stainless steel clutch lines

[DSMfânâtic]

Has anyone ever broken their clutch lines? I have broken two since I bought my car in July. I think I may have another leaky line, because I am adding fluid daily. I replaced my slave cylinder and one clutch line in august, and the master cylinder and the same clutch line again just 2 weeks ago. Why do they keep breaking? Whats the big deal with stainless steel lines? Will they break too? Where do I buy them?

Thanks
Brian

 

[DSM90AWD]

The "SS" lines (braided SS over rubber) replace the short rubber section of clutch line which eliminates the "slop" caused from expansion of the OEM line.

Any of the vendors here carry them ( I got mine from RRE).

May want to check out TRE for some advice on adjusting your clutch as it may be the culprit.

 

[Mike1992]

I got mine from slowboyracing.com

 

[FiReBReTHa]

slowboy racing here too!!

 

[eclipsegsx9797]

how do you guys like them, and is there a diffrence in feel.

 

[Rsktakr]

or you guys could just do what i did and only spend $5 and go buy 4 foot of metal brake line that has the threaded fitting at both ends from the parts store and run it from your resivoir, along the fire wall, down over the trans and coil it 1 time and then to your slave cylinder and never have to replace it.. and IF you do have to replace it .. it only costs $5........ steven

 

[FiReBReTHa]

gotta debate that five bucks compared to if you have to remove it, move it, change things, etc.

But not bad suggestion bro.


I like it, its a bit quicker, there is no smooth let on when you clutch in/out, so you have to manually do it and slow down your shifting to make it smoother.

 

[dave99gst]

$20 bucks from RRE

 

[Rsktakr]

well my rre one blew up as well.. it took me less the n10 minutes to put the brake line on, works JUST as well as the factory line ( in fact its the same thing except for the 12 inches of rubber or stainless when you swap it out) and i cant tell a difference at all between the steel braided line and the 1 piece brake line.. and i shift at 9k ( built trans, shifter bushings, tmo stage III, built head, act flywheel and buschur dampener).. just a suggestion if your in a jam and NEED a clutchline right now and cant wait for RRE to send one out... Steven

 

[DSMfânâtic]

The one i changed last was a brake line bent by my mechanic. I think it might be the one leaking, but i dont know....it's too cold out to be crawling around in the snow.

 

[Defiant]

After a new clutch, my original(?) hard line cracked right where it enters the compression nut at the slave. I went and got a piece (I got two, in case I botched one- they were $4) of flanged tubing with the nuts on it at AutoZone, and a bender. Shaped to fit, installed.... and the new one cracked at the same spot after a few weeks. Called RRE and said, "Send". Got it in two days, put it on in twenty minutes, got rid of that bizarre accumulator.

Flawless since.

 

[DSMfânâtic]

Defiant- yours broke there too?
This is the thing we are talking about, right?
http://www.roadraceengineering.com/instructions/2gclutchlineinstructions.htm
If so, i'm gettin' one.

Thanks

Brian

 

[Mike1992]

Originally posted by DSMfânâtic
Defiant- yours broke there too?
This is the thing we are talking about, right?
http://www.roadraceengineering.com/instructions/2gclutchlineinstructions.htm
If so, i'm gettin' one.

Thanks

Brian

After reading that link, i wonder if i can remove the restrictor thingy that was in my new slave. I dunno if I got it in the right way anyway

 

[DSMfânâtic]

I'm ordering that as soon as I can, thanks for the help. Not to go off topic, but anyone know where I can get the clutch line that goes from the master cylinder?(besides mitsubishi)

Thanks
Brian

 

[Defiant]

Yup, that's the one.

Remove the restrictor. It's easy to put back if you miss the slipping.

You could just get the tubing and make your own master-to-slave-terminous tube, but it'd be a dog. A girl one.

 

[DSMfânâtic]

Cause of breakage?

Could it be motor mounts?

 

[Defiant]

Originally posted by DSMfânâtic
Cause of breakage?

Fatigue failure. Harmonic vibration, engine vibration, random molecular failure, who knows. The first one may have been flexed just one time too many during the clutch replacement. The second may have had too much metal dancing around (it was about 4" too long before being bent, which fit better than the 2" too-short one), or who knows what. The third one didn't get the chance to experience a full service life.

Could it be motor mounts?

Could be anything, but with breaking there I'd not suspect the motor mounts. That piece is en bloc with the gearbox and engine block- not affected by engine movement. There's a rubber line between the frame and the clutchworks.