2G Tearing Into 97 Talon - What's Next DSM'ers?

[Drachenblut]

Happy Good Friday, All!

So I spent the last couple weeks between work and life to start learning then tearing into my mystery 97 Talon. Would love your opinions. What I was told by the guy who sold it to me on behalf of his brother (Legal/Legit Transfer, his brother no longer lives in the country):

Before owner (one owner car) put the car into garage storage some 11 years ago, he spent approx 15-20K on upgrading it, including a double layer matte black pro paint job and anti-rust treatments. Life changed and he basically left the car in his brother's garage and moved on with his life. Fast forward to now.

What I have determined (in order of it coming to mind):
1. That's likely true. A buddy of mine who paints transports told me the paint job looks pro-done and still looks great for it's age, likely cost "North of 5K back in the day"
2. Complete routing, front mount Intercooler setup from Vibrant
3. Possibly a "Ghost" Body Kit from back in the day
3. She's got a ECMTune V3 Full Suite, with working launch control, connection modified, full replacement ECU (what a BTCH to get out!) I have a cable coming, none was in the car.
4. Kenwood Ex Single Din Radio
5. Greddy BOV
6. Precision Turbo - it's large frame, I can't find any numbers on it or on plates on it, only number is on the intake which is "M12"
7. Upgraded Coilovers of some kind
8. Upgraded Clutch & Flywheel of some kind
9. Short throw shifter of some kind
10. Aftermarket stainless steel exhaust header
11. Custom turbo-back 3" stainless steel exhaust system
12. Brand new Conti timing belt 1000 Km
13. Possible cams.

I spoke to another member here, and he says my car is still "mostly stock" with EGR stuff hooked up. I don't have experience to say either way.

Currently in the process of putting the interior back together after ripping it apart to get the ECU out (it was bolted into it's own holder, way up behind the radio and environment controller), then full fluid changes.

Please see pics attached. Thanks. She's my baby. Initial Budget is 5-7K to get her fully street-worthy and running well.

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ATTACH type="full" alt="April 17 Talon ECU Interior.jpg"]762478[/ATTACH]

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[19Eclipse90]

It’s not “nearly stock” with all that going on. But worry about all that later. Do you have any other maintenance history? Having sat for 11 years is concerning. You say the timing belt is brand new but if that was done 11 years ago and only has 1000km on it, you ought to look at replacing it, the hydraulic tensioner, and water pump before doing much else.

Review the DSM Maintenance Guide and take care of all that. It will be good to get the ECMLink cable to determine what the ECU is set up for and have the ability to monitor things if you need. With all the bolt-ons, it would be wise to verify what injectors are installed as well.

 

[curt-s]

It was stored in a garage but where was this garage? Was it climate controlled?
Looking at the rust on the exhaust studs, I'd say it was quite humid. Add the interior condition and you may want to dig deeper for signs of mold.

Also you'll want to address those strut towers, both sides. Get a bore scope and take a look, surprises may lurk from under the liners.

 

[Drachenblut]

Hey there, temp controlled no, there is some rust but a lot of it was protected by sprayed hot oil coat on clean metal. Interior doesn't have mold from what I see, but worst comes I find it and deal with it. Good suggestions. For what I paid, I wasn't expecting concourse anyways.

 

[curt-s]

No, but some stuff doesn't appear to affect you until it does. Like mold in/under the carpet or the foam/upholstery, behind the door cards. Insidious shit that doesn't always present obviously.

The strut towers can/do rust from underneath in spots that retain water and moisture. Spraying oil in the engine bay does nothing for it. You have to get to the hidden place, a bore scope helps.

Good luck and we're here for ya

 

[Drachenblut]

Hey there,
Respect brother. I hear you on the mold. What do I do if I find it?

Sounds good about the bore scope, I will have a look, and investigate. Thanks.

Anything else?

 

[curt-s]

There's various ways out there for cleaning mold. Some less invasive methods (ie. Not harsh chemicals) involve distilled white vinegar solution

The major bit is what Brian said -- timing belt, tensioner, water pump. That's a long time to sit, that belt aged whether it ran or not.
I'd also be wondering the condition of the fuel tank too, especially if it wasn't filled to the neck.

Regarding bore scopes, I have a depstech dual camera bought off Amazon and recommend the brand
As much as I am no longer sending money bezos' way, Amazon is a source for cheap Chinese electronics and this scope is solid. Came with hook attachments and everything.

 

[Drachenblut]

Hey there

Ok so my mechanic dropped the tank, it's clean inside. Checked the belt thoroughly with him, running and not, and it's in great shape, as are the tensioners. He sees no reason to replace it.

My major concern is that the car struggles to go into first and won't stay in first, but goes into every other gear. However if you try to put it into other gears after it won't go into first, it "fights you" and doesn't want to go into other gears.

The car has a fully functional launch control, and the guy who owned it before me was likely power shifting it, and we are concerned, not sure yet what's wrong. What would you say we should be looking for?

We shall see how things go!

 

[Drachenblut]

Hey there - Update. My car is with a specialty mechanic who is doing a full transmission rebuild, differential strengthening, and much much more, with a full tune! It's a big, VERY expensive job, but it'll be one and done, synergistic, and I am hoping for around 400-450 HP when finished. I don't need more, for now.