The right sparkplug

[whiteDSM]

i was wondering if a can use Bosch platinum 4's on my gsx. If so what is the part number for my car for sparkplugs?

 

[MadBeachDSM]

You can, but there's really no reason to, and you won't see any advantages. Plus they're more expensive. Just stick with the proven and cheap NGK's and your DSM will run great.

 

[ilco187]

use ngk bpr6es, there a great plug.

 

[whiteDSM]

k, sounds good. I will get the ngk save me some money.

 

[HurleyTSi]

NGK BR7ES plugs. (no "P") The P stands for projected tip, which I've noticed more people haven't had very good luck with.

 

[tvscream]

NGK BR7ES plugs. (no "P") The P stands for projected tip, which I've noticed more people haven't had very good luck with.

it seems as though many ppl on this site roll with the bpr7es and are experiencing little issues.

 

[HurleyTSi]

it seems as though many ppl on this site roll with the bpr7es and are experiencing little issues.

Why run a projected tip though if given the option? The side electrodes on projected tip plugs runs VERY hot compared to a non-projected. You want a colder spark, especially if you are planning on running more boost.

 

[DSM1G90]

If he's a DD, then the good ol BPR6ES at ".028" for a turbo works wonders. Otherwise the "7s" to run colder on serious modded motors.

I tried them Bosch things in another vehicle I had and my mileage really went to the crapper - went back to simple stock plugs.

 

[the_mork]

For a little clarification here running NGK copper plugs (bpr6es) is not a recommendation it is a necessity. If you run a Bosch anything and especially a platinum tip in your car you are asking for problems and poor performance. Also do not pick up uridium plugs, they do in fact work OK for our cars but at the incredible price that you pay for them they are not worth it especially when you get to the point that you realize you will need to switch heat ranges for your plugs and you have to drop another $20plus on plugs that don't have any real benefit. Uridium plugs are used for vehicles where it is next to impossible to change the spark plugs and the dealer literally doesn't want to change them in the first 100,000 miles while the car is still under warranty. They have no other benefit.

Gapping is another issue, and it will vary depending on your car but most people who think that they might add some mild mods ought to just gap their plugs at .028 and call it a day. If you run a lot more boost than stock (high 20s) then you'll want to go smaller and you'll want to move to a colder plug such as a 7 or an 8.

Personally I run 23.5psi daily and have run as much as 27psi and I use bpr8es plugs gapped at .024. If the auto store would have had 7s on hand when I last changed my plugs I would have used those but the 8s have not had fouling problems for me so I've been happy enough with them even though they cause some low idle issues when the car goes a little leaner than it should.

There is no reason to switch to a colder plug unless you have to. The more boost you run the higher the density of the air in the cylinder which creates greater spark resistance and requires a smaller gap, as cylinder pressure and heat increase it takes less to set off the mixture so you need to go to a plug that has better cooling abilities. The symptoms of the first problem are spark blowout especially at high RPM the symptom of the second problem is knock. The solution to both problems increases fouling.

If you'd like a really in depth look at spark plugs and recommendations for our cars then it is only a search away. There are a number of very good discussions on the hows and whys of copper NGK plugs here.

 

[snowborder714]

As everyone said, use NGK's. Cheap and proven.