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Somthing isn't meshing right with my car???

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BrokenTsi said:
Thats the weirdest little setup I've seen. I would re-do all of that. I could see that causing a problem. I'm assuming you had your shop/mechanic do that for you?

What do you have in your car that requires a vacuum line?

I would run the wastegate to a better boost source, like the compressor cover or lower intercooler pipe and have your MBC or EBC between that.
Click to expand...

The hoses were probably connected like that when he did the wire tuck.

The only thing I can think of that requiers a vacuum line in the car is the boost guage and I see it on the other side. Hopfully I can get back from the lake at a decent time so I can figure it out.

I talked to my mechanic yesterday and he has a v44 wastgate that I can throw on my car to eliminate the question of my wg being bad. Ill get him to tap the lower intercooler pipe and borrow a mbc to eliminate that as well.

Thanks for the help.

Edit: im an idiot...im sure the vacuum line leading into the car is from the EBC. I installed it back in 2003...why did I go through the passenger side though?
 
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Well we tested boost from the lower icp against the boost in the smim and it tested good. Leak down test was good. Installed a mbc and the problem was still there. Verified the timing marks with the Piston being at TDC and it all checked out fine.
 
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My mechanic doesn't want to add another variable to the problem equation that the car is having so I havnt installed it yet. This Saturday he is going to install stock cam's back in the car and if that doesn't fix it then the SMIM and 75mm TB are coming off and the stock stuff is going back on. I guess we will eventually have it back to stock so I can part it out if the problem isnt fixable :( ...It hurts because Ive had the car since 2003.

I am taking the car over to a friends house Friday to install DSM link and try to make the car run using it...I'm sure we wont have it doing WOT pulls by the end of the day because im trying to learn, but I'll post a log of what we can get. I will always be switching the regular chip back in before taking it back over for trouble shooting though.

I think I need to start a new thread just about the late boost and bad boost recovery...I think the title of this thread doesn't help my cause much.
 
Wow, thats a strange vacuum setup you got there. I would redo it all, t your boost guage into the top of your tb, t your map sensor to your fuel rail vacuum, leave your bov vacuum connected to your intake manifold with no lines t-ed into it..
 
TurBoneRed said:
Wow, thats a strange vacuum setup you got there. I would redo it all, t your boost guage into the top of your tb, t your map sensor to your fuel rail vacuum, leave your bov vacuum connected to your intake manifold with no lines t-ed into it..
Click to expand...

Ill go by the auto parts store tomorrow and get some T's and vacuum line to change it up.
But when we tested the stuff today we capped off some of that stuff and ran the WG off of the tap we made in the LICP.
 
MY1GDSM said:
Just for reference, What Psi Spring(s) are you using?
Click to expand...

Before I took it apart 2 days ago I had the big blue spring and the small green spring (18.5 lbs total if I remember correctly) This will almost allow you to run 40psi.

Right now I just have the big blue spring (14ish psi) that came in the WG originally in it. I will put the other one back in when the problem is found.
 
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19BLACKGST98 said:
I lose everything between shifts no matter how fast I shift. They were talking at the shop last night thinking that the exhaust is messed up at the flex section.

They think the exhaust not getting out fast enough is causing me to lose everything between shifts (not letting the turbo keep spooling).



I would get ECMLink if it still had the ability to clear CEL codes. Since it doesnt I mine as well get a used AEM for just a little more.
Click to expand...

ECMlink clears codes dude..
 
Awesome. I should have read into it further. My mistake. LOL
 
This Saturday im upgadeing the valve springs, retainers and puting a different set of cams on (degreeing them also)....does anyone think this could fix the problem? Does anyone have any other ideas while im in there?
 
Click on the link about 5 posts up. I have 2 logs posted there.

Edit: link of logs is on the 84th post.
 
The tune doesnt look aweful, except you're running too rich to my liking.

You're targeting 11.0 AFR, but its running way richer than that according to your LC-1 which would indicate that an adjustment to global and the MAF sliders.

Total advanced timing looks fine and there is minimal knock, so its not a timing issue.


As soon as you're back on the gas after you shift, LC1WB shows 9.8:1. and it doesnt get much leaner than that thru the whole pull.

Even running it that rich, I dont think thats the issue, but try to lean it out some by lowering the MAF sliders in the areas that its rich.

