The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Post a Question

Somthing isn't meshing right with my car???

Please Support Rix Racing

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Well apparently there is a restriction in my system some where and it seems like it must be the exhaust (more specifically the down pipe...flex section or 2 1/2" section...O2 housing is also 2 1/2"). The cars power stayed the same (went from 449whp to 450). Before we went to the dyno we did a boost leak test and fixed all of the leaks except for one on the compressor housing (didn't have the time or the money to mess with that at the time).

I didn't ask for a print out I was just ready to leave. The hp would get up to 450 then fall. Apparently the guy driving the Lamborghini was more important than me so they used the only remaining RPM dyno cable on him so I didn't get any torque readings.

Before we hit the wall the change from 25psi to 26psi netted me a 21whp gain.

I would have just cut the exhaust off but I was paying $100 an hour to sit on the dyno.

Positives: The bigger HTA turbo hits full boost 200 RPM's sooner than my FP3052 did, my shifter situation is taken care of.

EDIT: I know the eprom chip is a restriction but not one that would cause this. Either way I'm getting an AEM.
 
BrokenTsi said:
Alright, then you must have a brick under your gas pedal when you go to the track. If you're making 450whp, you should be running alot faster.
Click to expand...

I lose everything between shifts no matter how fast I shift. They were talking at the shop last night thinking that the exhaust is messed up at the flex section.

They think the exhaust not getting out fast enough is causing me to lose everything between shifts (not letting the turbo keep spooling).

richard33 said:
If you feel like you're bogging down in between shifts rev the car higher and WOT shift. You should also get dsmlink.
Click to expand...

I would get ECMLink if it still had the ability to clear CEL codes. Since it doesnt I mine as well get a used AEM for just a little more.
 
19BLACKGST98 said:
I lose everything between shifts no matter how fast I shift. They were talking at the shop last night thinking that the exhaust is messed up at the flex section.

They think the exhaust not getting out fast enough is causing me to lose everything between shifts (not letting the turbo keep spooling).



I would get ECMLink if it still had the ability to clear CEL codes. Since it doesnt I mine as well get a used AEM for just a little more.
Click to expand...

Im not sure where you get that info from but it definitely has the ability to clear codes. Im not 100% on v3 lite but the full v3 version has that feature. You will make more power and have a more reliable car with the better tuning abilities.

Also, if you want to run better times you have to get those 60ft times down. Whats your wheel/tire setup?
 
richard33 said:
Im not sure where you get that info from but it definitely has the ability to clear codes. Im not 100% on v3 lite but the full v3 version has that feature. You will make more power and have a more reliable car with the better tuning abilities.

Also, if you want to run better times you have to get those 60ft times down. Whats your wheel/tire setup?
Click to expand...

It is the quick boost lost between shifts thats killing me. Even when having some fun runs I get caught between shifts.

I have 26" MT Streets on a 15" drag rim. Back tires are on stock chrome rim.

Also I don't know if its in my profile but my car only weighs 2,770 lbs. So that should even help some.

My suspension hasnt been tweaked much for the launch yet because I'm having the issue with losing the power. Now not only am I having that issue but I spend another 1K on the car and gained 1 HP due to whatever is holding the car back.

Does this sound like it could be an issue with the exhaust getting out to ya'll?

There is a bottle neck somewhere in the car. I have a 75mm throttle body, 3" intercooler piping, Big intercooler, 4 inch intake pipe into the 4" opening of the turbo, FP exhaust manifold, 2.5" O2 housing, Everything on the exhaust is 3" except for the 2.5" section that connects to the O2 housing, JMF Intake manifold.

Am I missing anything that could be a restriction besides the O2 housing or DP. I think the downpipe is a cheap one and its been on the car for years. That's all I can really think is killing it?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I highly doubt it, unless someone stuffed a tennis ball in there. It sounds pretty smiliar to the setup I had a few years ago except for the 3" intercooler piping. It sounds like it could possibly be a wastegate issue more than anything. Can you tell me more about the wastegate and how you have it installed? What type of boost controller are you using?
 
I'd say to start with,

Fix this
19BLACKGST98 said:
we did a boost leak test and fixed all of the leaks except for one on the compressor housing
Click to expand...

an ditch the 2.5" section in the down pipe... not saying that is causing you boost issue just that it would help power wise.

Are you using NLTS ?
 
Greddy profect B spec II electronic boost controller and the WG is installed like this
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Its connected via Vband (or whatever those clamps are called) to the exhaust housing of the turbo. The two boost lines run to the boost controller solenoid which run up the Intake manifold. Oh and the WG is a 44mm tail.

I cracked the hose coming from the WG when I went out to take the pic...also I did not what that pink zip-tie on there but the helper through 2 on when I wasn't looking.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
JAX2Ganey said:
what is a, "SS FP etched cover"?
Click to expand...

Its a heat shield that's in the way at the top of the picture.

MY1GDSM said:
I'd say to start with,

Fix this


an ditch the 2.5" section in the down pipe... not saying that is causing you boost issue just that it would help power wise.

