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starting problems , any ideas ?

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dsm4life

20+ Year Contributor
1,323
3
Sep 24, 2002
Philadelphia, Pennsylvania
Ok sometimes when i go to start my car all it does is go , click click click then sometimes starts up. It use to click like 4-5 time then start now it takes a few mins to start. I tried new battery , and just put in starter today still same problem, any ideas ? :confused:
 
didnt do compression test but the car runs strong as hell once its running. I just did some logs tonight as a matter of fact. Its just starting.
 
well i did more research and i think i found my problem. a leaking start relay. Here is the pic , the bad part ? i just spend 2 hrs replacing the starter and there is no F@#$@$ way that thing is coming back out.
 

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does anyone know what this relay is called ? printed on it is this : MB398020 12V NC
OMRON 20Z4DK
 
hah i got it 1
MB398020
RELAY GROW PLUG

amaszing how much you get done when you put work into it. LOL
 
yeah people please dont buy this grow plug. I got it in the mail the other day its says Power sterring relay !!!!!!!!!!!!! If im having a starting problem and i explained that on phone what f@#$@@$@$@#$ you mother @@$@#$@$@$@#$ why would you send me out a Steering wheel lock relay ! :mad:
 
well i need to bump. Ok i went out to mistu and got a new ign switch and also new battery terminals. It still isnt working. Sometimes like i said it fires right up other time i goto start it , all the lights come on fine when when i go to turn it over the car goes "click" i try again "click" sometimes it does it 3 times and starts some times 100 times then starts. Any suggestions ? Im going to stick my head under there again later if i get a chance. JUST WORK ! :cry:
 
Relays can't leak, if they do there is one that they forgot to teach us about at school. The substance on there should be a moisture barrier.
I don't know the pin layout, but you can throw 12v on it and it should click. Use a multi meter to measure and find which one is the coil. It is a mechanical connection and could be dirty inside or have a shoddy coil.
Is there another relay you could borrow to check w/ (horn fogs....)?
 
If it's not your battery, starter relay, or starter, another possibility is poor cable connections from the battery to the starter. I'm talking the big cables. The ends can get corroded, dirty, not tight, or partially broken (inside) where the cable meets the terminal. If there is even 0.1 ohm resistance in the path from battery to starter, it will drop so much voltage when you crank that there won't be enough voltage left on the starter (needs to be more than 8 volts at the starter). Remove and clean both ends of these cables and battery posts and secure tightly. Do both the battery positive to the starter and battery negative to engine (connection to engine must also be clean/tight). Also try wiggling them to check for breaks. After doing this if you measure the voltage across the starter itself while cranking and it's less than across the battery posts themselves (while cranking), one of the cables is your problem and needs to be replaced. You can measure the voltage drop across each cable while cranking to find out which - should be close to zero. Or you can connect a jumper cable from battery negative to engine block. If it now cranks your negative cable/connection is bad.
 
well what i did was call pep-boys up and told the guy my problem and that i just got a starter from him. He said "well.... a lot of our starters come back , i have one in the shop right now getting replaced." great that made me feel good. The car again wouldnt start for like 10 mins !!!! i was :mad: . i got home pissed and jumped right in. I ripped the starter out like a animal. Took EVERYTHING apart. battery , tray , upper ic pipe, heater hoses all other hoses and senors to get to the mother f@#$@$ thing. Anyone who has changed one of these out knows its not a fun job. Ok now im working at night. The starter is out, i call pep-boys tell them im coming up to get it replaced , he said well i have to test it first, if it passes i will not replace it. (oh yeah watch ya). I get there they test it. It passes , to make a long story short its replaced with another one that also was tested before i left. I also went to homedepot and got 4 guage wire and o-rings. Then i also bought a new battery and a Mt. Dew (i needed that). Got home at night mind you. pulled the hanging lights down and started. I replaced the ground to the neg to body, also neg to the starter bolt. Also cut the end of the starter wire and replced the terminal, also replaced the neg terminal. New battery in , new starter in. So far i started it 3 times without any problem. PLEASE !!! let that have been the problem . LOL. If not , i will trade her in for a case of Bud ICE :thumb:
 
