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Stainless Steel brake lines?

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15+ Year Contributor
148
2
Jul 9, 2004
savannah, Georgia
I'm very interested in new steel flex lines for my brakes, I was thinking goodridge. A buddy of mine said he put some on his cobra and they made his brakes fail? Anyone have any insight on the reliablity?
 
i have had a set of goodridge ss lines on my car for 2 1/2-3 years now and have enjoyed the increased pedal feel ever since...absolutly no problems...as a matter of fact i would be interested in what problem the "cobra guy" thought that ss lines caused.


jim :dsm:
 
The ONLY concern I've heard about them is dirt working it's way in between the SS sheath and the Teflon tube underneath and wearing through the teflon. That said, I've heard of maybe a couple of cases for the 1000s that are being used right now. Don't think it's a much of an issue at all, especially with some of the SS lines coming coated from the factory.
 
I had that problem with the goodridge lines. Dirt got between the stainless lines and the rubber lines and the lines failed. I was slowing down to take a turn on a T intersection and my brake pedal hits the floor and doesn't brake. And I get brake fluid all over the front driver side tire. I spin as I try to make the turn. Luckily no one was around and I spun without hitting anything. I tried to warranty the lines but they said that something was rubbing against the line. But the spot where it ruptured wasn't around anything and my line was pretty dirty. So no warranty. And the next set I plan on getting is going to have the coating over the stainless braid. Sorry for the long post, just thought I'd share that with you guys.
 
Sounds to me like this can happen to any steel braided lines. The only two brands I know of are Goodridge and Earls. You could probably cover them with something. I've had my Earls brake lines on the front for a few months so far with no problems.

Anyone know if it's possible to get only the rear lines? Since I got my big brake kit up front it came with lines. I need to get the rear lines but don't want to buy a whole kit that comes with front lines I'll never use.
 
Anyone know if it's possible to get only the rear lines? Since I got my big brake kit up front it came with lines. I need to get the rear lines but don't want to buy a whole kit that comes with front lines I'll never use.
Todd may be able to help, we had to do a rear set for my car when I got my setup. Its actually a 1pc 2g kit.

My other idea would be to create a set using pre-assembled hoses and the appropriate fittings to mate with the cars plumbing. Try these, http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/group.asp?GroupID=BRAKELINES and these, http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/group.asp?GroupID=BRAKEADAPTMET
 
I got a Full Brake Kit (pads, rotors, lines, fluid) from Martin when they were "The Speed Factor". Now he's the Owner/Operator of VIPGARAGE. They offer the same brake kits that I bought.

Now for the relavent information - The Technafit Brake brake lines are AWESOME. Less expensive than the Goodrich lines and they are coated in some type of clear teflon. They've been working for me for a while now. No problems.

Martin has been a great help and solved any issues I had. I suggest you contact him and his shop for brakes. I've yet to find a better deal.

Technafit Lines link:
http://www.vipgarageonline.com/store/item/1co6s/Brake_Lines/Technafit_SS_Brake_Lines_2G.html

Brake Kits Link:
http://www.vipgarageonline.com/store/category/b7tb/Brake_Kits.html
 
I just got some goodridge brake lines, but I haven't installed them yet. Would rubberized undercoating be a good coating on top of the brake lines or is the coating something that I would need to buy already applied to them?
 
Something you may want to try rather than the spray on rubberized undercoating, would be liquid electrical tape. You brush it on and it dries to a nice smooth rubbery finish. Its available at most hardware stores, or lowes, home depot, etc.
 
I got a Full Brake Kit (pads, rotors, lines, fluid) from Martin when they were "The Speed Factor". Now he's the Owner/Operator of VIPGARAGE. They offer the same brake kits that I bought.

Now for the relavent information - The Technafit Brake brake lines are AWESOME. Less expensive than the Goodrich lines and they are coated in some type of clear teflon. They've been working for me for a while now. No problems.

Martin has been a great help and solved any issues I had. I suggest you contact him and his shop for brakes. I've yet to find a better deal.

Technafit Lines link:
http://www.vipgarageonline.com/store/item/1co6s/Brake_Lines/Technafit_SS_Brake_Lines_2G.html

Brake Kits Link:
http://www.vipgarageonline.com/store/category/b7tb/Brake_Kits.html

glad to hear you are happy with them bud! :rocks:

our kits are very popular on the board and the technafit lines are our house favorite. We run them on EVERY one of our street and race cars. They are a great value and quality is second to none.

:dsm:
 
Sorry if I am posting hearsay but my uncle is a driving instructor with the Audi club in Orange County and a sales rep for Brembo. I asked him about braided brake lines and he suggested that I not buy them. He says that the braided lines are supposed to be replaced every year and that most guys do not do it. Just my/his .02
 
Sorry if I am posting hearsay but my uncle is a driving instructor with the Audi club in Orange County and a sales rep for Brembo. I asked him about braided brake lines and he suggested that I not buy them. He says that the braided lines are supposed to be replaced every year and that most guys do not do it. Just my/his .02

Did they tell you WHY they are supposed to be replaced? It seems hard to believe that BRAIDED STAINLESS STEEL LINES of any kind are weaker than regular rubber ones. Why don't the stock ones have to be replaced every year?

Man, I guess I'll have to replace my entire fuel system, turbo drain, oil cooler lines and all my other braided stainless each year..... :notgood: :toobad:
 
I don't think anyone mentioned this, but RRE has DOT approved SS lines. They're about 115 i think for the set. And i'm sure they'd be able to let you know if they've run into any issues with those lines like the goodridge.
 
Good idea Dan!

