Street Warrior S197 Mustang, 6-speed Manual Build

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

I know you will get that WOT lined out then I want to see some video. Turbo V-8's are awesome. My son has a 5.3 LS and an 88mm turbo going into an old 1976 Skylark SR and I can't wait to see what that is going to do. It will be a year before he gets that far so I will be following your progress and enthusiasm!

 

[CrackedDSM]

Thank you. I am currently tuning it on the factory ECU as I need a proper engine wiring harness built for my AEM ECU. The Ford Copperhead ECU is no joke tuning haha. Has like 14+ spark timing tables and a whole plethora of stuff waiting for you to screw up. Makes the DSM ECU seem like a lego toy in comparison. It's running great part throttle and idle...now dialing in the WOT. I have it on gate...3psi on pump gas so I have a little margin of error. as I figure it out

100% facts here. I have a similarly powerful ECU in the edge, and honestly I didn't even bother trying to learn it. I just paid a company for their tune and went. The amount of maps, inputs, and formulas it uses are straight ridiculous. Honestly if you could create an easy to use interface that would do all of it for you, you could make an absolutely KILLER standalone out of it to sell to other platforms. It's insane. The SD alone is an absolute marvel of engineering, and the fuel maps that auto adjust based on the slightest of inputs combats knock like a champ. The Edge practically tunes itself for whatever fuel it's running and whatever conditions are outside.

 

[diambo4life]

Yup. That's why I left my truck tuning to a professional. It runs perfect. Mustang, I want to learn and it's the main reason it will have a standalone.

 

[diambo4life]

Just want to update this. So, I have been tuning the Mustang on the stock ECU but I parked it about a couple months ago because it has some smoking going on during idle and decel so I will be doing the valve stem seals. Yes, I have been kicking myself everyday for not doing that when the heads were off when I did the valvesprings. Otherwise, car was running real good and was right around 700rwhp'ish per the Dragy run I did. I had it tuned on an E30 blend and 10-11psi boost max because I was maxxed on the 52lb/hr injectors that I borrowed from my truck. The FIC 2150ccs are back in it though (needed serviced) and they are dialed so whenever I get it back together (valvestem seals on this is quite the job, front cover has to come off and so do all the cams etc) I will tune it on E85 and turn the boost up. Should be nasty. Just dragging my feet on it at the moment taking it apart . I also put Magnaflow streets on it because it was just too freaking loud and popping and gargling everywhere with the Roush axleback mufflers I had before. My neighbors also don't have to kill me during those cold start idles.

 

[diambo4life]

I know it's Feb. The cold and just being a lazy ass, I haven't finished this or even started . I do have everything taken apart though. Viton valve stem seals were ordered and I just need to find some idle time to get them installed. i will need to replace my O2 sensors (factory widebands) and most likely, reinstall them at the stock locations. They were in the downpipe instead of the headers. Track is opening soon so need to get on it.

 

[diambo4life]

Been driving the car for about a week or so. Seals didn't fix the smoking issue so I am going to guess it's the guides in that 1 cylinder that are the problem. Been tuning it on full E85 and been making rips here and there. Will have it on the dyno to see where it's at on LOW (11psi) boost. Seen some low 7s so far in the 60-130 gingerly shifting it. Pic from a few days ago below....and a quick hit in 3rd. No traction of course .

 

[CrackedDSM]

Been driving the car for about a week or so. Seals didn't fix the smoking issue so I am going to guess it's the guides in that 1 cylinder that are the problem. Been tuning it on full E85 and been making rips here and there. Will have it on the dyno to see where it's at on LOW (11psi) boost. Seen some low 7s so far in the 60-130 gingerly shifting it. Pic from a few days ago below....and a quick hit in 3rd. No traction of course .

View attachment 728585

Just crazy.

 

[diambo4life]

Quick teaser....

 

[CrackedDSM]

How do you like that TruBoostX? I know it's a waste of money since my gauges all work fine, but I 100% want to swap my old AEM digital gauges, for all AEM X gauges. TruBoost X, X-series wideband, and etc.

 

[diambo4life]

Love it. It actually belongs to my Galant. I will be getting one from Sirch Labs most likely for the Mustang. https://sirhclabs.com/

I had planned to run AEM standalone to control everything but I have abandoned that idea....and may just have to work with the stock ECU and associated piggybacks for now.

