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Stuck lug nuts help!

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terrystalon

10+ Year Contributor
33
0
Apr 5, 2009
Watertown, New York
I have lug nuts that require a 12 MM KEY (like an allen key/hex key) I can not get them to come off for NOTHING! I have drilled a hole into the stud, tried a AIR impact gun on them. I have tried a breaker bar with a cheater pipe, and PB Blaster. I am running low on patience and running out of ideas. One of my rear brake pads have snapped in half and im trying to get the wheel off to replace the pads. SO as of now I can not drive it anywhere for that reason. ANY suggestions at all would be GREAT.
 

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looks like the lug nuts are stuck on the rim. like the wrong size for that rim was used.

my suggestion is get a bigger cheater pipe.
 
I've seen this exact thing before. Last time was on an Explorer with 22's. We ended up using a 3/4" impact and just powered the fockers off... of course every stud snapped and the lug wells were all torn up. But we did get them off. Quick little weld and refinish on the wheel and pounded in the new studs. Not saying this is your only option but I'd bet that the studs are trashed anyway. Whatever fu(ktard powered the "tuner" lugs into the wheel already damaged it and those lugs aren't coming off without taking threads.
 
Power tools LOL. Get a big breaker bar for that and bust that nut LOL. I know sounds perverted.:sneaky:
 
You can try to drill all the way through the stud but your stud will be trash and possibly your Hub.
 
Never saw lugs that require an allen bit. That seems ridiculous.

I'm going to agree with chaclark83 on this one though. Try to find a torx bit that fits as tight as possible and you might have better luck than an allen bit.
 
Like mentioned before, get an impact wrench or a long breaker bar. Harbor Freight and most parts stores carry 3/4" drive Allen bits.

Another option is removing the entire hub. Jack the car up nice and high and turn the wheel inward so you can get to the caliper and bracket. If you don't have enough room to remove the caliper then just remove the caliper bracket bolts and disconnect the brake line. You'll also have to get to the axle nut, which would require you to break out the center cap. Then remove the 4 bolts holding the hub to the knuckle and yank the whole thing out. With the wheel still attached it should be easy to wiggle the hub out. Then you can either cut/grind/hammer the studs out and replace them, or buy a new hub assembly. Not the best method, but it would work.

If the hub is pretty old and has excessive play then it might be best to replace it. Just don't cheap out on the hubs. When dealing with parts stores, you want hubs that are pressed together not assembled. I bought the cheap Master Pro hubs (assembled) from Oreilly and both were trashed in just 1,000 miles of normal driving. I spent the extra $20 on their Precision (pressed) hubs and they have yet to give out.
 
Get the lugs pretty hot probably from a torch and just use a breaker bar and use some force.
 
What you guys aren't understanding is the outer walls appear to be contacting the wheel. Heat will do nothing but make the lugs expand even more and contact the wheel even stronger. Best bet is get something to bite the nuts without causing more expansion. Sometimes a torx bit will contact at the thicker part of the nut and break it loose without causing more expansion on the walls.
 
Thanks for the replies. Yes the lugs are touching the wheel itself. I mean, ive tried 1000 f/lbs from a air impact gun 1/2 drive. I already have purchased new studs and lug nuts so if I mess the studs up, its no big deal to me. I can't turn the rim because it is the REAR wheel on the exhaust side. I don't really care for the rims so much, I have another set that I just need to put tires on. but for now I just need to get these damn things loose. What about breaking the lug nuts with a air chisel?? What i'm talking about is like breaking them into pieces, or halves until the lug nut breaks apart. Good idea or no?

ALSO, I have broke my breaker bar using a cheater pipe, the breaker bar snapped... So I don't think a breaker bar with a longer cheater pipe is going to do it1 : (
 
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Air chisel won't work on the lugs, the lug pieces have no where to go, plus you'll never get the split all the way down the lug well. Use the air chisel or a torch on the wheel spokes and break the center out from the main wheel, then you can do what WES said. The wheel is already trashed and you have a replacement so take out your frustration on the offending object.
 
If you can, get the car on stands and remove the hub assembly. You can disassemble the caliper and other suspension parts from the inside, and can remove the hub from the front and unbolt the rear. Once off, you can air chisel the wheel stud backplate, and the studs should pop out.

Sounds insane, but I had to do this to a friends miata wheel.
 
Get a breaker bar, and put a 5 foot pole on the breaker bar. Mine were pretty seized on and an air gun wouldn't even take them off. This however did work.

Edit: sorry, I missed the post about the longer breaker bar being broken.
 
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If you don't care about the wheels, weld a regular lug nuts (or large bolts, with bolt heads away from wheel) to ones there and use tools on it to unscrew. This will prevent the tool from expanding the existing nuts further and jamming against the wheel. If you weld carefully enough the wheel should not be damaged all that much. This is a last-resort deal, would try a torx bit with larger cheater bar first.
 
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