Switch to 5w-30 oil to reduce burning?

[PaintMunky468]

My 2g gs-t burns oil, and I was told that switching to 5w-30 oil instead of 10w-30 will reduce the amount of oil I lose (I use fully synthetic). I either lose oil from my piston rings or the head. The turbo blew several months ago and i upgraded, so thats not the reason. I do not lose a huge amount, maybe a 1/4 of a quart on a week with a lot of highway miles. Is this true? Does anyone suggest switching to 5w-30?

 

[Matt300ZXT]

Ok you're synthetic 10w30 leaks by seals and rings and burns off, yet you think running an even thinner, already thin (because it's synthetic) oil is going to make it better? Don't mean to sound like an ass, but that's not going to help the burn off. Try running a conventional motor oil. It's not really the 10w30 that's your problem, it's that synthetic oil is very very thin, like water. Besides, many people say synthetic is bad for your turbocharged motor due to the oil sometimes slipping past seals and things like that. Why not run a high quality conventional 10w30 for an oil change and see if it burns less. I recommend Valvoline.

I had the same problem you do. My turbo leaks some fluids at the center section, and I was putting in a quart of Mobil 1 every week and a half or two weeks. I switched to plain old Valvoline, and I'd say 70% of the problem was solved right there.

 

[Slo TSI]

I had the same problem and switched to conventional motor oil. Now my car doesn't smoke out the tailpipe and burn oil as much as before. Just remember to change your oil more often because it breaks down easyer than than synthetic. I use 5-30 in winter and 10-30 in the summer also I change my oil every 2k if it helps.

 

[95GST2841]

good info.. I was always told use mobil 1 synthetic 10w30

 

[RamenPride]

most people with cars that burn oil use a heavier oil, not a thinner one

 

[Marc91GSX]

I do not know why your mechanic would tell you that a 5/30 oil would work better. It is virtually the same thing as a 10/30 oil. The only difference is startup thickness, they are both 30 wieght oils at operating temps. As for synthetic being thinner, that is false. They are both measured by SAE standards for wieght.

 

[Marc91GSX]

Dang I hate my ISP. Half of my reply got left off.

Anyways to answer your question, I do not beleve that switching to a thicker oil will cure your smoking problem. If you are burning oil then more than likely you have one of three problems. You are getting oil into your intake from the PCV, your rings are wearing out, or you have a valve stem leak. Those are the most common causes of burning oil but there are others. I think we can eliminate bad turbo seals since you said that you had a new turbo. Do a compression test on your engine, and check to make sure your PCV is functioning properly.

 

[Morphius]

Alot of people here run 20W-50 on higher mileage engines. I run this on all my motors.

 

[Piranha451]

I run 20w-50 because that is closest to what listed in the manual (It lists 20w-40 but no auto stores seem to be able to get that weight) for my area's temperature range. But like was already stated, if you are burning oil a heavier weight should help. There is a product called Marvel Mystery Oil that you can add once in a while that is supposed to help with your issue. Its really thick stuff.

 

[fr33b1rth]

hey, it sounds like you are getting an excess of blow-by. take off your oil cap while the motor is running and see if you get a lot of smoke. how do you know your motor is burning it? do you see the smoke coming out your tail pipe? what people mistake for "burning oil" is usually just bad seals in the oil pan and valve cover.

if you are seeing smoke, is it on or off boost, or both? if it's only on boost, it sound like it's time for some seafoam. that's because your motor can seal under "normal" conditions, but under hard conditions it's having problems sealing.

if it smokes at startup, check to see that your PCV vlave isn't shot and leaking oil into the intake tract. when i got my talon with 105k on the clock it still had the stock PCV valve in it and was blowing enough oil into the intake tract that when i took off the intake hose it leaked out a bit.

if it smokes off boost, try valvaline (sp?) high mileage. it actully works. it's the only oil that makes my leaky seals on my talon not leak, and it stops my vlaves from leaking oil into the motor.

 

[larsenracing]

When I switched from regular oil to synthetic my car never used a drop of regular and then when I swithed to synthetic it used about 3/4qt it 2,500 miles. For some reason synthetic must slip by and get burnt easier.

 

[shpyder]

I use 20W-50 also, as SBR recommends on their motors.

 

[overdoseheroin]

15w-50 mobil one here.

 

[FenixTX717]

i've been using the new mobil 0w30 fully synthetic and it's awesome....very thin of course but my lifter ticking has almost completely gone away though i'm going to eventually change them anyways

but i've been really happy with the 0w30, no complaints yet

 

[oplix]

just switched my oil to 10w-40 mobil 1 75+k mileage. Working good so far. Can't tell if it's burning yet though

 

[rodent]

My lifter tick is gone with German Castrol 0-30. Another great oil and doesn't have the crappy ISLAC GF-4 rating with lower zinc levels like all other oils on the shelf these days.

Another good oil to use is Rotella. Even Comp Cams is suggesting Rotella since it has higher zinc and magnesium.
http://highperformancepontiac.com/tech/hppp_060600_oil_basics_06_z.jpg

 

[Defiant]

We have an oil thread. It's closed, for reasons that are demonstrated here. If you'd like to discuss oil, try Bob Is The Oil Guy

Secret clue: oil really doesn't matter to a DSM. It's not a fussy motor. Changing weights won't affect oil consumption enough to matter. If you're using or losing oil, changing engines will fix it. Nothing else.