Resolved 2G Sound like a bad Fuel Pump?

[GIB]

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PLEASE SEE VIDEO, THANK YOU!

? Is this the sound of a failed fuel pump?

Fuel pump is a Walbro 255 HD in a 98 GSX.

I've been tracking a no start issue. It may be very obvious. Just wanted to see if this sounds familiar to anyone.
This is a start attempt. The clicking is from the two relays which I believe are MPI and Fuel Pump relay.
Car died on the road last week, then unable to start. I haven't had a fuel pump fail on me before.

 

[DSMPT]

I don't know what exactly the sound is but why don't you just apply 12v to the fuel pump check connector (the connector just right next the battery) to run the pump directly?
You should hear the stable pump sound and see the stable fuel pressure if the fuel pump is good.
If you wouldn't hear the stable pump sound or wouldn't see the fuel pressure while applying 12v, then the pump is probably dead or something is not right.

In case if you would hear the pump sound by applying 12v but can't activate it via ECU like ECMLink or standalone, then should check between ECU and the pump including the wiring, MPI/Fuel pump relay.

 

[GIB]

I don't know what exactly the sound is but why don't you just apply 12v to the fuel pump check connector (the connector just right next the battery) to run the pump directly?
You should hear the stable pump sound and see the stable fuel pressure if the fuel pump is good.
If you wouldn't hear the stable pump sound or wouldn't see the fuel pressure while applying 12v, then the pump is probably dead or something is not right.

In case if you would hear the pump sound by applying 12v but can't activate it via ECU like ECMLink or standalone, then should check between ECU and the pump including the wiring, MPI/Fuel pump relay.

I've tried to search doing that with no luck.
Would I just create a wire with a spade, with one to the battery and one to that connector in the engine bay?
(The black connector in the bay right?)

 

[DSMPT]

Would I just create a wire with a spade,

You don't need a spade connector.

(The black connector in the bay right?)

Yes, with a black/blue wire.

Please refer below.

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[GIB]

You don't need a spade connector.

Yes, with a black/blue wire.

Please refer below.

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Nice! Thank you!
I will update this thread with the results asap.

 

[GIB]

This is what happened when I added power through the fuel pump check connector in the engine bay.

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[GIB]

It only clicks when I turn the key.
The relays do turn on. I replaced the MPI and fuel pump relay with new units. The LinkECU gauge shows no fuel display.

 

[miliman13]

I cannot see any videos and I don’t know what the car is doing , but if it doesn’t crank and only clicks , the way I know of replicating that effect is by making a bad ground connection.

Check the 3 grounds in a 2G -turbo one on trans and block , one on firewall and one on drivers fender next to PS reservoir and lastly pull the ground spade connector from the starter and clean it and bend the metal a lill bit if needed to insure good pressure and contact .

Also check your battery and the terminals .

 

[GIB]

I cannot see any videos and I don’t know what the car is doing , but if it doesn’t crank and only clicks , the way I know of replicating that effect is by making a bad ground connection.

Check the 3 grounds in a 2G -turbo one on trans and block , one on firewall and one on drivers fender next to PS reservoir and lastly pull the ground spade connector from the starter and clean it and bend the metal a lill bit if needed to insure good pressure and contact .

Also check your battery and the terminals .

Thank You. I will update this post with that if I can get to it this weekend.

 

[DSMPT]

Does it crank?

No need to turn the key on to drive the pump via the fuel pump check connector. You do it with the key off.
If it cranks but the pump doesn't run with the 12v via the fuel pump check connector, then most likely the pump is dead or/and wiring/connection is bad or/and a bad fuel pump ground. (The MPI/Fuel pump relay have nothing to do when you drive the pump via the fuel pump check connector)

Did you check the ground #8 in the pic below?

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[GIB]

Does it crank?

No need to turn the key on to drive the pump via the fuel pump check connector. You do it with the key off.
If it cranks but the pump doesn't run with the 12v via the fuel pump check connector, then most likely the pump is dead or/and wiring/connection is bad or/and a bad fuel pump ground. (The MPI/Fuel pump relay have nothing to do when you drive the pump via the fuel pump check connector)

Did you check the ground #8 in the pic below?

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It will crank, but only very slowly (battery is low now) after I connect the car to a battery. ( When it died on the road while driving I had hazards on and kept trying to start it).
I will try it again with the key off.
I have not checked that ground yet. I will check all these in the morning and update.
Thanks!

 

[GIB]

Small update. This is giving power to the pump with the key set to OFF.

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[pauleyman]

Fuel pump appears to be working. Tell us the full problem. No start??

 

[GIB]

Fuel pump appears to be working. Tell us the full problem. No start??

Car died while driving. It then wouldn't start (just cranked but no turn over).
I sat with my hazards on trying to start for over an hour, and may have drained the battery.
MPI and fuel relays are fine.
Won't start, just barely cranks, like a weak crank (slowly cranks while the interior lights are dim) even connected to a battery jumper.
With Power to the fuel pump through check connector in the engine bay, the pump turns on (with key on or off).
(See pic above) I was advised to check ground 8 near the front floor upper crossmember. ?? Is the ground under the car?? Or inside? Haven't been able/had time to look yet...

