Some questions on running a non turbo block

[Haytees]

Okay well its been awhile since i have had the chance to mess with my Talon

I have a new set of OEM pistons
All other turbo parts

and i was wondering if using this as a daily driver for a few months while i build the turbo block as my first DSM build, if it would be un reliable?

like are the oil squirters that big of a problem if im not beating her?
I've read on it a bit, but as with everything i search there is mixed responses


And another question...
Has anyone repaired rust on their rocker panels?
mine have gotten pretty bad and i am quite handy at welding.
but should i try to cut some off a junked car if they are in nice condition, or is that a bad idea


Looking forward to hearing from ya

Haytees

 

[dsmrebel084]

The pistons you bought are non turbo pistons?

 

[Haytees]

The pistons you bought are non turbo pistons?

sorry sorry they are turbo pistons and rods

 

[1990AWD]

I'm confused, are you asking if it's okay to run a turbo on a stock non-turbo block while you build a new block?

 

[Haytees]

yes i am

 

[spyder1219]

im interested to know this as well. ive found a long block for 50$ locally. Seems almost a no brainer to pick it up for spare parts, even if it is a NT. Nobody have a response to this?

 

[BrokenTsi]

Yes, you can do it if you're just going to daily drive it. Oil squirters are nice and all, but they are not necessary. I don't use them and I daily drive my car.

I had a buddy who did the exact same thing you're doing. He stuck a non-turbo engine block in his 1g AWD and he drove it to school for a few years. He even boosted it at 15psi on a 14b without any issues as well.


BTW, I am using a N/T block in my car with Manley Rods/Mahle Pistons......~700whp.

 

[Colip]

I don't know of any problems, many guys delete oil squirters for one reason or another. There have been guys making HUGE power on hyundai blocks with no squirters for quite some time; on a sensibly tuned car it's not something that i'd shy away from. Pick it up.

- Jon

 

[bastarddsm]

in about 15 min every "know it all" is going to say that you can't. They will say that the ringlands are different and the n/t pistons are weaker. All of these statements without any first hand knowledge.

Well, I have run them, and they work fine. Yes, if you get crazy you can knock the ringlands off the pistons, but you can do that with a turbo motor too. If you'r running one of these with an afc or don't have a way to tune your timing curves you'll want to set your base timing to like 3* to compensate for the extra 1.2 points of compression.

I personally have made over 300awhp with one and a blown china gt.

I have had the motors apart side by side, and the ring lands are in the same position, and they are the same size. The rings are different, but thats minor. The rods are identical, as is the crank. The FSM confirms that as well. The blocks are almost the same other than the squirters. I have been told, but never taken the time to confirm, that the knock sensor location isn't there on a n/t block. I always just put it where ever I felt like.

And of course the cam timing is different to. I always just ran n/t cams.

 

[SmoochDarling]

Very interesting bastarddsm. thx for that input.

As for the rocker panels, depending on the rust it might be easier to just cut them off another car and reweld at that the factory welds. it will be much easier to clean up and paint after that. Welding in a patch section on the rockers is not easy, plus it takes a lot more time to prep to paint.

Good luck on the build!

 

[Haytees]

Thanks for all the advice. I actually purchased a nt block already. Has a 2g head freshly rebuilt can't tell what kind of pistons by they look immaculate .

wWelll we got her put in my car... Fired up instantly but started to spit oil out of one of the seals by the hydraulic tensioner... Changed the oil pump and seals last night. Now just have to throw the transfer case back on and re time her.


Pray for the best

 

[anchew02]

i bought a non turbo block for 450$ from a importer compared to 1500, pull pistons and rods, threw on turbo pistons on the removed rods, put it all back together with my turbo cams in and i never had a problem at all!!!

 

[Gasolinebaptism]

Go ahead and put some gasket sealer on the bolts for the hydraulic tensioner. Those bolts go through the front case into an oil passageway, and can leak like a sive from there.

 

[19Eclipse90]

Go ahead and put some gasket sealer on the bolts for the hydraulic tensioner. Those bolts go through the front case into an oil passageway, and can leak like a sive from there.

I can't speak for certain on the 7-bolt engines (I imagine it being about the same), but this isn't true with either of the holes on the 6-bolt I've got in storage. The fact that the bottom bolt hole is so close to the main oil passage from the pump to the filter housing is, in my opinion, the main reason oil might slip past the gasket and leak from that hole. But it absolutely does not go into an oil passage.

Use a thread sealant if you're going to use anything.

 

[spyder1219]

So we have established that while running a turbo setup (ie swap pistons and rods and crank and oil pan) the blocks only differ in the oil-squirters?

 

[Colt4G63 also]

So we have established that while running a turbo setup (ie swap pistons and rods and crank and oil pan) the blocks only differ in the oil-squirters?

That is correct.

 

[1990AWD]

So we have established that while running a turbo setup (ie swap pistons and oil pan) the blocks only differ in the oil-squirters?

Fixed. (rods and crank are the same.)

 

[spyder1219]

haha, perfect. Thanks for clearing me up for me.