stumble stumble???

[kspharris]

I installed my ebay intake pipe and reused my K&N filter. Before I install it I did a boost leak test and fixed one on the FPR line and one on the BOV. Then the BOV (stock) leaked at very low pressure. I had no trouble before the intake and now the RPM's fall to rapidly when I am higher in the RPM band and press in the clutch. It doesn't die but falls low enough to make the dash lights come on and them go back off. I did not reset my computer. I installed everything with the battery still installed and connected. My BOV also sounds different than it did before, it used to be like psssshhhhhhh and now it is like psssrrrrtttttt! If you can understand that. It blows off....sharper. Is it just that I need to reset my ECU? My gas mileage is off now. It used to be $375-400 per tank and this tank it is 300. Any ideas? Let me know and thanks in advance.

 

[1990talon]

Is the tube that goes back into the intake hooked up properly might want to check that

 

[kspharris]

Yes everything is hooked up properly. Any other ideas? It idles at 750 which is what it has always idled at, so that would not be the BISS, right?

 

[kspharris]

I need help with this, can a wise man help me? I need to get this fixed tonight. Andy where are you? Are you in the bathroom? Aren't you supposed to be on here all the time? Thank you.

 

[andymoraitis]

Whatever you do, hang in there and be patient. The mods don't look too favorably on thread bumping. Just an FYI.

Anyway, let me mull this over for a few and then I'll add some suggestions.

OK, I'm done thinking. I'd pull the negative terminal to the battery for about 30 second and start by resetting the ECU. When that's done, remove the MAF plug and re-seat it, making sure that it's snapped in tight. Also re-check your connection from the intake to the turbine inlet (the coupler and clamp). As far as the BOV sound, that WILL change with a hard pipe. The sound is more pronounced and more metallic so that's normal. Also re-check the connections to the BOV recirculation tube and make sure that the hose from the BOV to the intake is tight. You are recirculating right?

 

[kenamond]

I installed my ebay intake pipe and reused my K&N filter. Before I install it I did a boost leak test and fixed one on the FPR line and one on the BOV. Then the BOV (stock) leaked at very low pressure. I had no trouble before the intake and now the RPM's fall to rapidly when I am higher in the RPM band and press in the clutch. It doesn't die but falls low enough to make the dash lights come on and them go back off. I did not reset my computer. I installed everything with the battery still installed and connected. My BOV also sounds different than it did before, it used to be like psssshhhhhhh and now it is like psssrrrrtttttt! If you can understand that. It blows off....sharper. Is it just that I need to reset my ECU? My gas mileage is off now. It used to be $375-400 per tank and this tank it is 300. Any ideas? Let me know and thanks in advance.

Make sure your the vaccuum line between the BOV and IM is connected and not leaking. Could the sound you hear be surge? Also, during a boost leak test, if the vaccuum line isn't connected, it won't be pushing on the BOV valve which normally would help to hold the BOV closed, so it would leak at a lower pressure. Also, if the BOV isn't being opened properly, your compressor could surge which would drop airflow more quickly than if it were recirculating, and this might explain the quick drop in revs when you let off the gas.

 

[kspharris]

Thanks Andy and Heck yes! I am recirculating, do you think that I am a Noobie or someth.......wait I am a Noobie! That sucks. I will do that and get back to you guys. Kenamond, I will check again but that is one of the leaks that I fixed. I did the leak test with the line connected first, while I was fixing the leaks and then I disconected it when I did it again and forgot, so that is probably why it was holding low boost. Thank you both.

 

[andymoraitis]

No worries. That's what we're here for. It's either than or the free virtual beer (burp!)

 

[kspharris]

Ok I reset my ECU, disconected the neg for like 10 secs and now it dies when you start it and when you press in the clutch and all the time it dies. Well I also installed a new K&N just to make sure because mine was crap. Andy, I hope that you are not in the bathroom or drunk from the virtual beer. If not here is a case for your troubles. Ohh yeah I searched but did not find any info, how long does it take for the ECU to figure itself out after a reset?