I had the Mustang on the dyno last week. It put down 625rwhp without revving past 6k rpm because of some issue I had in the tune that is now rectified. That's on wastegate 11psi. It can rev to 8k rpm now.

BTW...keep in mind AEM was bought out by Holley. If your old gauges work...just hang onto them. I still have a very old AEM wideband in the Galant that works. I am glad the Coyotes use widebands stock so that's an unnecessary purchase for me.

 

[diambo4life]

Had it on the dyno last week for some preliminary pulls. On wastegate (10.x psi) and on a medium boost (14-15psi) pull (which was only pulled to 6k rpm) because of some issues with the tune. Still a good place to start.

 

[diambo4life]

Been slacking on this update. The news is, I hurt the car a few months ago tuning it on the street not too long after the dyno pulls. I turned the boost up and was trying to figure out the traction issue I was having. I finally got some skinnies and mounted them and the car was actually not skating around over 130mph. If you have been in a high HP rwd car with biasplys in the rear and full size radials in the front, you know what it does.... Anyway, I was still losing traction with the QTPs at 120mph+ in 4th gear so I lowered the pressure even lower and it seemed to be a little better. This was maybe at around 18-19psi which on a Coyote, is plenty of power. Unfortunately, during the pull, I pressurized the coolant system and limped the car home. It was running but obviously, choking in coolant. My exhaust had nothing but coolant in it . It was amazing the car even ran. So, I parked it due to the summer heat. It did do 6.2s 60-130 even though I lifted way early. It could be the head gaskets or worse case scenario, I cracked a sleeve which these Gen 1s are kinda known for when you push them north of that 900whp HP level. Either way, I am planning on installing the beefier GT500 block which is much stronger than all the Coyote blocks, probably run the GT500 head gaskets as well. I will not sleeve it since I don't intend to make more power than it can handle. The downside is, since it's a slightly bigger bore, I will need to get a new set of pistons and a new set of ARP head studs plus other little things. I will reuse the current connecting rods if they are not damaged. Anyway, that is the status on the Mustang! Oh, as I was taking the car apart, I found my plastic tubing vacuum lines for the wastegate (under the car on the driver side) were melted and fused to the exhaust. My theory is, it over-boosted. Ouch. So, I will keep this in mind while routing these lines in the future.

 

[diambo4life]

Engine out. Will dismember it by the end of the week.

 

[diambo4life]

Autopsy. I torched the block (cyl #2) for reasons yet to be determined. Peripheral casualties: I bent the rod from the water ingestion. Head was slightly scarred but easily fixable. I have hurt a 4G63 head way worse than that. This is the same cylinder I was having some oil burning issues from so I don't think it's a coincidence. All pistons were perfect and the rods from other cylinders looked in great shape.

 

[diambo4life]

My goal is to replace the head or have someone R&R it, then do a Predator block (from a 2020 GT500) which are much stronger and will not require any sleeving for my power goals. Everything with these cars is expensive so don't let anyone tell you making power with a V8 especially these is inexpensive. Me doing this myself will still cost more than $4500 for a short block and that is with me reusing my crank. I still want my reliable 4 digit HP, 9 second street car with AC/heat and all amenities...stick car that runs in the 4s in the 60-130.

 

[diambo4life]

The reconstruction begins. Hopefully this does not take me as long as the last time. Predator block has been ordered.
I will be running Mahle power packs. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mle-930258601#overview
I am still undecided on rods, but most likely run the Callies Compstars I ran prior. The good thing with Yotes, they all use the same rod. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cpi-c24105
I can't reuse my old pistons because the Predator block obviously has a bigger bore. I may sell those pistons or hang onto them in case I have a future project with a gen 1/2.

 

[diambo4life]

Additional parts I will need.
Oil piston jets. https://parts.levittownfordparts.com/oem-parts/ford-valve-assembly-aa5z6k868a
Gen 2 oil filter housing adapter. https://parts.levittownfordparts.com/oem-parts/ford-filter-adapter-fr3z6881k
ARP 12mm head studs (old block has 11mm head studs) https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...ndWo7d1yFWCLj71NQUwF_SmL1O_aiwXIaAhfnEALw_wcB

Shit adds up. I should be able to use my gen 1 oil pan and end plate which saves me from buying new OPGs. Will confirm. I will stick with the OEM mains and run Clevite or ACL bearings.

