Starting issues - No / Doesn't / Won't Start - MERGED

[prodsm]

All "my car won't start" discussion threads are merged HERE. We've basically made it easier for those who insist upon not searching by grouping together all threads from those with similar issues so you can just scroll through and see some possible solutions. To search for info within this thread, use the "Search This Thread" feature in the black bar about 3" above what you're reading right now.

Could be anything from a loose battery terminal to internal engine damage, and literally everything in between which may involve the electrical, fuel, and ignition system...possibly even something that you screwed up while working on the car yourself. While it's unlikely we're going to diagnose and solve your problem over the internet, feel free to discuss any possible solutions.



I live in Canada and right now its not very warm out, about -30c
my car does not have a block heater too keep it warm.

I tryed to start my car this morning and it wouldent start, ive had this problem before but this time, the car doesnt crank at all it just makes a sound that sounds like an electric drill.

Whats wrong.

Thanks

 

[flat four]

Your pics aren't much help. Your crank is like 14 ° btdc and you cam gears are at least one whole revolution off. There are marks on each cam gear that should align horizontally (on the inside of the gears, or better worded in between them where the timing belt spans across the top, hope that makes sense, ) with the dowel pins at 12 o clock with the crank pulley on the TDC mark. You may have to rotate the crank a few revolutions to line everything up.

But yeah my guess is your valves are bent.

 

[evileagleawd]

Line the crank up with the zero mark on the timeing belt cover. Also make sure the cam dowls are pointing up. If you are a little confused where top dead center is. Remove spark plug out of cylinder number #1. Install a long screw driver and turn engine over by hand till #1 is to its highest point. Still make sure your cams dowls are pointing up. If everything does not line up your timeing belt skipt timing. Most likely bent the valves. You said you have zero compression on all 4 cylinders your valves are probably bent. Maybe someone stole your pistons......you never know. Im just jokeing.

 

[Domaranel]

Thanks, I will check fuel line next. We changed the fuel pump and auto shut off relays and now it will start, rev to 2000 rpms and then die. If you step on the gas pedal it doesn't help. It's also making a loud clicking sound as it's dieing, sounds like clicking is coming from relays? Does that still sound like a fuel problem you think?

 

[PrimerPLus]

Fouled plugs, bad plug wires? You changed the fuel pump and now it starts? Can't be sure of the noise can you post a video?

 

[Domaranel]

After we replaced the relays it starts, but dies seconds later. You can smell fuel and hear the fuel pump come on, but I will double check fuel line today

Vid is a really good idea, I will post one tonight, thanks

Car is getting fuel and we tested the spark plugs and it's getting spark. Husband says loud clicking is auto shut off relay. When the relay clicks does that mean it's turning on and off? I understand the auto shut off relay will shut off fuel injectors, cam shaft pos sensor, and crank shaft pos sensor, is that correct and does it shut off anything else?

 

[TSI_93]

Engine turns over, but no combustion takes place.

 

[91eclipseDSM]

So bad compression can show bad timing? And as for the ecu I know it's good I took it out and put it in a buddies laser and his fired right up

And for the CEL I'm not sure if it comes on or not I'll check after work today

Are the cam gear marks suppose to point towards each other
Like this. ><?

 

[TSI_93]

If the ecu got your friends car to start and run, then I doubt its bad.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...-1g-2g-quick-timing-belt-alignment-check.html

 

[aerodsm]

If u have a service port like obd1/2 try doing a code check might get a cas code but just clear it and car should start i had the same problem

 

[PrimerPLus]

I did a search and found oon a dodge neon the ASD (Automatic shut down relay) The ASD relay controls power to the computer and injectors. On some model years it also controls the fuel pump.
ASD relay questions - DodgeForum.com

Check all your fuses.

 

[Icyu11725]

OK when i start the car up when the car is actually cold is starts up fine, but if i drive it around, and park shut it off, and go to turn it on, it wont turn back on, it just keeps cranking. I have to wait about 5-10 minutes before i start it, then it will start and run no problem. I logged the car, and the CTS is working right, it started at about 70, and when up to about 195, and then wouldnt start until it dropped to around 155/160. What could be causing this?

 

[kchaazz]

OK when i start the car up when the car is actually cold is starts up fine, but if i drive it around, and park shut it off, and go to turn it on, it wont turn back on, it just keeps cranking. I have to wait about 5-10 minutes before i start it, then it will start and run no problem. I logged the car, and the CTS is working right, it started at about 70, and when up to about 195, and then wouldnt start until it dropped to around 155/160. What could be causing this?