ok i did that new battery , starter , grounds. Still had the problem today but check this out . When i leave the car it seems like if the leave the face in the radio it has a problem starting but when i detact the face then cme back it firsts right up. Im thinking maybe its wiring wrong and it drawing power from the battery ? is that a long shot
 
ok guys it still did it this morning faceplate off all night. What else can i try ???? maybe alternator ?? this is costign my ALOT OF MONEY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :cry:
 
guys please help. I got a vid of it. Tell me what you think. Im dont know where to do from here and i dont want to goto satan

http://home.comcast.net/~phillydsm/carclank.MOV

this is my trying to crank it over and over again. Like i said before sometimes it goes over faster then others. things replace

battery
starter (twice)
ground cables
terminal connectors
ing switch
 
I had a similar problem, get in the car, turn the key, everything electrical comes on but the car won't turn over. Replaced the starter, ignition switch, new battery, cleaned the battery posts, etc. Now, I'm not sure exactly what "fixed" the problem, because I tried two things at once. First, I added another wire from the harness to the starter solenoid. The wire to the solenoid connects to the harness somewhere under the thermostat housing (black connector, black yellow striped wire going to the solenoid. I soldered the wire at the harness and ran it along the stock wire all the way to the solenoid. Then, I replaced the starter relay. It's above the fuse panel on the driver's side, and I had to remove the lower kick panel to access it. Since then the car has started each and every time, no guesswork or finger crossing hoping the car would start. The part number of the relay I replaced is MB629080.
 
I got a pack of Bud Ice that Im willing to trade :D Maybe Ill come up this week to take a look at it if you want. Maybe there might be something Ill notice that you have just skipped. Figured its worth a shot. PM me.

SpendOne
Black Primered 1g ;)
 
Have someone turn the key while you are under the hood.
What is the voltage (use multimeter) on the battery while you are cranking?
What is the voltage on the battery while you just get the click, click, click?
Where does the click, click sound like it's coming from (starter, behind dash, xxx)?
 
im going to give the relay a try seems easy enough. Man i just been putting so much money out on this stupid problem grr :mad:
 
im going to check in that tomorrow it just started to rain. My service book says the relay in mounted under the radio not over the fuse panel ?? There arent two are there ?
 
dsm4life said:
im going to check in that tomorrow it just started to rain. My service book says the relay in mounted under the radio not over the fuse panel ?? There arent two are there ?

I think the factory alarm has a separate relay in the location I described. Whether or not you have a factory alarm, I think it's worth a try to replace the relay (if there's one there).
 
RamenPride said:
I think the factory alarm has a separate relay in the location I described. Whether or not you have a factory alarm, I think it's worth a try to replace the relay (if there's one there).

is that the sound that you were getting also ?? (in my video)
 
I have this problem every so often, I've replaced the alternator, battery, and starter all of which tested bad (except for the alternator but the brush was worn). I'm thinking it's something as simple as the positive terminal not getting a good connection.

Right now though I'm having another problem of my car starting in the morning and it starting at 800-900rpms and staying there even with the operating temperature rising. Usually when you start the car the rpms will go to around 2.5-3k and gradually fall in the span of five seconds and stay around 1-1.2k until it warms up. I'm thinking it might be my tps but right now as long as it runs I don't want to worry about it.
 
well when i first started this thread before hand i did a search and when i did i found ALOT of other people have had this same problem. Thats why im trying to list all info steps that i did and will list when i find the problem so no one else has to go through this crap. It sucks when people find the solution but dont post it. Thats how all the thread looked that i was finding. They went back and forth then just dropped off. Dont worry Mr. Talon you may have won this little battle so far but I WILL WIN THE WAR BABY !
 
dsm4life said:
is that the sound that you were getting also ?? (in my video)

the only clicking I heard from the inside was the power locks locking and unlocking. under the hood you could hear a click as if the starter motor gear was engaging, but not rotating. Do you have the clutch start switch disabled? If not, it may be a bad connection there or a broken switch. You might also want to try disabling it by unplugging the connector to see if that fixes it.
 
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