Stock fuel pump replacement

[3aG1e_7a1oN]

Hi, I am not planning on modding out this car too much, maybe just intake, so I decided against purchasing the Walbro. I plan on purchasing the stock replacement from partstrain, however, it only comes with the pump and the strainer. What else do I need to get with it to make it work?

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[r1991_4g63t]

just that

 

[shawnmr]

be careful not to break the neck on the assembly like i did,hard to find a replacement

 

[3aG1e_7a1oN]

Also, I am going to rewire the pump. I see how to do it, but what is that other wire (black and yellow) right at the fuel pump. Gas gauge?

 

[sleeping95gsx]

yes, there isnt a swivel fitting up there so you might want to check out underneath the car for other fittings. Check out vfaq.com they explain how to rewire the walbro

 

[sleeping95gsx]

will you be running a regulator or any other fuel upgrades? forgot to ask in last post

 

[z24frank]

When do you actually need to upgrade?and when do you do a 255 vs a 190?

 

[blcknspo0ln]

When do you actually need to upgrade?and when do you do a 255 vs a 190?

This is a matter of speculation. One might really only notice if you have a program or logger capable of telling you your injector duty cycle (and true AFR). At the point of maxing out any one item on the fuel system, you'll notice your IDC go very high (past 90%) or your AFR's stay lean no matter what you do. Either fuel pump will require an AFPR (adjustable fuel pressure regulator) to maximize it's benefit.

 

[z24frank]

Ok so when is this upgrade usually done?After a intake and bigger injectors ie?

 

[3aG1e_7a1oN]

Wait maybe I missed something, but what is the point of rewiring the fuel pump if you still use the stock wires to the MPI relay? What does the replacement relay even do then... Because I thought the point of rewiring it was if there was a cut wire between the MPI and fuel pump, but VFAQ says nothing of replacing that wire, so what is the point of just adding a relay and giving it power?

 

[Splitpi]

Wait maybe I missed something, but what is the point of rewiring the fuel pump if you still use the stock wires to the MPI relay? What does the replacement relay even do then... Because I thought the point of rewiring it was if there was a cut wire between the MPI and fuel pump, but VFAQ says nothing of replacing that wire, so what is the point of just adding a relay and giving it power?

The relay lines don't carry the current, the rewire... wires do. The current on the relay lines is small in comparison.

 

[3aG1e_7a1oN]

Yeah but if I have a cut wire somewhere between my pump and MPI relay should I just run a new wire to it from the new relay?

 

[Splitpi]

Yeah but if I have a cut wire somewhere between my pump and MPI relay should I just run a new wire to it from the new relay?

I don't follow. You still need the original line to trigger the new relay to turn on/off. This line doesn't supply the current however that runs the pump, the new wires do.

 

[3aG1e_7a1oN]

When I tried to use the test connector, and I touched the wire to the positive terminal on the battery, it sparked several times. What's the deal with that?

 

[crimsondragon]

Why are you touching things? Especially to the postive of the battery? Are you just asking for a fuse to blow out?

 

[3aG1e_7a1oN]

I was tring to test my fuel pump.



I used the fuel pump test connector to try and jump the fuel pump, and instead of jumping it, it just made it spark. I want to know the significance of the spark is.

Or is it supposed to spark when you jump the pump, either way I had no power to it, I was just curious if it meant anything.

 

[r1991_4g63t]

I was tring to test my fuel pump.



I used the fuel pump test connector to try and jump the fuel pump, and instead of jumping it, it just made it spark. I want to know the significance of the spark is.

Or is it supposed to spark when you jump the pump, either way I had no power to it, I was just curious if it meant anything.

ive honestly never looked at that connector on my car are there two wires? if so i'd imagine you'd jump those instead of one to the battery, ### if there are two you are probably jumping the ground resulting in your spark

 

[C3L1CA]

People do the re-wire to keep a steady voltage at the fuel pump, as the fuel pump tends to see less voltage as the car is running and you're making boost. You want a nice voltage going to your fuel pump.

Visual Frequently Answered Questions - Home Page

Same basic idea on a awd.

How I re-wired my fuel pump on my 95:
Red power wire runs from the battery and goes to pin 30.

Found a place to mount a new ground. Ran the new wire you just grounded to the all black wire coming from the fuel pump, which leaves one end of the black wire cut (which is fine). Then made one more wire to connect those two wires to pin 85 on the relay.

Black/Blue wire with silver dots also needs to be cut and spliced into the really. You connect this wire coming from the fuel pump to pin 87 and the wire coming from the harness to pin 86.

Cliffs:

Pin 30 - Power (red)
Pin 85 - Ground wires
Pin 86 - Black/Blue wire with sliver spots coming from the cars wiring harness
Pin 87 - Black/Blue wire with silver spots coming from the fuel pump

 

[Splitpi]

How about wiring and the install of a Evo fuel pump on my 1g?Is it a much better fuel pump?

Yes

But on both pumps there flow is directly tied to voltage. Increase the voltage, increase the flow amount. Stock wiring is 14 gauge wire. When you do the rewire, you replace it with 10 gauge wire.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/275785-fuel-pump-rewire-alternative.html#post151333359

10 Gauge wire will loose ~1.3 to 2% due to wire resistance. 14 gauge will loose ~3.4 to 5% due to wire resistance.

So you can see as much as a 1 volt drop at the end of the 14 gauge wire.... rated to 15 AMP max. 10 gauge can handle 30 AMPs.

To the OP:
I still don't follow what you are doing. Either your shorting it or you are arching it. I would be very careful but either is a very good way to ruin electronics... and dangerous around gasoline. A much better solution is a $5 multimeter.

 

[3aG1e_7a1oN]

ive honestly never looked at that connector on my car are there two wires? if so i'd imagine you'd jump those instead of one to the battery, ### if there are two you are probably jumping the ground resulting in your spark

Yeah but then I cut the stock wire at my pump (I was going to rewire it anyways) and ran that straight to the battery, just the black and white wire which is the power to the pump, touched it to the battery and still got that spark.

 

[Splitpi]

Yeah but then I cut the stock wire at my pump (I was going to rewire it anyways) and ran that straight to the battery, just the black and white wire which is the power to the pump, touched it to the battery and still got that spark.

I have no idea what you are doing. You cut the stock line and ran it back to batter? You are shorting the line.... thats a big no-no.

You run ONE new line from the battery + (positive terminal) through the firewall all the way back to the fuel Pump.

You then cut the Negative stock line at the plug that connects to the fuel pump. You solder (always solder your connections and NEVER use wire nuts) a new ground wire AND a new pigtail that will connect to the new Relay's Ground. Like in these photos:

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Tape this up good so there are no bare wires.


Now Cut the Positice stock line at the plug that connects to the fuel pump. Attach clips (and solder them on) to both ends that you just cut (plug side and stock wire side). See this picture:

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Connect a clip (and solder it) to the end of the NEW 10 gauge wire. Then wire it into the new 30 AMP relay. The NEW 10 guage wire goes onto contact 87 of the relay. The stock POSITIVE wire (not the fuel pump side) goes into contact 86 of the relay. The connector from the POSITIVE wire (on the fuel pump connector) goes into contact 30/51 on the relay. The ground wire goes into connector 85 on the relay. See these photos:

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I lifted the photos from a great website that details what to do. 2G DSM FWD Fuel Pump Rewire Instructions

 

[3aG1e_7a1oN]

Has anyone got the 1g fuel pump line off without access to flare nut wrenches? I'm about to break the stupid bi*** off.