So I had my alignment checked on my 2g. It is on Eibach Prolines and here are the results
front -1.6 on both sides
rear -2.6 on the left and -2.9 on the right
I decided to get the SPC extreme adjustable rear camber kit because it allows up to 3 degrees of adjustment. I could have done the home depot mod but that was going to be a lot of washers.
The installation of this kit was pretty straight forward. You get two brackets per side, 4 bolts and 4 spacers. If you only need -.75 to 2 degrees of adjustment you resuse the stock bolts and do not use the spacers. If you need 2-3 degrees you must use the supplied bolts and spacers.
Of course you need to jack up the car. Two hydrolic floor jacks and a set of jack stands are a great investment.
The first thing I started with was spraying the bolts with PB blast just to make things easy on myself
The large single bolt is torqued to about 71 ft/lbs so a breaker bar may be necessary. The 4 smaller ones should only have about 28 ft/lbs.
Next you must remove the OEM brackets that attach the upper control arm to the frame.
Again PB blast comes in useful as these should have a torque of 41 ft/lbs.
When you reinstall the control arm you can torque down the brackets to the frame but you must load the suspension before you torque anything else. The cam surfaces of the bracket when tightened will rotate bringing the arm out or in until it is torqued.
Like I said not a lot to it. Time, a vice, some PB blast, breaker bar, torque wrench, and assorted common sockets are all that it takes. First thing after installation is to take it to an alignment shop that will adjust the cams for you.
front -1.6 on both sides
rear -2.6 on the left and -2.9 on the right
I decided to get the SPC extreme adjustable rear camber kit because it allows up to 3 degrees of adjustment. I could have done the home depot mod but that was going to be a lot of washers.
The installation of this kit was pretty straight forward. You get two brackets per side, 4 bolts and 4 spacers. If you only need -.75 to 2 degrees of adjustment you resuse the stock bolts and do not use the spacers. If you need 2-3 degrees you must use the supplied bolts and spacers.
Of course you need to jack up the car. Two hydrolic floor jacks and a set of jack stands are a great investment.
The first thing I started with was spraying the bolts with PB blast just to make things easy on myself
The large single bolt is torqued to about 71 ft/lbs so a breaker bar may be necessary. The 4 smaller ones should only have about 28 ft/lbs.
Next you must remove the OEM brackets that attach the upper control arm to the frame.
Again PB blast comes in useful as these should have a torque of 41 ft/lbs.
When you reinstall the control arm you can torque down the brackets to the frame but you must load the suspension before you torque anything else. The cam surfaces of the bracket when tightened will rotate bringing the arm out or in until it is torqued.
Like I said not a lot to it. Time, a vice, some PB blast, breaker bar, torque wrench, and assorted common sockets are all that it takes. First thing after installation is to take it to an alignment shop that will adjust the cams for you.
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