 

[CrackedDSM]

Crazy, man. Good to hear first hand insight though because according to the internet and all the commenter experts on social media/youtubes everyone has a 4 digit V8 and it's literally only ever cost them a pack a bubble gum and some loose change to get there.


Quick Coyote question for you, how much power does a simple Stage 2 S/C kit make for the truck Coyotes? There's a single cab F150 local to me with a Stage 2 S/C on a stock engine, curious what it puts down. He has the plate "Gapdju" so it's got me curious.

 

[diambo4life]

Errr...depends. "Stage 2" is rather vague. Depends on which blower it actually has, whether a fuel system has been done to enable more boost with a smaller pulley on E85. Technically, my old truck was a "Stage 2 Whipple" obviously pulley'd down, but it was a stock engine and trans setup, fuel system WITH a tune. It was a full weight crew cab too! So you can expect an RCSB setup similarly to be quicker by about a half a second if they are not dumb. Mine made 935whp (Dynojet) on 16psi btw.

 

[CrackedDSM]

Errr...depends. "Stage 2" is rather vague. Depends on which blower it actually has, whether a fuel system has been done to enable more boost with a smaller pulley on E85. Technically, my old truck was a "Stage 2 Whipple" obviously pulley'd down, but it was a stock engine and trans setup, fuel system WITH a tune. It was a full weight crew cab too! So you can expect an RCSB setup similarly to be quicker by about a half a second if they are not dumb. Mine made 924whp SAE (Dynojet) on 16psi btw.

Was a Stage 2 whipple, has the fuel system to support E85(1000cc injectors and etc).


So I'll guess it probably rips. Jesus Christ these coyotes are insane.


Edit: found the FS ad.

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[diambo4life]

Yeah, that could easily be a 9.6 truck. Has a good tuner too. Only thing is, it can't go any quicker "safely" without a built trans and built shortblock. If they put a short block in it, it can run bottom 9s. I was very impressed with my truck considering how little I had done to it. I just needed to catch good DA for it to click a 9.99. The last time I went to the track it was still over 3000DA when it ran a 10.29. Who knows, I may get one in the future again? It will be with twins though...but I would have to get rid of one of my toys.

 

[diambo4life]

So, from post #79, you can hear me complain about oil smoking from this car. So, I isolated the problem to cylinder #2, the same one that had the issue above. I inspected the ring pack and the cylinder carefully and I could not find any signs that the oil breach was coming from the bottom end. This confirmed my excellent leakdown results a few months ago. Everything was installed as it should. So, I replaced the valve stem seals with the head in the car (what a pain) and it didn't stop the smoking issue. My only guess here was bad guides. Sure enough, I remove the exhaust valves and they had quite a bit of play in them which I can 100% blame for the oil incursion into the cc. So, I will need to have some one R&R this head and replace the guides because that was such an annoying and embarrassing thing to have leaving James Bond smoke screens everywhere .

 

[diambo4life]

As you can see, everything looks nice and clean. I just wiped the oil off and it removed the carbon that was on top but cleaned up really nice without dipping or spraying them with anything.

 

[diambo4life]

Bare Predator block arrived the other day. Now, time to source internals.

 

[diambo4life]

Yikes....almost 6 months since last update. Yes, the car has been sitting since I have been working on the 2G mostly...then the cold ass winter months arrived. However, I ordered a used head from Ebay that I am currently transferring the valvetrain to. I also have Mahle powerpack pistons on order (currently on back order) and I also ordered a set of connecting rods. I went with the Molnar PWR ADDR plus rods. They are H-beam but from my legwork on these, they are more than plenty for what I plan to do with this car. So, I am slowly gathering parts. I will need to order 12mm ARP head studs, a Gen 2 coyote (Mustang) oil filter housing, and source some head gaskets. I may be doing Cometic MLXs this time around. I can't use the stock head gaskets because the Predator block has a bigger bore. Anyway, that is the plan. Will be reusing my oil pump setup, gen 1 coyote oil pump and pretty much everything else. I will be using the stock mains. I have Clevite H bearings for the mains and will do either the same for the rods or run Kings with the extra clearance. Once I have everything in, I will take it to the machine shop for balancing then assemble it. Assuming the pistons don't take too long to come in, let's set July 30th as the timeline for engine start.