Steve93Talon
20+ Year Contributor
- 1,629
- 175
- Jan 20, 2005
-
Philly Burbs,
Pennsylvania
My previous 14b setup years ago was full weight, on a stock SMIC, 5 knob AFC, stock ECU, 2.5" exhaust, hacked 1G MAF, 2600/street disc, stock injectors/FPR, Denso 190 pump, and HKS 272s (which probably hurt more than they helped on a 14b). I ran a best of 12.12 @ 112 on VP103 unleaded and 12.4 @ 109 on straight 93 octane. This was an AWD car on beat 205/55 16 street tires. If it were a FWD car on slicks, it would've still been in the 12s easily.
The power I'm making on my current setup isn't much greater than that old setup. The 14b reaches a choke point where cams, octane, intercooling, exhaust, etc don't really gain anything. See the lengthy 14b thread for more details on what it takes to go fast with one. I could go back to stock injectors, stock ECU/MAF, etc and still run about the same numbers on pump gas with this car. Most of the mods were either done to the car before I bought it or were chosen to accommodate future plans and don't help on 14b setup in any way.
As for the weight reduction, again, this car was converted to FWD temporarily. That alone took out almost 300 lbs. The car has all stock glass and sheet metal except a CF hood - and it's a fairly heavy VIS with full underside bracing. It's had ABS removed (plenty of cars came without it), no power steering (maybe 5lbs), no AC/HVAC (50-75 lbs?), no sound deadener (25 lbs), lighter seats/harnesses (50 lbs?) and not much else. Then factor in the 8pt mild cage, which probably adds 100 lbs back in.
The tires on the car are M&H 24.5 x 8 15" slicks. Hence my comment about traction being key. My setup without 3/4 of the mods, full weight, would still run 12s, yet if you keep the mods and run street tires I'd be lucky to break into the 13s.
As for cost, I've got well under $4k into the car - including the car. I bought the shell/seats/ECU/hood/suspension/FMIC/exhaust from a friend who parted his setup out. The rest was either laying around the garage or bought used with the exception of the 15s/slicks. Anyone who doubts what a 14b FWD setup can do on a dirt cheap budget should read some DSM history:
Goodwill1
The power I'm making on my current setup isn't much greater than that old setup. The 14b reaches a choke point where cams, octane, intercooling, exhaust, etc don't really gain anything. See the lengthy 14b thread for more details on what it takes to go fast with one. I could go back to stock injectors, stock ECU/MAF, etc and still run about the same numbers on pump gas with this car. Most of the mods were either done to the car before I bought it or were chosen to accommodate future plans and don't help on 14b setup in any way.
As for the weight reduction, again, this car was converted to FWD temporarily. That alone took out almost 300 lbs. The car has all stock glass and sheet metal except a CF hood - and it's a fairly heavy VIS with full underside bracing. It's had ABS removed (plenty of cars came without it), no power steering (maybe 5lbs), no AC/HVAC (50-75 lbs?), no sound deadener (25 lbs), lighter seats/harnesses (50 lbs?) and not much else. Then factor in the 8pt mild cage, which probably adds 100 lbs back in.
The tires on the car are M&H 24.5 x 8 15" slicks. Hence my comment about traction being key. My setup without 3/4 of the mods, full weight, would still run 12s, yet if you keep the mods and run street tires I'd be lucky to break into the 13s.
As for cost, I've got well under $4k into the car - including the car. I bought the shell/seats/ECU/hood/suspension/FMIC/exhaust from a friend who parted his setup out. The rest was either laying around the garage or bought used with the exception of the 15s/slicks. Anyone who doubts what a 14b FWD setup can do on a dirt cheap budget should read some DSM history:
Goodwill1
Then it will be time to move on to the holset I have waiting in the closet 
.