Are you using NLTS ?
Click to expand...

At the track I use NLTS.

95AWD6Bolt said:
If you dont want to lose boost between shifts, go auto.
Click to expand...

Its loosing everything at a much faster rate then it should. I would probably have a similar issue with an auto in the car at this point.
 
No I didnt print any up due to not havn't the torque cable when on the dyno. I have evoscan but I have a 95 ECU so its garbage.

95AWD6Bolt said:
I know, I think his problem right now is his tune.
Click to expand...
I don't tune my own car since im dont have the means and I dont know enough about it.

The guy tuning my car tunes and works on DSM's all day everyday as his full time job. He's on the dyno right now with someones EVO.
 
Last edited:
The 2.5" part of the exhaust is not the problem. I used FP's 2.5" o2 housing to a 2.5" flange, then it was 3" all the way back. I got 133mph out of it back in the day.

You may want to pull apart that inspect that wastegate. Make sure the diaphragm isn't pinched, there could be a hole in it. Its happened to me, and boost was slow between shifts. You can also check the operation of the WG with a hand pump.

Try borrowing an MBC to rule out the Greddy Profect as a suspect.
 
BrokenTsi said:
The 2.5" part of the exhaust is not the problem. I used FP's 2.5" o2 housing to a 2.5" flange, then it was 3" all the way back. I got 133mph out of it back in the day.

You may want to pull apart that inspect that wastegate. Make sure the diaphragm isn't pinched, there could be a hole in it. Its happened to me, and boost was slow between shifts. You can also check the operation of the WG with a hand pump.

Try borrowing an MBC to rule out the Greddy Profect as a suspect.
Click to expand...

I know there are plenty of people making over 500whp with the 2.5" section on their Down pipe. I will pull it apart on my next day off...would the boost test we performed yesterday not have checked the wastegate?

I will get on my local forum and ask about a MBC thanks.

johneclipse said:
im still thinkin its the "boost leak on the compressor cover".
Click to expand...

We fixed every leak except that one. That one alone wasnt that bad but im sure doing the pulls on the dyno and on the way to the dyno probably made it worst. The only fix for that would be to pull it of and RTV it right?
 
Ive had a compressor leak in a similar fashion, I pulled it apart, eliminated the leak, and it made no difference. It should be fixed tho, just in case.

Its pretty much undetectable unless you'll pull the wastegate and bench test it. I took a tire valve stem, put a rubber hose on it, and then pumped it with air to see if it would hold. Or just take it apart, its very easy to do.
 
BrokenTsi said:
Ive had a compressor leak in a similar fashion, I pulled it apart, eliminated the leak, and it made no difference. It should be fixed tho, just in case.

Its pretty much undetectable unless you'll pull the wastegate and bench test it. I took a tire valve stem, put a rubber hose on it, and then pumped it with air to see if it would hold. Or just take it apart, its very easy to do.
Click to expand...

They dont make a gasket/o-ring for the compressor housing.
Ive taken the wastegate apart before to add a spring to run more boost. Your right taking it apart is pretty easy but clamping it down by hand to put it back together isn't very plesant :) . I wont have time to remove it until Monday. Whenever I get it off I'll look it over and take some pics and post them here. Thanks.
 
Last edited:
I was searching for a true 3" downpipe when I ran across this thread: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/new...-about-buying-ebay-megan-racing-downpipe.html

I may check this out while I'm checking everything else since I have a cheapo downpipe.

I doubt it has anything to do with the 2.5" section of pipe but if my flex section sucked in (which is what my mechanic thinks it is) then it may be causing some of my issues?

It would only cost me $35 plus welding to fix. The other option was having a full 3" exhaust fabbed up for $400. (if my flex section proves to be restrictive...if not Ill just bolt it back up)

I will have a lot more time to devote to this when this semester is over and I only have to worry about work and my family.
 
Ok well I went to a muffler shop to have the flex section removed and it wasn't collapsed (so I just had them weld the pipe back to it):
You must be logged in to view this image or video.


Found some parts of my exhaust that are a little smaller than 2 1/2 inches (part that connects to the turbo and the piece that connects the downpipe to the N1 exhaust:
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Last edited:
johneclipse said:
im still thinkin its the "boost leak on the compressor cover".
Click to expand...

Well this was eliminated on Monday and the problem is still there. Very disappointing. I should have some free time today to take apart the Waste gate then early next week I will have access to a MBC to eliminate the EBC from the list. Thanks for the help again guys.

EDIT: I had another thought recently. Could the light weight flywheel be causing me to lose to much between shifts? I know that a light weight flywheel isn't a big dill for a GSX but I think I read that it maybe bad for a FWD?
 
Last edited:
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Boosted Fabrication
ECM Tuning
ExtremePSI
FIBA Motorsport
Fuel Injector Clinic
Innovation Products
Jacks Transmissions
JNZ Tuning
Kiggly Racing
Morrison Fabrications
Rix Racing
RockAuto
STM Tuned
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top