 

[kenamond]

Ok I reset my ECU, disconected the neg for like 10 secs and now it dies when you start it and when you press in the clutch and all the time it dies. Well I also installed a new K&N just to make sure because mine was crap. Andy, I hope that you are not in the bathroom or drunk from the virtual beer. If not here is a case for your troubles. Ohh yeah I searched but did not find any info, how long does it take for the ECU to figure itself out after a reset?

I would disconnect it longer than 10 seconds, but I'm not sure how long is enough - the longer you leave it off, the more certain you can be that it cleared memory. I'm not sure how long it takes for it to set trims, etc. to re-tune itself after you've cleared memory.

Did you check that your MAS plug is firmly connected?

Also, some of the intake pipes have a rubber insert/adapter to get the right diameter for the compressor inlet, and if that gets cocked sideways when you shove the intake pipe onto the turbo, it could be blocking a lot of flow. I know my Dejon intake pipe has that and I have to be really careful when I put it back on after a boost leak test.

 

[kspharris]

Thanks Kenamond I was worried about the way the intake fit the turbo. I did make sure that the connector was tight. I checked everything again. It is doing better this morning though but still not right. I will check the intake this weekend and do another boost leak test. Any other ideas guys?

 

[andymoraitis]

The best way to install an intake if you're worried about coupler fitment is to put the coupler on the compressor inlet first without anything else attached. That way you can be sure that the fit is snug all the way around. Then you can put the hard pipe in, align everything and join it to the compressor coupler.

I never had problems from doing an intake install unless I forgot to do something properly like plug in the MAF or make sure that the coupler was fully on the compressor inlet.

 

[kspharris]

Thanks Andy, did you get the case of beer I sent earlier up? Does your intake pipe by the compressor seam smaller than the compressor inlet? I think that mine is smaller. Thanks again.

 

[andymoraitis]

Yup, I got the virtual beer, but I'm not much of a drinker anyway so I passed it around to the wiseman/moderating team. Last I heard, Bruce and Michael were really digging in.

My inlet on the compressor is 3" and my pipe is 2.75", but I run an adapter to get everything to fit properly with a 3" coupler. If your pipe necks down and is considerably smaller, that may have an effect and contribute to what you're seeing. The best way to tell the difference is to pull everything off and measure the comp inlet and the pipe inlet.

 

[kenamond]

The best way to install an intake if you're worried about coupler fitment is to put the coupler on the compressor inlet first without anything else attached. That way you can be sure that the fit is snug all the way around. Then you can put the hard pipe in, align everything and join it to the compressor coupler.

My rubber adapter is a press fit into the intake pipe coupler and is a bit larger than the compressor inlet, so I have to shove the adapter into the pipe coupler and then carefully slide it over the compressor inlet. The other way just doesn't work for my setup (I've tried); it just shoves the adapter back onto the compressor, and in the confined space, it's just a pain to try to do it that way. The adapter is still larger than the compressor inlet by a bit, so you just have to make sure you get it over the inlet lip and aren't interfering on the back side where you can't see/feel what's going on.

As for the original poster, just do what makes sense for your setup, but keep that warning in mind.

 

[andymoraitis]

Gotta love those DejonTool adapter setups. Jeez for the money you pay...

 

[kenamond]

Gotta love those DejonTool adapter setups. Jeez for the money you pay...

No kidding. Nice looking part, but DAG GUM! atleast give me a nice 2.75" to 2.25" coupler and enough room for it! I'm also not too enthused about the UICP replacing the TB elbow. Pulling it off means risking TB gasket boost leaks every time. I've thought about just cutting the pipe and putting a coupler on.

 

[kspharris]

Got it fixed, I had a leak at the throttle body elbow and I guess the BOV. I couldn't tell until I put my FMIC and Greddy on. I boost leak tested it and found it and now it works perfect. Thanks for all the help guys.