If you follow this method........DSMlink MAS/MAF Calibration Page , you will be able to target AFR's in the DA tables, and your car will run exactly what you tell it to.
 
91stocker said:
This!

Your parts placing like a mofo and that never ever works.
Click to expand...

Well what do you suggest. What havnt I done that I should do before I just start throwing parts at it? I have done everything suggested and more. I even purchest link just to be able to post logs.
 
By the way, you're MAF sliders are way out of whack. You're throwing a ton of fuel at this thing, probably because your deadtime is way off too for those injectors.

I need a log of a good few minutes of closed loop idle. PM me, and you can send it to my email address, and I can review it at work and whenever else I can..
 
BrokenTsi said:
The tune doesnt look aweful, except you're running too rich to my liking.

You're targeting 11.0 AFR, but its running way richer than that according to your LC-1 which would indicate that an adjustment to global and the MAF sliders.

Total advanced timing looks fine and there is minimal knock, so its not a timing issue.


As soon as you're back on the gas after you shift, LC1WB shows 9.8:1. and it doesnt get much leaner than that thru the whole pull.

Even running it that rich, I dont think thats the issue, but try to lean it out some by lowering the MAF sliders in the areas that its rich.

If you follow this method........DSMlink MAS/MAF Calibration Page , you will be able to target AFR's in the DA tables, and your car will run exactly what you tell it to.
Click to expand...
Yea that is the first time I ever used link. I went to a friends house qnd he walked me through it. He suggested we stay rich to be on the safe side until we figure out the problem. I will be going over to his house again for the upgrades on Saturday so I will lean it out then and save another log. Thanks for the link and for the help.

BrokenTsi said:
By the way, you're MAF sliders are way out of whack. You're throwing a ton of fuel at this thing, probably because your deadtime is way off too for those injectors.

I need a log of a good few minutes of closed loop idle. PM me, and you can send it to my email address, and I can review it at work and whenever else I can..
Click to expand...

Most of my dead time is addressed in the AdjBattVolt or whatever its called section. We will eventually set the deadtime in the fuel tab to 0.

Im in class right now. Ill send you a pm and try to get you a log asap.
 
If you want to be safe, start off at a lower boost level. We need to get this thing dialed in at idle and some closed loop driving to figure out the proper global settings and deadtimes. Then you can start making WOT pulls.

Your front02 voltage is .96 which would indicate that it is indeed running very rich. I still don't think that would cause to boost/slow spool recovery issue.

Honestly, I've never found the need to mess with InjBatteryAdj, but I know some do for those running an EasyTuneBox or whatever that garbage is. I would leave that alone, or put it back to the way it was.

You should repost these logs and a short description of your issue on the ecmlink forums as well if you havent already. We can figure this thing out.
 
BrokenTsi said:
If you want to be safe, start off at a lower boost level. We need to get this thing dialed in at idle and some closed loop driving to figure out the proper global settings and deadtimes. Then you can start making WOT pulls.

Your front02 voltage is .96 which would indicate that it is indeed running very rich. I still don't think that would cause to boost/slow spool recovery issue.

Honestly, I've never found the need to mess with InjBatteryAdj, but I know some do for those running an EasyTuneBox or whatever that garbage is. I would leave that alone, or put it back to the way it was.

You should repost these logs and a short description of your issue on the ecmlink forums as well if you havent already. We can figure this thing out.
Click to expand...

I posted them on the link forums a few weeks back and nevet got a single reply. I bumped it like 6 times also.

I can get you logs but I promised not to change any settings till Saturday.
 
BrokenTsi said:
By the way, you're MAF sliders are way out of whack. You're throwing a ton of fuel at this thing, probably because your deadtime is way off too for those injectors.

I need a log of a good few minutes of closed loop idle. PM me, and you can send it to my email address, and I can review it at work and whenever else I can..
Click to expand...

How do I make sure the car stays In closed loop when getting the log? Isnt it only in closed loop while its warming up or do I have closed and open backwards?
 
You can increase the "open loop thresholds" in dsmlink, so your car doesn't switch to open loop so easily.

v3mafadjcombft [ECMTuning - wiki]

Here is a good explanation about open/closed loop.

fueltrimupdatepoints [ECMTuning - wiki]


Usually, you're car will run open loop while warming up, then switched to closed loop. You can log "closed loop" to see when its in open loop or not, or look at the o2 voltage. If its cycling up and down, its in closed loop.
 
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