starting problems , any ideas ?

[dsm4life]

Ok sometimes when i go to start my car all it does is go , click click click then sometimes starts up. It use to click like 4-5 time then start now it takes a few mins to start. I tried new battery , and just put in starter today still same problem, any ideas ?

 

[dsm4life]

did that already

 

[dsm4life]

I had a similar problem, get in the car, turn the key, everything electrical comes on but the car won't turn over. Replaced the starter, ignition switch, new battery, cleaned the battery posts, etc. Now, I'm not sure exactly what "fixed" the problem, because I tried two things at once. First, I added another wire from the harness to the starter solenoid. The wire to the solenoid connects to the harness somewhere under the thermostat housing (black connector, black yellow striped wire going to the solenoid. I soldered the wire at the harness and ran it along the stock wire all the way to the solenoid. Then, I replaced the starter relay. It's above the fuse panel on the driver's side, and I had to remove the lower kick panel to access it. Since then the car has started each and every time, no guesswork or finger crossing hoping the car would start. The part number of the relay I replaced is MB629080.

i have mistu look that part number up and it was som off the wall relay. Are you sure thats the number ? well i'm thinking that it cannot be the starter relay because the relay in under the radio. Its protcted from the elements in the air in such so i cant see it being the problem. I will lean more towards the start soleniod and investigate from there

 

[RamenPride]

i have mistu look that part number up and it was som off the wall relay. Are you sure thats the number ? well i'm thinking that it cannot be the starter relay because the relay in under the radio. Its protcted from the elements in the air in such so i cant see it being the problem. I will lean more towards the start soleniod and investigate from there

yup, the part number/description says "Relay, Starter" I ordered it off of Conicelli's website and it was under the "anti-theft components" subsection. you can see for yourself on this website (layout is the same as Conicelli's was)

 

[dsm4life]

i will search more on the net because the guy said it was something totally not related to my problem. I asked if he could search by "starter relay" and he says no. Now i dont work at these places or use their systems but i find it VERY hard to beileve you can't search for a part by name. I mean it might not give you what you want all the time but if you search for "Starter relay" come on how far off could the system be ?? unless programmed by a 2 yr old using VB. new local mistu dealer (cause concelli is no more) so far :thumbdown

 

[dsm4life]

well i got stranded again and miss another class (which i might get kicked out for now) :thumbdown . Anyway while i was on the side of the road for an hr i looked up the hood and saw these wires that were exposed. Now they were orginall taped up but i untaped them to trace back the little black-yellow ground wire to see if that wire was cut. Now when i did this is showed the wires exposed. Here i took some picture. Now mind you there was a motor swap done here to a GSX maybe this was needed for the swap i am now sure or could it be my problem ??? I took them with my camera phone cause i didnt have dig cam letme know if you guys can see from here or i have to take more pics with dig cam (its raining outside right now so i cant now)

p.s

these wires are located right under my catch can. As in the last picture you can see i traced the harnesss so yuo can see where it goes.

 

[RamenPride]

well i got stranded again and miss another class (which i might get kicked out for now) :thumbdown . Anyway while i was on the side of the road for an hr i looked up the hood and saw these wires that were exposed. Now they were orginall taped up but i untaped them to trace back the little black-yellow ground wire to see if that wire was cut. Now when i did this is showed the wires exposed. Here i took some picture. Now mind you there was a motor swap done here to a GSX maybe this was needed for the swap i am now sure or could it be my problem ??? I took them with my camera phone cause i didnt have dig cam letme know if you guys can see from here or i have to take more pics with dig cam (its raining outside right now so i cant now)

when I had the problem I blocked traffic for about 30 minutes when I stalled the car, was late for work several times, and got stuck in many parking lots (sometimes for as long as an hour...). sucks big time, so I know how it feels

anyway, where that exposed wire is, my harness looks the same. that wire was just sitting there like in the pic and didn't really lead to anything. the black and yellow wire goes to the starter solenoid. it connects to the harness at that connector in the pic.

 

[spendone]

I know there was a point where I couldnt satrt my car at one point. One of the wires in the thermostat housing broke off.

 

[dsm4life]

you might be talking about the black and yellow wire behind thermostat , i checked that its fine. I also dissconnected my clutch saftly kill switch button. After that so far i havent had a problem but im sure it cant be that easy.

 

[dsm4life]

car is going somewhere tomorrow. Not sure if going to local guy or mistu. Im pissed ! it wouldnt let me go out last night

 

[dsm4life]

nope didnt take it anywhere. I got a mutli meter and the power of 12V is getting to the starter. I also heard there is a wire that runs to the starts that is dead but when cracnk or key is put in that wire needs 12V. I cannot find this wire. There are only two wires goign to the starter motor. Ones is power. Then the black and yellow wire. Im guessing its a ground wire right.

 

[xaosgst]

I will put money down that your problem is related to the wiring leading to the starter.

I had the exact problem on a much older car along with many other issues.

Turn the key and click click. jiggle the leads to and from the starter and WHAM it started.


You probably don't want to hear this but the easiest way to test the setup is with the starter off the car but you can manage with it still in.

Remove the heavy gauge (+) lead that goes from the starter to the battery. Use standard jumper cables or another heavy gauge wire to bypass stocker. Use a Heavy guage with solid connectors on both ends. The small wire is the switch from the ignition (+12v). Turn the key and see if you get it to engage.

More then likely since you are hearing the solenoid in the starter click your ign lead is working but to test this you just need to run 12v(+) to it to have it kick the starter in the ass. If the terminals are close enough together on the back of the starter you can just short them with a screwdriver and the starter should go.

