2G Talon Spyder Turn Signal Wiring

[Doubleot]

Has anyone that did the Talon swap on a spyder fixed the flasher turn signal issue? I bought a resistor to wire in and it didn't change anything. I'm wondering where to go from here.

 

[GRNDSM]

This post was originally in AWD swap threads, so I had it moved here. What value resistor did you use?

I have the same problem and will have to address it this spring (it is driving me crazy, more than it should ).

 

[gofer]

Forget the resistor mod. fellas, go straight to what's causing the hyper-blink... the flasher unit in the dash. It sits on the right side of the center console, behind the HVAC controls.

1. Open the box.
2. You'll see a circuit card with a hard bar hoop soldered to it.
3. Cut the horizontal portion of the bar off, leaving just the vertical portions of it protruding from the board.
4. Take male bullet connectors and slide them over each vertical bar, then carefully "crimp" them so they stay secure.

Now build an 18" long 16awg wire and put female bullet connectors on each end and plug each end of it to the circuit board.

Here's a photo I took when I modified mine. I was making it up as I went so initially I tried soldering the wire to the board but it wasn't working out well, I never took a final picture though but this should give an a general idea. Also, this wire wasn't long enough so it took some experimenting. Basically, you're just adding wire there to increase resistance on the circuit to trick it into not hyper-blinking. I experimented and ended up with ~18" of wire before it was enough to keep the blinkers in check, then I just neatly wrapped the wire up, zip tied it, and slide it back into the box mounting it back up under the dash.

No resistors necessary.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[GRNDSM]

So your 18" 16awg wire is your resistor? That doesn't seem to offer much resistance, kind of strange...

Seems like instead of a wire, you should be able to install a proper resistor right into this flasher unit.

 

[gofer]

Go for it. I prefer using what's on hand in my garage, the wire method works and I didn't need to route any add'l wiring to my tails. Just move the brake/blinker signals around.

 

[Doubleot]

That is interesting and seems like it would be the easiest solution as I have most of that on hand. Thanks for the post!

I used 50w 60hm resistor and it didnt' change a thing. I wired it into the lead wire that I had to run to the tail lights and it didn't do a thing.

 

[gofer]

The nice thing about the bullet connectors is that it allows you to experiment with different wire lengths and it's pnp. I did this for EDM tails but it's the same concept.

 

[brads]

So your 18" 16awg wire is your resistor? That doesn't seem to offer much resistance, kind of strange...

Seems like instead of a wire, you should be able to install a proper resistor right into this flasher unit.

The resistor he is clipping out may be a current sense resistor. They are usually very low resistance, so as not to affect the circuit much. It goes inline with the circuit, so the current of all of the lighting circuit goes through it. If you know the resistor value, you can calculate the current from the voltage drop across the resistor. By adjusting the resistor value up, you trick the circuit into thinking there is more current draw than there really is.

This is a cleaner way to do it than adding the load resistors. The load resistors trick the device by actually drawing lots of current, creating excess heat etc.

If you have a good resistance measuring device, you may be able to measure the resistance of the sense resistor. Then you could buy a proper one from digikey to drop on to the PCB.

 

[GRNDSM]

Another way to look at this is to look up resistance of 18 inches of 16awg wire (4ohm per 1000feet, so only .006 ohm per 18").

There is this resistor:

http://www.digikey.com/product-sear...=0&page=1&quantity=0&ptm=0&fid=0&pageSize=500

.006 ohm and 300W capable, but it is HUGE: 8" long! So Core's wire doesn't seem so bad after all

 

[brads]

300W capable sense resistor seems like overkill. It'd work for up to 600,000 Watts worth of turn signal bulbs, give or take a little You wouldn't notice when the sense resistor failed, because the rest of the wiring and car would have long since melted.

The nice thing about sense resistors, is that because they are such a small resistance compared to that big load resistor, you can use a much smaller watt resistor. A 1W resistor of 0.006Ohms would work for 2000W worth of lights downstream.

Here's a good one from Digikey, except it is 0.005 Ohm

https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/bourns-inc/PWR4412-2SBR0050F/PWR4412-2SBR0050F-ND/2564425

Part of the reason I suggested trying to measure it if possible, is that there is going to be some resistance across the contacts he added. Plus the formula for the resistance per foot on wire is pretty generic. It gets him in the right ball park though, so he could buy a few sense resistors around that range and try them out.

And if this method of fixing the blink rate isn't in the archives, it should be. It is a clever fix!

 

[Doubleot]

Very cleaver fix, I'm surprised it hasn't been brought up before. Thanks for the replies guys!

 

[gofer]

I just did it a month or two ago, initially I entertained the resistor write-up (adding a 8 ohm/20 watt resistor to each side of the circuit), I even bought the resistors but after digging through the FSM deeper I thought I'd try something else first and luckily it worked.
This is the write-up that led me to the flasher unit behind the HVAC controls ---> Correct 2g EDM Tail Light Wiring

I haven't really had much time to do a tech article but I'm telling you, once I finally got the blinkers/brake lights functioning properly with these EDM tails it was right up there with my first 11 second pass in accomplishments, with all the time I spent in the damn electrical FSM. You're right though, I should do a more detailed write-up with the finished pictures, etc. and toss it in the tech articles for future reference.

Anyway, I'm glad you guys can benefit from it but like Brads is saying, it's not an 1+1=2 fix. The connectors, solder, etc. can create more/less resistance on the circuit so using an 18" 16awg wire might not be enough to keep your particular setup from hyperblinking. The way I tested it was trial and error, basically cutting the wire shorter and shorter in 1" increments, testing it after each time. At first I thought I was pissing in the wind because I couldn't keep it from hyperblinking after adding 12" onto the circuit which I thought would be plenty. So I said, "f*** it" and grabbed a long 36" piece and connected it up and the blinkers quit hyperblinking so from there I kept shortening the wire until I went too short and it started hyperblinking. I grabbed a new piece of wire added an inch to it (based off the one I had cut too short being used for testing) and found that the shortest piece I could get away with and have them not hyperblink was ~18".


Since this is a Talon conversion thread, just to let you guys know I have a 2g Talon and 2g Eclipse electrical FSM if you guys are wanting to see proper wire routing too and how they both compare. I can post scanned .pdf images of the tail light wiring for both if you think it would help?

 

[GRNDSM]

I did the same procedure this weekend! I soldered one side of 20" long, 16 AGW wire and attached the other side with an alligator clip to tested the set up. IT WORKED! So I completed the job by soldering the other side and neatly coiling the wire (as you see in the photos). But it was back to rapid flash when I installed it in the car!

Apparently, just holding the wire up to post, created enough resistance to make it work, but when I soldered that connection, resistance went down and my fix didn't work!

I had cut the wire in the middle and add another 8" of wire to make it work!

So it isn't as neat and pretty as my photos suggest, but it works (for now). Since we are dealing with very small resistance values, I can see this being affected by temperature. We shall see

Thanks for the tip!