Something wrong with my tranny....

[idoke1]

I've notice a burning smell every time I drive my car. Its a 92 eagle talon tsi awd. 5 speed tranny. Sometimes, when I drive it between 2nd to 3rd, it feels hard putting it into 3rd and hard putting putting it into 4rth. It feels like its stuck but its harder to shift it. I've drain the tranny and saw no metal flakes or anything abnormal. What could be the problem? The clutch feels fine as it engages fine but going to 3rd gear, its harder to put it in gear (Feels like you have to jam it to 3rd and pull it out of 3rd to 4th gear) The funny thing is that it doesn't grind? What could be the possibilities or be the problem????

 

[born2tune]

I've notice a burning smell every time I drive my car. Its a 92 eagle talon tsi awd. 5 speed tranny. Sometimes, when I drive it between 2nd to 3rd, it feels hard putting it into 3rd and hard putting putting it into 4rth. It feels like its stuck but its harder to shift it. I've drain the tranny and saw no metal flakes or anything abnormal. What could be the problem? The clutch feels fine as it engages fine but going to 3rd gear, its harder to put it in gear (Feels like you have to jam it to 3rd and pull it out of 3rd to 4th gear) The funny thing is that it doesn't grind? What could be the possibilities or be the problem????

possibly could be something simple like your shifter bushings are busted, then if thats not it then your clutch slave cylinder might be bad, but these are cheap fixes, because i dont know about trannys other than messing around with the clutch,

 

[idoke1]

It could be the shifter bushings... but its strange.... Sometimes it only does it.... say 1 out of every 15-20 times.... I'll check the shift linkage

 

[chipchip]

Maybe the syncros are going bad?

 

[Jerkychew]

I'm thinking it could be your slave cylinder. Pull the boot back to see if it is leaking. I know when I had one go out on my mazda I could hardly get it into gear for awhile got harder and harder until it just didn't happen. The burning smell is probably your clutch slipping either from it not fully engaging or an unrelated problem.

 

[idoke1]

I'm thinking it could be your slave cylinder. Pull the boot back to see if it is leaking. I know when I had one go out on my mazda I could hardly get it into gear for awhile got harder and harder until it just didn't happen. The burning smell is probably your clutch slipping either from it not fully engaging or an unrelated problem.

The slave cylinder seems to be good. Checked it and found no leaks. As for the burning smell.... f*ck.... what could be the damn problem....???

 

[WickedQuikAWD]

It could be that your shifter cables are stretched and worn. a fray in the cable or other similar obstruction could cause the feeling of stubborn shifts. New cables completely change the feel of the shift pattern for the better. Keep us posted as you learn more.

 

[idoke1]

Does it feel like the car has to kick when it shifts into 3rd or 4th gear?

No, it actually goes in gear fine but it feels jammed and you have to pull it out. It sometimes does this and the weirdest issue is that it doesn't grind? Most of other vehicles I've own never did this and the worst was just a grind.

It could be that your shifter cables are stretched and worn. a fray in the cable or other similar obstruction could cause the feeling of stubborn shifts. New cables completely change the feel of the shift pattern for the better. Keep us posted as you learn more.

I'll check on that. Damn... I might as well pull out the whole damn thing and see if anything else could be wrong...

 

[Lofty]

Don't pull it just yet. I've posted this before and I'll post it again.

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The release bearing arm and the pivot ball will wear over time. Replacing both is one way to deal with the problem. Adding a washer or two under the arm is another way. DO NOT ADD A SHIM TO A NEW FORK AND BALL.

When the transmission is first installed in the car and just bolted down to the motor, this is the time to check the wear on the arm and ball. Checking it right that moment will save hours of hassle later! Look at where the arm protrudes out through the square boot on the front lower bell housing. With the arm pushed over towards the passenger side so that the release bearing is just touching the clutch, the arm should be either in the center of the square hole or towards the driver's side of center line.