AGain this is all much easier with it out of the car. Run jumper cables from the (+) terminal of the battery to hte starter. Lie the starter on the block so it is grounded (doesn't always have a dedicated ground lead and uses the block as its ground). jump in a wire for the switch and you should see the pinion pop out and start spinning.

 

[dsm4life]

i dont know if i am fully understanding you. I understand running the new pwr wire the starter but what is the point of the "jump" wire ? The starter cannot be the problem i am on my 3rd "new" starter (if that is what we are testing here).

 

[RamenPride]

There are only two wires goign to the starter motor. Ones is power. Then the black and yellow wire. Im guessing its a ground wire right.

there are actually three (sort of). the ground wire goes directly from the negative terminal of battery to one of the mounting bolts. there is another thick wire that goes directly from the positive terminal of the battery to the solenoid, and is attatched by a 12mm(?) nut. the third wire is much thinner than the other two and clips to top of the starter solenoid. this wire is black with a yellow stripe. I believe it is 12V from the ignition switch. I think what happens is that solenoid gets a signal from the ignition switch via the black/yellow wire and extends the pinion gear. what also happens (I think) is this completes another circuit cranks the starter over. the voltage for this comes directly from the battery. Again, I'm not 100% positive, but if you look in a repair manual it tells you how to test the starter out of the car.

 

[turbotsi92]

This maybe a long shot, but try to rock the car when you try to start it. My buddy had a beretta, and a few teeth broke off of his flywheel, so in some places it would not catch. I don't think this is you problem because you starter is not turing over, but something to think about.

 

[huafist]

Just to be sure, pull the starter and bench test it. It's not hard to get the started out once you're used to it. Pull the battery and battery tray and you get get right to it. It sounds like A) Solenoid going
or
B) Faulty wiring to starter

Bench test it by attaching a set of jumper cables to the starter. Ground to the frame, positive to the hot terminal on the starter. Use a BIG screwdriver to bridge the hot terminal with the solenoid terminal. It should extend and spin.

If the starter bench tests fine, pull ALL of the wiring from the batt to the starter and re-insulate it.
FWIW, there are 3 wires that attach to the starter: Power, solenoid power, and a ground that attaches to one of the mounting bolts.

 

[dsm4life]

guys bench testing the starter is not my problem here. I am on my new 2nd starter , this one was tested twice before i put it in. The power wire and the black and yellow are the only wires that i didnt not replace. I already did the Starter ground cable, new battery,ign switch and like i said 2 starters. The starter is getting 12V (tested with meter) The only other guess i have is that black and yellow wire. I might try and get that next i am just beyond frustrated on this STUPUD - NON PERFORMACE - TIME CONSUMING - WASTE OF ALL MY DAYS OFF WORK PROBLEM !!

 

[elements]

Anyone have a link to help me replace my starter?

Thanks

 

[dsm4life]

Anyone have a link to help me replace my starter?

Thanks

Its in the chiltons but since i know it so well.
this is what i did.
removed upper IC pipe and battery for room
Also disconnect the heater rubber line just for more room , some fluid comes out just point it up and tie it.

Then follow the thick guage wiring come from the + ternimal down to the starter. Or even better follow the - thick guage wire to the grounded bolt (under throttle body area). That is the first bolt you need to remove. Then the other bolt in to the right of that .Breaker bar comes in handy here. After that slide the starter towards the driver side wheel. Then take a break cause then you have the pull the starter over to you which takes forever trying to wiggle that thing back up to you. After that just remove pwr bolt slide off blk /yellow strip wire and do this all again in reverse.

Start early so you dont run out of sun light and buy some Mt. Dew to keep you running

 

[gaddis]

I'm having the exact same problem. Yesterday the problem developed that the car would really struggle to start. Now, when I try to start it, I just hear a whirring noise. Just took the starter out and I'm going to test it. There are only a limited number of possible problems.

A) The starter is not spinning. The whirring noise makes me think it is.

B) The solenoid is not pushing the pinion out to engage the flywheel.

C) An electrical problem is preventing the starter or the solenoid from being engaged.


I'll post again in awhile after I test my starter, and the new one I bought in case the starter is busted.


Yeah, this problem really ####in sucks.

dsm4life I feel your pain!

 

[gaddis]

I found my problem. When I apply 12V to the contact on the old starter where the small wire connects, nothing happens. When I do the same to the new starter, the pinion moves to the engage position.

DSM4life, have you checked to see if you have voltage at the small wire? If not your new starter won't engage even though it works.

Hope this helps.


Very happy my problem is solved!

 

[stjoetalon]

I am having the same problem. I have a switch run from the pos. side of the battery to the hot side of the starter silanoid for now. It is ghetto, but it works until I can find the cure. I will not go with the push button starter.

Its as if the starter isnt getting the signal to engage. I dont know if its the starter relay or the ignition switch. Im going to start with the relay. Ill let you know.

 

[huafist]

You can test to see if you're getting fire to the solenoid power wire using a multimeter and a friend. Run a wire from the solenoid power up where you can get to it. Attach that wire to a multimeter with an alligator clip or similar. Ground the other side of the multimeter accordingly. Turn it to DC voltage. When your buddy (or you) attempts to start the car, you should measure 12V on the multimeter. if not, then you have either
A) faulty wiring,
or
B) Corroded battery contacts.

If you DO get voltage but the solenoid doesn't extend, then your solenoid has shot it's wad.

 

[dsm4life]

after all that money spent , it was a bad turbo timer, so G@Y :thumbdown

 

[RamenPride]

after all that money spent , it was a bad turbo timer, so G@Y :thumbdown

Hmm...... now that you mention it, the first thing I did when I had starting problems was to take off the turbo timer...

Which turbo timer did you have in there?