This is a tech article showing you how "I" installed the STM ABS delete kit on my 2gb TSi AWD. Please attempt this at your own risk as I will not be held liable for damage to anyone or anything. The braking system on any vehicle is extremely important and must be functioning properly before driving on any roads. Understand your braking system and do not attempt to install this product yourself if you are not 100% confident in your abilities. I am in no way affiliated with Street Tuned Motorsports.
Now that the boring stuff is out of the way lets get our hands dirty! I picked this unit up used from a member on here and started by removing my old ABS braking system. I pulled the stock proportioning valve and all the front brake lines, ABS control unit, and the front rubber lines that connect to your calipers. DO NOT remove your rear braking lines as they will be reused with this kit (they are the top two lines connecting to your proportioning valve). Also, be sure to save all of your stock clamps as I reused them for my install.
The new proportioning valve has six holes in it, when bolted to the firewall the top two will be for the rear brake lines, the middle two are for the front brake lines, and the bottom two go to the master cylinder. No need to worry about which line goes where on the master cylinder as all of the valving is done in the prop valve (our cars braking system proportioned left/right and not front/back).
** left and right will be the cars left and right NOT the left and right when looking at the prop valve **
You can see in the first picture below I have installed the new prop valve and attached all the lines. These lines DO NOT require any sealant of any kind, get them good and snug and they wont leak (Mine had lock-tight on the threads when I got it and this was causing the flare nuts to not seat properly).
In the second picture you can see how I routed all the lines. The longer of the 2 master cylinder lines will go on the right side of the prop valve. I routed this upward and clamped it down with the prop valve bolt because routing it down interfered with my stock fuel filter.
The third picture shows how I chose to route this master cylinder line with the fuel return hard line.
The fourth picture is where the same line goes over the top of the master cylinder and in front of the brake booster.
The fifth shows them attached to the master cylinder.
The sixth is a picture of the general routing of the lines. I reused the stock clamps and you can see in some cases I had to put a few wraps of electrical tape to make sure it was a snug fit. I also have a full stainless clutch line that I chose to run with the brake lines.
The other pictures are to show you how I chose to route all of the lines and miscellaneous shots that I felt were of value to this write-up. I have not included how to run the lines once they have entered the wheel wells as that will depend on your caliper setup.
My car is a 97 TSi AWD wihtout AC, relocated battery, and a 6-bolt swap. Please feel free to PM me with any questions and I will do my best to help out.
Now that the boring stuff is out of the way lets get our hands dirty! I picked this unit up used from a member on here and started by removing my old ABS braking system. I pulled the stock proportioning valve and all the front brake lines, ABS control unit, and the front rubber lines that connect to your calipers. DO NOT remove your rear braking lines as they will be reused with this kit (they are the top two lines connecting to your proportioning valve). Also, be sure to save all of your stock clamps as I reused them for my install.
The new proportioning valve has six holes in it, when bolted to the firewall the top two will be for the rear brake lines, the middle two are for the front brake lines, and the bottom two go to the master cylinder. No need to worry about which line goes where on the master cylinder as all of the valving is done in the prop valve (our cars braking system proportioned left/right and not front/back).
** left and right will be the cars left and right NOT the left and right when looking at the prop valve **
You can see in the first picture below I have installed the new prop valve and attached all the lines. These lines DO NOT require any sealant of any kind, get them good and snug and they wont leak (Mine had lock-tight on the threads when I got it and this was causing the flare nuts to not seat properly).
In the second picture you can see how I routed all the lines. The longer of the 2 master cylinder lines will go on the right side of the prop valve. I routed this upward and clamped it down with the prop valve bolt because routing it down interfered with my stock fuel filter.
The third picture shows how I chose to route this master cylinder line with the fuel return hard line.
The fourth picture is where the same line goes over the top of the master cylinder and in front of the brake booster.
The fifth shows them attached to the master cylinder.
The sixth is a picture of the general routing of the lines. I reused the stock clamps and you can see in some cases I had to put a few wraps of electrical tape to make sure it was a snug fit. I also have a full stainless clutch line that I chose to run with the brake lines.
The other pictures are to show you how I chose to route all of the lines and miscellaneous shots that I felt were of value to this write-up. I have not included how to run the lines once they have entered the wheel wells as that will depend on your caliper setup.
My car is a 97 TSi AWD wihtout AC, relocated battery, and a 6-bolt swap. Please feel free to PM me with any questions and I will do my best to help out.
