The 5K stutter cutout misfire stumble breakup Thread [Merged 7-8]

[Newlogics]

My project 92 Talon just wouldn't be nice to me.

I figured that my smoking problem was due to my turbo leaking oil, since upper IC pipe had whole bunch of oil in it.

Now more porblems arize....

1st: It wouldn't idle normally, instead it revs up to 2K and drops back to 1K every like 2 sec. if idle is adjusted to be lower then 1100 rpm

2nd: When rmp reach 5K under WOT, it hesitates violently. As soon as rpms drop a bit, it's fine again.

(The good thing I fix the unlock buttons, 'cause it had shaved handles and you couldn't get inside by any means except a trunk....)

 

[oplix]

I was cruising on the freeway a few nights ago..I was in 4th at around 4k for about 10-15 minutes just messing around with another car. After I got off the freeway I noticed that the car started bogging around 2.5k rpm whenever I would give it some gas. It also started spiking a little at idle from 750 to about 1k back and forth.

I was pretty freaked out. Anyway I took a look at my muffler and noticed it was pretty rusted. Mind you, I just got the car a few weeks ago so I didn't really inspect the underbody. I was wondering if something in the exhaust system could have cracked which is causing a loss of compression that leads to the bogging/idle spikes.

If anyone has any suggestions please let me know. It's a 97 ESI.

 

[Gstclipse69]

Check your spark plugs and wires

 

[Anonymity]

maybe bad maf?

 

[oplix]

sorry im a bit newb at that stuff how would i check my spark plugs and also what is a maf? Im assuming the fuel pump?

 

[pj91gsx]

my friends idle was like that and we changed the fuel filter and it stopped.

 

[Gstclipse69]

On your valve cover there are wires running to it (4), unplug the wires and put a deep well socket down there and pull the spark plug out. Since your nt i dont know the difference between nt and turbo plugs, but just go to advance, napa etc and get ngk plugs for your car {like 10 bucks}
The maf is the mas airflow sensor on the intake pipe.

 

[davidgt97]

I have spent all day doing boost leak tests trying to get my car to run right and I think I pretty much have all the leaks taken care of (thanks SNOWBOARDER714 for walking me through it) The problem is it still doesn't run right. The car seems to run pretty well no matter how you drive it up to 3900 rpms but as soon as you hit 4k under any load it starts to spit and sputter very bad. Today I also realized it won't free rev in neutral past 5k (same sputtering and popping). If this was boost related I would think it would free rev fine. Ant ideas?

 

[-TunedDSM-]

Have you recently changed your spark plugs? If not, now is the time to do so. Grab a set of NGK BPR6ES and make sure to gap them at .028.

 

[davidgt97]

New plugs w/ new long block about 200 miles ago ngk bpr6es gapped at 28.

 

[gsxtasy]

Did you time it? Check your timing with a light and make sure that's right.

 

[#1 laser]

my car used to do that when i get on it it wont go past the 5k rpm it was an oil seal in my turbo i just replaced the whole turbo even when it was in neutral i revved it hard but still did not go past that rpm

 

[tkelly27]

checked the CEL codes? Hacked MAF? Check for leaks in the inlet tube? Is it exactly 4k? You can normally diagnose something with the computer when it happens at every RPM under all loading conditions. A mechanical issue generally won't happen the exact same RPM ever, and generally not under different loading conditions.

I always bring this up, but in the 1G's the plug to the resistor pack of the ignition is too short, sometimes pulling it out, cleaning it, and putting it back in fixes the worst running car. Worth trying, free and easy : D

 

[davidgt97]

I'll pick up a timing light tomorrow. I have had 2 new turbos in the last 3 months. Right now I have a brand new MHI evo 3 16g. I have a data logger w/ MMCD but I don't know how to check CEL codes w/ it. I can monitor all kinds of sensors but I have no clue what I should be seeing. The MAF is stock. Where is the resistor plug your talking about?

 

[Dsm2nr89]

Have you also replaced your spark plug cables ? I had the same problem on my 2g. Thought it was my transistor pack at first but i didnt want to touch that yet so i changed my plugs and got me some a fresh set of msd 8.5s and that solved the problem. Ever since then the car pulls smoothly and nicely to redline, i shift at 6.5 though .

 

[Defiant]

Do not try to free-rev.

 

[davidgt97]

I put new plugs and wires in today but it still runs like shit. I'll check the timing tomorrow.

I checked the timing today and it was at about 10 btdc so I adjusted up to 5 btdc but it still doesn't run any better. Any ideas would be great I'm really stumped.

I do have a data logger w/ mmcd. If there is some way to use it to diagnose this please let me know.

I do have a data logger w/ mmcd. If there is some way to use it to diagnose this please let me know.

 

[cjridert1]

My buddy gave me a ride in his car the other day - car pulls pretty decent (stock boost, 14b) but cuts out and 'hesitates' real bad @ 5-5500 under stock boost till whenever he lets go of gas or shifts. The hesitation is stop-go-stop-go ~4x a sec, so the car pulsates pretty rapidly and hard enough to make you think the car is having a seizure . He has a 255 WITHOUT an aftermarket FPR, but his idle and driveability is fine. Other than this, the car is mostly stock (he bought it this way with this problem). Any thoughts/ideas? Thanks!

 

[JayRolla]

He needs to boost leak test the car. Also if plugs havnt been changed lately he should do that. Make sure he gets the NGK BPR-6ES plugs. Also if the wires are old they should be replaced with ngk's.

The fuel pump should not be the issue since it wot is not affected when the stock fpr is over ran, which it may not be. I know a few people running 255's with the stock fpr and no issues.

 

[silver bullit]

Sounds like fuel cut.
Boost leak test.

 

[tunethis]

He needs to boost leak test the car. Also if plugs havnt been changed lately he should do that. Make sure he gets the NGK BPR-6ES plugs. Also if the wires are old they should be replaced with ngk's.

The fuel pump should not be the issue since it wot is not affected when the stock fpr is over ran, which it may not be. I know a few people running 255's with the stock fpr and no issues.

I agree, definitely get new plugs and plug wires. When I first bought my car, I changed the plugs, fuel filter, pcv valve, etc. I forgot to change the wires. My car pulled hard until around 4k then it would stuggle to get past that. When I took off the old wires, I noticed corrosion on them. With new wires, I can now pull to redline. It's always good to do a boost leak test too. All sorts of problems can be the result of a boost leak.

 

[spammy123]

had the same problem, scared the crap outta me first time it happened, im running a 16g and not stock boost so turning down the boost fixed it, untill i can get it tuned to run more boost

 

[tsitalon03]

I had the same problem. Its a boost leak trust me.

 

[meliketoball]

It could be a lot of things. But start with the easy first.

 

[RSTeclipse97]

I have the same prob and was told not enough fuel hence i ordered bigger injectors for the amount of boost

 

[r6speed]

I have the same problem with the stock T25. I would suggest FIRST before anything else get an aftermarket boost gauge. Then see what it is really doing. My problem was the Wastegate clapper inside the turbo housing was sticking wide open which caused too much boost for the stock system which equals feul cut. If you take the pin off of the wastegate rod and pull the rod off you should beable to move the peice the rod is connected to with ease all the way open and closed. If you can't that could be your problem.

Also as suggested above, plugs, wires, and definately a boost leak test. (could be stock BOV leaking)