If the arm is sitting off towards the passenger side, you need to pull the transmission back out and add a washer or two. This gets things back in line. If you don't, the hydraulics in trying to take up all the extra slack, will push the arm over and bottom out on the inner bell housing. If you are fighting clutch adjustment problems on an existing clutch install, get under the car and check this out. If you remove a crossmember to see it better, you can pull off the rubber boot and look in the bell housing with a flash light while an assistant pushes on the clutch pedal. You may see the arm hitting the inner bell housing.

If you are having problems with a clutch adjustment, don't be tempted to try to lengthen the clutch slave cylinder rod. It may work for a few symptoms (worn pedal assembly mostly) but it is not the right way to fix things. In order to take up additional free play, it puts constant pressure on the release bearing.

Check your syncros.

Put it in neutral. Clutch out. Slowly slide it into each gear. Still clutch out. Healthy syncros will bog down the engine. Unhealthy syncros will just grind and try to go straight into gear. Slowly and gently try this.

Is your clutch pedal assembly going bad? Do you have a lot of free play before the clutch disengages? Look into this.

See if your clutch is properly dragging.
Put your car in first, clutch in, on a flat surface.
Rev up to 6k
If your car starts to jump forward doing that, your clutch is dragging.
Fix it!

Hope I helped!!

<3 Lofty

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

Do exactly as Lofty posted above.

The only other thing I'd check before hand is to follow the instructions in your manual to adjust the shifter linkages. When I had my GSX I dropped the tranny multiple times. One two occasions I had a similar issue with 3rd and 4th gear. Just make sure your cables are adjusted properly before you get into anything too heavy. It's best to go with the small things and work your way up, just in case it's something minor. Don't want to go wasting time and money.

 

[idoke1]

Don't pull it just yet. I've posted this before and I'll post it again.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

The release bearing arm and the pivot ball will wear over time. Replacing both is one way to deal with the problem. Adding a washer or two under the arm is another way. DO NOT ADD A SHIM TO A NEW FORK AND BALL.

When the transmission is first installed in the car and just bolted down to the motor, this is the time to check the wear on the arm and ball. Checking it right that moment will save hours of hassle later! Look at where the arm protrudes out through the square boot on the front lower bell housing. With the arm pushed over towards the passenger side so that the release bearing is just touching the clutch, the arm should be either in the center of the square hole or towards the driver's side of center line.

If the arm is sitting off towards the passenger side, you need to pull the transmission back out and add a washer or two. This gets things back in line. If you don't, the hydraulics in trying to take up all the extra slack, will push the arm over and bottom out on the inner bell housing. If you are fighting clutch adjustment problems on an existing clutch install, get under the car and check this out. If you remove a crossmember to see it better, you can pull off the rubber boot and look in the bell housing with a flash light while an assistant pushes on the clutch pedal. You may see the arm hitting the inner bell housing.

If you are having problems with a clutch adjustment, don't be tempted to try to lengthen the clutch slave cylinder rod. It may work for a few symptoms (worn pedal assembly mostly) but it is not the right way to fix things. In order to take up additional free play, it puts constant pressure on the release bearing.

Check your syncros.

Put it in neutral. Clutch out. Slowly slide it into each gear. Still clutch out. Healthy syncros will bog down the engine. Unhealthy syncros will just grind and try to go straight into gear. Slowly and gently try this.

Is your clutch pedal assembly going bad? Do you have a lot of free play before the clutch disengages? Look into this.

See if your clutch is properly dragging.
Put your car in first, clutch in, on a flat surface.
Rev up to 6k
If your car starts to jump forward doing that, your clutch is dragging.
Fix it!

Hope I helped!!

<3 Lofty

I just looked backed at my old post and this my problem was bad tranny fluid. I changed it out and now it shifts fine into gear. My other problem is that it won't go into gear at high RPMs. Only from 2nd and 4th gear having issues at high rpms.... damn....