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Starting issues - No / Doesn't / Won't Start - MERGED

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prodsm

20+ Year Contributor
258
0
Nov 12, 2002
canada,
All "my car won't start" discussion threads are merged HERE. We've basically made it easier for those who insist upon not searching by grouping together all threads from those with similar issues so you can just scroll through and see some possible solutions. To search for info within this thread, use the "Search This Thread" feature in the black bar about 3" above what you're reading right now.

Could be anything from a loose battery terminal to internal engine damage, and literally everything in between which may involve the electrical, fuel, and ignition system...possibly even something that you screwed up while working on the car yourself. While it's unlikely we're going to diagnose and solve your problem over the internet, feel free to discuss any possible solutions.




I live in Canada and right now its not very warm out, about -30c
my car does not have a block heater too keep it warm.

I tryed to start my car this morning and it wouldent start, ive had this problem before but this time, the car doesnt crank at all it just makes a sound that sounds like an electric drill.

Whats wrong.

Thanks
 
Last edited by a moderator:
If it's a no spark it's either the triggering device , ie cam or crank sensor. Or ignition, check your igniter if coil packs and wires are good.
 
yeah one of my injectors was leaking very badly. Ordered a seal kit today at work. So it will be fixed soon

Got it fixed and running. I just have to figure out this high idle issue.

Just bumping this so people can see I got the running issue fixed
 
If it wont jumpstart, its not the alternator.

If its not an electrical issue its probably the starter.

yeah but usually if you hear a click its the starter which means it shouldn't be broken, if the started was gone you wouldn't hear the starter at all. i believe its the alternator
 
I have had problems with mine ICM dropping spark to cylinders also. I had a weak ICM and that cause alot of problems for me. The problem was I bought mine from local auto parts store. You really really should buy OEM. Mitsubishi brand. For things like relays, modules, and switches they are the best source for reliability.
 
My 95 Talon wont seem to turn over so i did a compression test and the results were cylender 1 90psi 2 30psi 3 90 psi 4 30psi. The car ran great but i recently had the timing belt and water pump replaced then my alternator died and replaced it and now the car dosent turn over it cranks but wont turn over ithe engine is not leaking any fluid and all my other fluids are good and the car never had any smoke come out or backfire. I also have been keeping the battery charged and all the wires are good i changed them to. Any feed back would help.
 
+10 on checking timing belt, it's easy to accidentally get the cam marks a half tooth off and have the valve not have a close encounter with the pistons.
 
Ya deff check timing marks man, an maybe even could b your fuel pump, Turn the key on dont strt it just to the on position an u shld b able to hear it run, if u cant here it then check fuses wiring ect. If thats all good an u can't hear it run then it needs replaced
 
Hey everyone,

Let me start by saying I did consult the no start thread on here and did find it helpful on eliminating some possibilities, however I'm still stuck.

Relevent Mods/Info:
93 Talon TSi
Stock Motor
Arp Head Studs
Evo 8 Injectors
16G Turbo
Apex'i SAFCII

When I first bought the car a month ago it had a cold start problem & it also had a surge under load/break up between about 3k-5k rpms. You would usually have to crank the car for 10-15 minutes before it would start to kick over, then it would kick over and die, and eventually you could get it to run with trouble finding idle due to surges

I didn't bother to start the car when I got home on Friday before I started working on it.

First thing I did was New plugs (NGK BR7ES Gapped to ~.026-.027), one of the wires were messed up so I replaced all the plug wires too. 4-3-2-1 on the head, 4-1-2-3 on the coil. After doing this I took a spare spark plug and checked all the the wires for spark to verify the coil was working. I have spark on all 4.

The car had an o2 sensor with all the wires cut. (I Figure this in unrelated but whatever) So I replaced that.

I replaced the ECT Sensor, however I checked the old one for Voltage & resistance & it had both in the normal range. It the process of doing it, I accidentally broke the wires going into the plug on the left side of the thermostat (I think this is the Coolant Temp Sending Unit? Not sure) but I rewired it and plugged it back in.

Upon Cranking I kept an eye on the fuel pressure regulator and it says I'm in normal operating range (~35psi) Also pulled plugs after cranking for a while to find they smelled like fuel & they even had a little bit of black stuff on them so I think I can safely assume it's got fuel.


When the car ran I would let it idle for 20 minutes and the Temp Gauge would never move which led me to believe it was the ECT sensor or the Sending unit.

Now the car doesn't run at all. I cranked it for 30-40 minutes today, once it got to the 30-40 minute area it would eventually turn over then die right away.

I also threw 2 gallons of 93 In it today since it sat for a month., and filled the coolant after I did the ECT sensor since it was low.

I currently have the battery out because it was dieing from cranking so much so It's on a trickle charger for the night. Figure it cant hurt to try letting the ecu reset itself. Theres no real tune on the SAFC2 Either.

Any suggestions? Could it be timing? I haven't changed it and it ran before..
 
My 95 Talon wont seem to turn over so i did a compression test and the results were cylender 1 90psi 2 30psi 3 90 psi 4 30psi. The car ran great but i recently had the timing belt and water pump replaced then my alternator died and replaced it and now the car dosent turn over it cranks but wont turn over ithe engine is not leaking any fluid and all my other fluids are good and the car never had any smoke come out or backfire. I also have been keeping the battery charged and all the wires are good i changed them to. Any feed back would help.

Those compression numbers seem very low, or is just me?
 
our fuel pumps don't run with the key on. only when the engine is running. there is a jumper in the engine bay that you short with a paper clip and it will run the fuel pump
 
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