I'm still not sure what is wrong, and very very confused...

 

[DSMPT]

I was advised to check ground 8 near the front floor upper crossmember.

No need to check it anymore. It's grounded. I asked because I didn't hear the fuel pump sound in the previous video but actually the video sound level was too low. I could hear the pump running in this time. So at least the fuel pump seems to be working.

Do you see the fuel pressure?

 

[pauleyman]

If it died hard like you shut it off it isn't fuel pump. Have you checked timing belt? Ignition components? I think you're chasing the wrong thing.

 

[GIB]

No need to check it anymore. It's grounded. I asked because I didn't hear the fuel pump sound in the previous video but actually the video sound level was too low. I could hear the pump running in this time. So at least the fuel pump seems to be working.

Do you see the fuel pressure?

The fuel pressure shown is in the video below.
I tried it once before starting the video, where it went to 43 from about 20 from sitting for 2 days.

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[GIB]

If it died hard like you shut it off it isn't fuel pump. Have you checked timing belt? Ignition components? I think you're chasing the wrong thing.

It did die hard like it was shut off, but dash was still on and all lights. I have Link G4x ECU. Check engine light flashed after it died, but I couldn't get the code.
I checked the timing belt and it seems to be the same amount of play as normal, and the marks are lined up.

 

[GIB]

It did die hard like it was shut off, but dash was still on and all lights. I have Link G4x ECU. Check engine light flashed after it died, but I couldn't get the code.
I checked the timing belt and it seems to be the same amount of play as normal, and the marks are lined up.

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[GIB]

I cannot see any videos and I don’t know what the car is doing , but if it doesn’t crank and only clicks , the way I know of replicating that effect is by making a bad ground connection.

Check the 3 grounds in a 2G -turbo one on trans and block , one on firewall and one on drivers fender next to PS reservoir and lastly pull the ground spade connector from the starter and clean it and bend the metal a lill bit if needed to insure good pressure and contact .

Also check your battery and the terminals .

I checked the grounds, the only one of issue is next to the starter which had a little oil that I wiped off.
? Would that cause the engine to just shut off randomly?

 

[RamenPride]

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Timing belt deflection between the cam gears doesn't really tell anything. You'll need to take off the lower cover to check the timing marks on the front case.

Seems like it's getting fuel, might be an ignition problem.

 

[pauleyman]

Anytime a car shuts off like you turned the key you are missing one of the three key thing. Fuel, spark or compression. Fuel and spark would have to be shut off as if you turned key. That almost immediately rules out plugs, wires and fuel pump. Any of those fail the car would just run bad before it dies. That leaves control(ecu) or input(sensors, crank, cam etc) or possibly ignition transistor. I wouldn't suspect coil as there are 2. Both would have to fail to shut off hard. All of this is assuming you didnt have a major mechanical failure like timing belt. Those you have to check all marks but they're also easy to spot as you can hear it when cranking. A motor with no compression just sort of free spins instead of sound changing pitch as cylinders compress air.

 

[miliman13]

I looked at your build info , didn’t see anything about SD .

I recently got mines to run after a no start , and if I touch the throttle it would die . I’ve pinpointed it to be a bad Omni 4 bar MAP sensor.

Depending on harness contact it would recreate a no start condition
Just a thought .

 

[GIB]

Anytime a car shuts off like you turned the key you are missing one of the three key thing. Fuel, spark or compression. Fuel and spark would have to be shut off as if you turned key. That almost immediately rules out plugs, wires and fuel pump. Any of those fail the car would just run bad before it dies. That leaves control(ecu) or input(sensors, crank, cam etc) or possibly ignition transistor. I wouldn't suspect coil as there are 2. Both would have to fail to shut off hard. All of this is assuming you didnt have a major mechanical failure like timing belt. Those you have to check all marks but they're also easy to spot as you can hear it when cranking. A motor with no compression just sort of free spins instead of sound changing pitch as cylinders compress air.

It didn't have a wining sound, it just kept cranking, like the normal sound before it's about to start.
I did replace the cam position sensor (brand new 1g blacktop) from a 1g green top, about 200 miles ago, but saw no difference since.
I have it on to make repairs easier since it's a Cam/crank sensor. I thought hall effect would be better.
The power transistor was replaced just this summer with a new one.
The LinkEcu gauges are working, would that mean the ECU is transmitting?
? Could it be a bad Cam sensor?
? Do Cam sensors make noise when they fail?
? Do power transistors make noise when failing?

 

[GIB]

I looked at your build info , didn’t see anything about SD .

I recently got mines to run after a no start , and if I touch the throttle it would die . I’ve pinpointed it to be a bad Omni 4 bar MAP sensor.

Depending on harness contact it would recreate a no start condition
Just a thought .

I had it built by a shop and they did say they set it up like speed density.
I have Link G4X ECU and it supposedly has a MAP sensor built in I thought.
Stock harness but modified to fit in Link ECU.