tachometer, misfiring, starting problems

[damianb401]

ok I had the crank and cam sensors replaced in my car after one of them went bad a little while ago. ever since, my car had been sitting in my garage for a bit because of an oil leak problem. I fixed the leak and recently i tried to start it up but I cant without a jump ( the battery is fairly new). I cleaned off my battery terminals and drove the car to autozone to test my alternator. They said the battery wasnt holding the charge so I should replace that again. On the way home my tachometer went nuts and started jumping spinning around and then went to zero. Whenever the rpms reached a highass number the car would sputter (im guessing its misfiring?) and run very weak until I made it home.

what do you guys think?

 

[jared36588]

i had similar issues only without my tach goin nuts. i put ngk wires on it and it worked perfect

 

[ADrewzki]

My logic would say that since you replaced the cam and crank sensors recently, start by troubleshooting there. They provide input to the ECU for firing injectors and spark so it might be the issue. How did the alternator test turn out? I hate Autozone fwiw.

 

[damianb401]

autozone said it was fine but i dont think the guy knew what he was doing

 

[vzeoh6om]

ok I had the crank and cam sensors replaced in my car after one of them went bad a little while ago. ever since, my car had been sitting in my garage for a bit because of an oil leak problem. I fixed the leak and recently i tried to start it up but I cant without a jump ( the battery is fairly new). I cleaned off my battery terminals and drove the car to autozone to test my alternator. They said the battery wasnt holding the charge so I should replace that again. On the way home my tachometer went nuts and started jumping spinning around and then went to zero. Whenever the rpms reached a highass number the car would sputter (im guessing its misfiring?) and run very weak until I made it home.

what do you guys think?

did you get the new battery? if not try swaping out yours with a known good one and check the results. because your bat,coil,transistor and plugs are all tied in together... and also the tachometer since it gets its input from the transistor...double check battery terminals

 

[damianb401]

I'll try swappin it out for a new one. The terminals are in good condition. If this doesnt help do you think i should just go down the line and replace the wires then coil? The plugs are fairly new

 

[vzeoh6om]

I'll try swappin it out for a new one. The terminals are in good condition. If this doesnt help do you think i should just go down the line and replace the wires then coil? The plugs are fairly new

try and get a new bat (or known good one) and see what hapends... if the problem still there then check the connection at the transitor and coil..mainly transitor..i had a similar prob where my car would die when ever i reached bout 3500 n it was because of a loose conection at the transistor that looked like it was properly connected......also just because its a fairly new bat dosent mean you should rule it out the equation...ive learn that from time and time again

 

[jared36588]

ok now im almost positive its your power transistor mine just started doin it again and i had a loose wire. i fixed works perfect.

 

[95'RS-T]

I'm gonna put my money on that its the crank sensor again.

 

[Sp1kE]

ok now im almost positive its your power transistor mine just started doin it again and i had a loose wire. i fixed works perfect.

+1 on the power transistor.
That unit tells your coils to fire and (on the 1g's atleast) provides the tach signal.

I had mine start to go bad, and it did the jumpy tach. I limped home before it totally died on me.

 

[damianb401]

sorry i didnt update, but problem solved it was my battery