Do you still have the factory fuel pressure solenoid hooked up? The purpose of this solenoid is to cut vacuum from the fuel pressure regulator for a second when the engine temp is hot on startup because, in theory, the hot fuel in the rail is less dense than cool fuel and therefore extra is necessary to start the car. Most people remove this and dont have any hot starting issues, but some people do. Also, some people have reported that changing their fuel filter solved this hard starting issue for them, so you can try this as well

Edit: Crap, I just realized you have a 2G, so Im not sure if the FPR solenoid issue applies to your car, so perhaps someone else with a 2G can chime in. Until then, if you havent changed your fuel filter in a while, try that, though a bad fuel filter will usually cause hard starting regardless of temp, among other things, and not just hard starting when the engine is hot.

 

[Icyu11725]

Are there any guides on removiing the fuel pressure solenoid? i dont even know where that is or what it looks like. And ill also try changing their fuel filter.

And i have a sx performance fuel pressure regulator. is that the same thing is the fuel pressure solenoid or something different?

 

[kchaazz]

I found this for you, it may be helpful
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/424592-p1105-code.html

 

[Icyu11725]

Still no help =/ i have a 2g but it has a 6 bolt engine and i have a sx performance fpr.

 

[Carlz0r]

I had this issue a couple years back, ended up being a faulty CAS.

 

[kchaazz]

Still no help =/ i have a 2g but it has a 6 bolt engine and i have a sx performance fpr.

You can still utilize the fuel pressure solenoid even with an aftermarket AFPR, just hook the vacuum line up approprately, however, I am unfamiliar with issues with 6 bolt swaps, though I am aware that you sometimes end up with random misfire codes. When did your issue start happenning? perhaps you could try a fuel filter, or check your CAS as was mentioned by the other poster who owns a 2G with a 6 bolt swap?

 

[Icyu11725]

Im not getting any misfiring codes. It starting happening after i replaced some fuel lines and remounted my fpr, but i tripled checked everything and everythings ok.

Hmm... I noticed i wasnt getting a reading on the fpr. The gauge just said 0 psi. So i re tighten all the lines and played with the vacum line and now im getting a reading. Hopefully that was the problem

Nope still having the problem =\

 

[Icyu11725]

When i start my car when the engines cold, it starts fine. When i turn the car on when its hot the car is fine. But if i drive the car, let it get hot, then turn it off and let it sit for 10 minutes and then try ti start it it wont start, until it has cooled down for about another 15 minutes. I just re-routed my fpr to the other side of my engine bay (passenger side) and ran steel braided lines behind the intake manifold. My cars fuel pressure drives around 40psi. But during the 10 minutes i let it sit, it slowly goes up to about 50 psi, then slowly drops as it cools off more. And once its back down to around 40-45 psi i can start the car again. I have no idea how to fix the problem, or if this is causing the problem.

 

[Brandon Mau]

What kind of fuel pressure regulator are you running? Also when is the last time you changed the fuel filter?

 

[M1L3S]

Okay so its one of two thinngs im hoping.....

1)the car ran fine, then i turned it off to do a compression test, i unplugged the cam angle sensor....

2)Also i got my car rechipped at a local performace shop

3)and i also pulled the fuel filter out to check if it was aftermarket.(its a walbro baby )


Now onto the questions...

when reconnecting the cam sensor i checked all fuses, they are fine...

car was tuned by a guy with 30+ years, i doubt thats the issue

im getting fuel to the rail......



so what could it be? im very confused....

worst part about it is that i havent even been able to see how the tune is , i feel like a ann frank watching all the kids play outside... seeing how everyone elses cars are up and running WTF

Almost forgot, i unbolted fuel rail and laid fuel rail and injectors ontop of valve cover to see if they shot fuel, and nothing, i get pressure(one that was put on loose shot off!) just not fuel coming from the injectors themselves. would all 4 injectors need to be pointed downwards to fire?

 

[Icyu11725]

SX Performance fpr, and i bought the car from someone, so im not sure, i can change it but im afraid i wont b able to get the bottom bolt back on, its really tight and u cant see underneath the filter

 

[Brandon Mau]

To change the fuel filter wouldn't be a bad idea even it if takes you a little elbow grease. The FPR may need a rebuild. Pull the plugs and look at them see what they are looking like.

 

[boost97gst]

Use a flare wrench on the filter. And spray it with wd40 overnight. Mine had 200k on and is 15yrs old. Came off with no damage whatsoever.
I would check the vac source for a clog(going from fpr to mani). Also check your return line, should have little to no resistance in it. Then disassemble fpr and check everything out. Possibly replace it. Weird problem for sure, never heard of it.

 

[Brandon Mau]

No the injectors do not need to be pointed downwards to fire! Could be the that the ignition relay went bad or the guy who chipped your car forgot to hook up something on the ECU or the ignition relay which is next to the ECU. you only have to remove a piece of interior under the radio to find out that's where I would look.