Michael Wucher
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Coilover Springs
    Used pair of Eibach coilover springs from an old set of Ground Control coilovers. 2.5" inner...
    • RamenPride
    • Updated:
    • Expires
Back
Top