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Somthing isn't meshing right with my car???

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Oh ok. I did this when I cruised around 3 different times for the mafcompadj tool. It worked great and the car has never ran better when cruising as it does right now. Ill go out in an hour or two and get the log for you. Thanks.

Ok I'm posting a regular idle log and a closeloopedIdle log. I will also send the email right after this:
 

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Your logs say that Base MAF type is STOCK, but you're using a MAF translator. I'm pretty sure that with a translator, you need to choose which MAF you're using (3" GM maf).

This may explain why you're MAF sliders are way out of whack, and it could be the whole cause of your issue if the dip switches on the translator are screwed up.

Take the cover off, tell me what all the dip switches are set at, and the version of the translator box.

To be honest, I hate that thing, I would get the GM maf cable and toss that thing in the garbage.

disregard. With a translator, you choose "stock" for base type MAF. Its been a few years since I seen a translator. My fault. I still need the settings of the dip switches however.
 
Your logs say that Base MAF type is STOCK, but you're using a MAF translator. I'm pretty sure that with a translator, you need to choose which MAF you're using (3" GM maf).

This may explain why you're MAF sliders are way out of whack, and it could be the whole cause of your issue if the dip switches on the translator are screwed up.

Take the cover off, tell me what all the dip switches are set at, and the version of the translator box.

To be honest, I hate that thing, I would get the GM maf cable and toss that thing in the garbage.

disregard. With a translator, you choose "stock" for base type MAF. Its been a few years since I seen a translator. My fault. I still need the settings of the dip switches however.

The Maf Translator is the very first one that came out (ill edit this post after I come back in from checking). Also all of the knobs on the maft are zeroed out...they have been for years ever since we started tuning with chips. I will not be buying the ECMLink GM Maf cable because I am going SD as soon as I have the tune correct (I already have everything needed for the SD install). I already removed the ground from the ECU to the translator and grounded the translator to the chassis for more accurate results after I make the switch to SD.

EDIT: Just wanted to let you know that my GM Maf isnt in the blow through position it is before the turbo and the BOV is recirculated. Also I wanted to know if I bumped my thread on the link forums if you would paste all of the emails info you sent me on that thread so my friend can see it (and who knows it may strike up interest on it)? I have the same user name on all DSM sites. *The version number is worn off and no longer visible on the translator*
 
I would suggest putting the maf after the turbo. I forgot that it wasnt blow-thru. I've never seen a DSM run it on the intake pipe. Do that real soon, I'd love to see the difference.

Order 3.25" couplers. The 3" ones barely fit over the MAF, its so tight, you have to really stretch it to get a good fitment.
 
I would suggest putting the maf after the turbo. I forgot that it wasnt blow-thru. I've never seen a DSM run it on the intake pipe. Do that real soon, I'd love to see the difference.

Order 3.25" couplers. The 3" ones barely fit over the MAF, its so tight, you have to really stretch it to get a good fitment.

I cant do that because my intercooler piping is solid..only 4 couplers on the whole set up. It wouldnt be worth it at this point. (switching to sd)

I spent 17hrs with today with 2 guys that are very familiar with dsm's and link.
I found out that the reason my mafcomp sliders are so jacked is because I do not have the mesh/honey comb inside the gm maf. One of the guys is going to loan me his so it can be fixed.

After we installed the new valve springs we saw a little improve ment on both full boost and boost recovery. Then we saw a little more improvement when we started adjusting the cam gears all over the place (intake +3, exhaust +6). There is definetly still a problem though because it still takes 2.6 sec to get from 70mph to 90mph.

One of the guys helping me has a friend with the same problem. His car ran fine until he warped the head (overheating) and got a new one. After he put all of his parts into the new head he stated having the issue.

They are convenced that I should get another head to fix the problem.
 
I can tell you now that its not the honey comb in the GM sensor. The first thing I do with every GM maf is knock that thing out and throw it in the garbage and I've never had an issue like yours.


The cam timing sounds like a better solution. Retarding just the exhaust cam gear should help spool the turbo faster. Have you tried that?
 
I can tell you now that its not the honey comb in the GM sensor. The first thing I do with every GM maf is knock that thing out and throw it in the garbage and I've never had an issue like yours.


The cam timing sounds like a better solution. Retarding just the exhaust cam gear should help spool the turbo faster. Have you tried that?

I wasnt saying the gm maf had anything to do with the power or spool problem I just ment thats why the maf sliders are so high. (or is that what you were talkibg about too?)

We spent a lot of time on the cam degree. The first thing we tried was just just retarding the exhaus cam 3 degrees and the car hated it... The only thing it liked was advanceing them which is very strange.

The car felt strong last night but it picked up mph so slow even though during some of the adjustmentd It was flowing 53lbs/min.
 
Yea I talked to one of the guys an hour ago about it. We are removing the head and and taking it to a known race engine builder in Denton Tx. If he says the head is useable ill have him fix it all up. If not ill put all my new stuff in another head and have the place fix it up.
 
What was the installed valve spring height of the new valve spings you just installed? What type of springs were they?

I don't think we measured the installed valve spring height and the springs that were installed were the FP Beehive & retainer kit: Forced Performance Turbochargers: DSM Beehive Spring and Retainer set

I'm going to the dyno soon to get a few pulls to look at the curve and see if its still falling off like before. I think I should at least do that before I start tearing down the head. My mechanic also suggested that I pull the JMF SMIM and TB off and put the stock stuff back on and see what happens before we pull the head off.

Edit: also I am taking the old valve springs and old cams to my mechanic on Tuesday. Hes going to test the spring tension of the springs and the center line of the cams. The FP2s that I had on the car look different that the ones I just installed...they are both directly from FP but I bought mine when the first came out so these other ones are around 5 years newer.
 
Went to the track last Friday and the car was still slow (not a shock). I guess I caused a new problem because I started smelling a bad smell on the way home and when I pulled into my parking spot I saw a trail of fluid following me. Its not oil (doesn't smell like oil and is lighter than oil). My guess is tranny fluid (redline gear oil). I hope it is just the driver side axle seal because I went under the car the best I could using the OEM jack (scary) and couldn't pinpoint the leak or see any holes/cracks. There could be something majorly wrong but I cant get under the car very far since my floor jack isn't working. Most of the fluid seems to be working its way down the bottom engine brace or whatever that's called that has the lower motor mount attached to it.
 
I still don't know what is wrong with my tranny but I went out and checked my cam angle sensor and found out that it was 180* out. I'm not sure if it was always like this or if we put it in wrong when we installed the new cam's and springs/retainers. Hopefully it fixed my slow problem but at this point I doubt it.
 
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