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Starter wouldn't stop. Replaced, now won't start.

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v8s_are_slow

20+ Year Contributor
2,822
279
Sep 30, 2002
Panama City, Florida
Was at the track yesterday and went to move my car. Went to turn it off and starter kept turning. Key was off. It'd stop after a good while and finally decided it was time for me to take the car to the house. Went to start car this morning and wouldn't start. Figured it was starter so replaced it. Still won't start. Just a single click and that's it. Battery is good. Tried cranking and battery didn't drop much. Now wondering what to check. It's pretty cold outside. Grrr!!! Thanks.
 
The solenoid is bad on the starter. Replace the whole thing, they aren't that bad.
 
The car was off and not running but the motor was still turning over. Changed starter and now it won't start. Could this be a bad relay maybe? Keeping the new starter in it incase the old one is bad. Don't wanna have to fool with changing it out in the cold again. Just have to figure out where the dang relay is at...if that's even the cause.
 
Could be the relay....but its very easy to check the starter!!! Has happened to me twice where new starters weren't functioning properly!! AND it could be the relay because you said it was acting strange...so check all your relay's!!
 
Is the relay any particular color? It's behind the radio correct? But isn't there more than one behind the radio? Anyone know if there's a relay I can do without that'd replace the starter relay so I can drive? I don't have a/c, don't care about the radio, etc. Just like to drive and be able to start my car.
 
I've found that the majority of starter problems are due to the starter (as opposed to relays, switches, wiring, etc.). You can waste a couple hours trying to troubleshoot relays, only to find them good and change the starter anyway. Or, you can just pull the starter and take to the parts store to have it tested.

That said. One fairly quick and easy test you can do is pull the small "S" wire from the starter and test to see if it's getting 12V when you turn the key. If it is, then your relays and switches are okay.
 
I already replaced the starter though. If the relay was sticking, wouldn't I get power to it all the time anyway?
 
I agree with Ron. I believe if the relay goes bad then you won't get any power to the component. Does the starter relay make a clicking noise when you try to start the car?

Double check all the wiring connections at the starter as well as at the battery. It may very well just be something simple like you forgot to connect a wire, bad connection (particularly the ground wires), etc.
 
Okay, but it wouldn't start with the other starter either. Reason why I replaced it. So I hadn't even touched any wires yet. Did the same thing with the new starter. I heard a click but not sure where it was coming from cause I was standing outside the car and reacing in to try and start it. Is it possible for a relay to stick to where it continuously supplies power to a circuit?
 
A quick google search brought up this site.

Automotive Power Centers, Fuses and Relays

WHEN RELAYS FAIL

Relays that carry high loads and are constantly switching on and off have higher failure rates than relays which are seldom used or only carry low amp loads.

If a relay fails, it will prevent power from reaching the device it controls. In the case of a fuel pump relay, a failed relay will prevent the engine from starting because there will be no fuel pressure. If a cooling fan relay fails, the engine may overheat because the electric cooling fan never comes on. If an A/C compressor clutch relay fails, the compressor won't engage and there will be no cold air from the A/C.

On most Chrysler vehicles, for example, the cooling fan relay must be engaged before power can go to the A/C compressor clutch. If the fan relay has failed, it will prevent both the fan and the compressor clutch from operating.
 
When you removed the previous starter did you take it to a shop to have it bench tested? Most shops will do this for free.

I had a similar issue once. It turned out to be the hot cable that runs from the battery to the starter. Underneath the insulation right at the terminal (battery end) the cable had completely broke in two. Damn STB was causing it to flex. When I would try to start the car I would get a clicking sound from under the radio where the starter relay is (at least on a 2G).

If you still have the old starter take it to a shop to have it bench tested. If it is ok then start checking all the wiring between battery and starter. Make sure the ground cables are secure and attached to clean, bare metal.


You can also use a voltmeter to check voltage at the starter (consult your manual for a diagram of which terminals to check) with someone trying to crank the motor. If it is getting good voltage (within 1 volt of the reading you get at the battery terminals) then the problem is with starter itself or the starter solenoid.

If you do not get any voltage then it may be:
1) starter relay
2) bad connection
3) ignition switch in steering column
4) clutch kill switch

If you get some voltage but it is low comparted to what you get at the battery then it may be a poor ground connection.


One other thing you can do it "jump starting" the starter to bypass some of the other components. You can check your manual or do a search for how to do this. Let me know if you need help with that.

But again, start with the simplest things first. Good luck.
 
I'll check it all tonight. Thanks for the info. And yeah it's cold to me. Not as cold as it gets in Maryland. I was at an Airforce school at Aberdeen. That place was freaking COLD!!!! Not missing it one bit either. Lol.
 
I hate working on cars in the dark. When I changed the starter last night, the negative cable fell down and outta sight. One of the positive cables fell over where the negative cable had been sitting. So of course I hooked up a positive cable onto the negative terminal. Glad I didn't burn the damn thing up. Anyway, car works now. I appreciate all the replies.
 
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