The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

2G Testing fuel pressure regulator

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Spln_Hrd

20+ Year Contributor
1,707
8
Oct 20, 2003
Hastings, Nebraska
i think my fpr might be bad, how can i test this and if it turns out to be my fpr i would like to upgrade it so i would like to know some recomendations

my only fuel mod is a rewired 190 lph fp but i am planning on bumping up to some 650+ injectors

price and quality are equal roles in my choice i am going to college right now so my budget is super small
 
well i think i am loosing fuel pressure slowly when the car sits

when it is cold and i start it, it starts like shiat but if i turn the key to the on position and back 3 times and let it sit for like 5 seconds each time it starts fine so i am thinking my fpr is leaking the pressure or an injector is.
 
stick a guage on it and see what it reads.. good way to start seeing what the problem is. those things cant be more than 20 bucks... for a normal one.
 
Spln_Hrd said:
well i think i am loosing fuel pressure slowly when the car sits

when it is cold and i start it, it starts like shiat but if i turn the key to the on position and back 3 times and let it sit for like 5 seconds each time it starts fine so i am thinking my fpr is leaking the pressure or an injector is.
^^^^ My car does this too. I have yet to explore the reasons for this though....
By a fuel pressure gauge and stick it on the top of the fuel filter. Than post your results. Like I said, my car is doing the same thing, but I know for a fact it is not my fuel pressure. I have a Walbro 225, AFPR, and a gauge on the regulator. My fuel pressure is always consistent.
 
well i am kinda to poor to go buy one unless i need it i only have like 100 bucks to spend on my car and if its an injector i would be really sad if i baught that gauge for no reason
 
Spln_Hrd said:
well i am kinda to poor to go buy one unless i need it i only have like 100 bucks to spend on my car and if its an injector i would be really sad if i baught that gauge for no reason
A fuel pressure gauge is just a good gauge to have, period. If you got one, it would not be "for no reason". They are cheap too. PM me. I got one for $26 brand neww and it comes with all the fittings you need. :dsm:
 
LOL paul you are like a damn street salesmen. oh you need that? no problem i got that right here.. as he pulls it out of his coat.
 
i would defenatly be interested in the gauge if i am going to get a aftermarket fpr

how can i test my injectors i have a datalogger will that help? i also have a hks super afr and i have leaned it out about 4 % across the board and my car runs between .98-1.04 i cannot lean out my car, it backfires like fuel cut after i am in it for a little while i don't know what is wrong i and would like some help

my car starts funny when its cold it runs tooooo rich and i don't know if i should try leaning it out more with my afr or what. i don't know what my fuel trims should look like i don't know what my mafs should be reading for lb/min and everytime i ask no one answeres. it doesn't pull like it should except in first, the higher the gear the more shitty it runs it shoots out clouds of black smoke.
 
Who put your fuel pump in? I wonder if its this.

From vfaq.

Be careful when putting the pump up into the fuel feed line - the rubber O-ring should be lubed with some grease, oil, or spit (hey, it works) so that the O-ring slips easily into the feed line. If it does not, the O-ring can kink or tear, and the car will be hard to start after sitting a few minutes, as the kinked/torn O-ring will allow the fuel to bleed out of the feed lines. The symptom will be that the car will take several seconds to start after sitting more than a minute or 2, but starts right up if you turn it off and then immediately start it back up.
 
Mike000 said:
Who put your fuel pump in? I wonder if its this.

From vfaq.

Be careful when putting the pump up into the fuel feed line - the rubber O-ring should be lubed with some grease, oil, or spit (hey, it works) so that the O-ring slips easily into the feed line. If it does not, the O-ring can kink or tear, and the car will be hard to start after sitting a few minutes, as the kinked/torn O-ring will allow the fuel to bleed out of the feed lines. The symptom will be that the car will take several seconds to start after sitting more than a minute or 2, but starts right up if you turn it off and then immediately start it back up.


^ Ditto. If you've replaced your pump recently, that is MOST LIKELY your problem.

As for testing your injectors, only way is to put them on a flowbench. You can also check the resistance of them (2-3 ohms). As for fuel pressure, easiest way is to get a cheap gauge from summit or go to a shop where they will hook up a gauge adapter to the fuel filter outlet since DSMs have no schrader valve on the fuel rail. Watch the pressure at idle, it should be around 27-32, and then disconnect the vac hose from the regulator (plug the hose when doing this) and you can watch your pressure jump to 38-40 or so.
 
Spln_Hrd said:
well i think i am loosing fuel pressure slowly when the car sits

when it is cold and i start it, it starts like shiat but if i turn the key to the on position and back 3 times and let it sit for like 5 seconds each time it starts fine so i am thinking my fpr is leaking the pressure or an injector is.


Also the reason for that is when the key is turned to "on", the pump is primed.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top