Martin, can you get the rear brake lines separate?

For you sir, anything. ;)

In regards to someone recommending not using SS lines....... with all due respect i disagree. I can't tell you how many stock lines i've seen rupture on the street and ever more so on the track.

The SS lines last. In the 5 years i have been in the motorsports profession i have seen 2 sets of lines fail. Both were road race cars that would light up the rotors like a super nova.
 
Did they tell you WHY they are supposed to be replaced? It seems hard to believe that BRAIDED STAINLESS STEEL LINES of any kind are weaker than regular rubber ones. Why don't the stock ones have to be replaced every year?

In regards to someone recommending not using SS lines....... with all due respect i disagree. I can't tell you how many stock lines i've seen rupture on the street and ever more so on the track.

The SS lines last. In the 5 years i have been in the motorsports profession i have seen 2 sets of lines fail. Both were road race cars that would light up the rotors like a super nova.

His explanation was that the constant flexing of the lines from turning the front tires and suspension movement can cause the lines to fray and rupture. Not much of an issue with fuel lines etc.

I guess his advice was off based on other's experiences. I am just voicing one concern.
 
His explanation was that the constant flexing of the lines from turning the front tires and suspension movement can cause the lines to fray and rupture. Not much of an issue with fuel lines etc.

I guess his advice was off based on other's experiences. I am just voicing one concern.

multiple points of view are always a good thing bud.

I can see where he is coming from but i don't see this being an issue with a well made kit. I have seen lines that aren't the right length. For example. One of the cars i saw the failure on was a 240sx that had customer tie rod/ends done which increased it's steering angle. Well that wasn't considered for the lines and the extended angle would actually pull on the lines which cause them to break apart.

The fraying is not much of an issue with the lines we used because they are coated on the outside too. Some other manufacturer lines out there don't have that so they fray and catch debris.
 
Man, I guess I'll have to replace my entire fuel system, turbo drain, oil cooler lines and all my other braided stainless each year..... :notgood: :toobad:

You'd be surprised how many SS braided & other braided AN hose isn't recommended for pump fuel on street cars. Because of all the different additives they add nowadays there is no way for the manufacturer to make sure the hose will withstand them. Most of the braided lines are a type of synthetic rubber internally & pump gas will actually permeate though the rubber & eventually break it down. Guys that run an aftermarket braded or push lock fuel system, have you ever shut the car off and taken a good smell with you nose within a couple inches of the line? I bet most will be surprised to find you can smell fuel. I went through 3 different setups until I got one that worked with zero smell. When I talked about it most said, no mines fine, it doesn't smell but when I told them to go out & actually smell the lines they all smelt fuel. The way to get around this & the recommended hose to use is teflon lined. They require different fittings & they are more expensive but I can say with this setup I get zero fuel smell, but I'm getting off topic.

I too run SS braided hoses (for the past year) & never thought anything bad about it. My thoughts were always now I have a better performing more reliable system. I guess it makes sense that they could everntually wear with teflon to SS braid rubbing, specially when you throw some abrasive dirt in there as well. Maybe these should be an item that you replace every 2, 5 years etc. to prevent this possibility.
 
Wow, I just now stumbled on this whole dirt between the steel and teflon issue.
I guess I'll wrap mine in yellow electrical tape to protect them from abrasion damage.
I liked the look, but I'll wrap it to prevent severe brake failure.

I'v actually had to redo my brake line holders, because the suspension components were rubbing against the line and actully trying to stretch them during full turns.
Here's a link to the thread I started to document all of this:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=255087

Good news is if you can weld it's a pretty easy mod to do.

Of course if my brake lines were about 3 inches or so longer, then I wouldn't have to do this...

Make of it what you will...
 
I've got the lines from RRE on my 92 and they seem to be fine. I've only had them for about 10 months or so though.
 
There's 2 potential issues with SSB brake lines that I know of. One is the failure due to twisting forces, and the second is the dirt rubbing through. I've seen that a lot of the newer lines have an outside plastic covering to prevent the dirt issue. The twisting issue should not come into play on properly installed lines.

I have SSB brake lines on my DSM and my MR2. The set on the MR2 are 10 years old now. The DSM set are 4 years old. Neither have the plastic coating. Both cars are dirt rallyed. The MR2 has nearly 130k miles on those brake lines (the DSM, only maybe 15k, since the stupid car is always breaking down). Due to the conditions I use the cars, I'm careful to wash the lines off very well when I wash the car (which isn't very often at all really). I inspect the lines frequently as well, just to make sure all is well.

I chose SSB brake lines because of my concerns of having a rubber line get cut by sharp rocks and/or sticks (of the type that tend to get thrown around in the wheel well while rallying). I couldn't tell any difference whatsoever in brake feel on either car by adding them. I would not put them on a "normal" car, it's simply not necessary. The only good cases for using them are road race cars (modified enough to make LOTS of heat while braking), and "off-road" cars... If you have a fast daily driver or a drag car, don't bother. You're better off stock.
 
1LE said:
If you have a fast daily driver or a drag car, don't bother. You're better off stock.

I'll keep that in mind the next time I have to replace a ruptured rubber brake line on a stock daily driver.
 
I can't really say how much difference I saw, since I put in dual piston calipers, hawk HPS pads, and new rotors all at once.
 
A bit off topic, but does anyone have a source for SS lines to mount a 1g/3000gt style (non-banjo bolt) big brake caliper to a 2G fwd (banjo bolt caliper)?

I see RRE sells them, but 6 days shipping to Florida is a killer. Does anyone know the part numbers so I can piece it together from say Summit racing or another vendor?
 
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