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SOLID front/rear aluminum motor mounts!

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It just says eclipse in my profile, because there are no provisions for mirage or colt in the horsepower list. So a 90 FWD eclipse was the closest I could get.

Steven
 
Regardless of drivetrain lose; if you say both cars had same weight and mods etc,
and If both cars dyno'd equal "power"
and the AWD pulled a 1.7 and the FWD pulled a 1.9
and driving was the same, how would the FWD pull around the AWD, if they had the same power/weight but the AWD still took off faster? And isnt the AWD gearing more ideal for the track...

You said it right there my friend. Rotating mass is what helps on the top side. That's why there are Alum. driveshafts, light-weight flywheels. Even if they are the same weight it doesn't mean they share the same weight in the same area.
 
You said it right there my friend. Rotating mass is what helps on the top side. That's why there are Alum. driveshafts, light-weight flywheels. Even if they are the same weight it doesn't mean they share the same weight in the same area.

But he said if they were the same power, so that already factors in the drivetrain lose...
How I see it, same power is same power, it would just mean the one with more drivetrain lose would
need a tad bit more boost or something else to close the gap and supposing both cars for this example
weighed the same amount, but the AWD pulled 1.7, and the FWD pulled 1.9 I dont see how the fwd would pass the AWD, especially since the AWD is geared better for 1/4mile acceleration... Thats just what makes sense to me though.

Sorry this is way off topic anyways and not trying to start a debate nor
pick at what Dsmonster said originally, I was just throwing in my confusion to the statement.
 
But he said if they were the same power, so that already factors in the drivetrain lose...
Really, no I didn't :confused: Having "the same engine mods" means that the whp is obviously different between the two. Favoring fwd, though the fwd is much cheaper to purchase at this time. Also, an AWD weighs 3-400 lbs more and say it gains .2sec at the 60ft vs. a decently set up FWD (1.7 vs 1.9). So what happens at the end of the track even if the wheel hp is the same? If you can achieve a 1.9sec 60ft with your fwd, then you DEFINATELY have a chance to match an AWD with the same engine mods by the 1/4 mile.

And a FWD is geared better for its particular drivetrain, IMHO.

Yea, this is way off topic. I didn't really bring up another topic to talk about it in paricular, just to show the potential of the product discussed.
 
^^^^^

This is what I am talking about. Are you serious? Look at how active this thread has been.
 
^^^^^

This is what I am talking about. Are you serious? Look at how active this thread has been.

I know exactly what you are talking about. Not reading is just being lazy. They could have found that answer on this page.

Anybody looking for contact info, it is on the FIRST PAGE. I will make it even easier for the lazy people that don't want to read, it is post #13.

Quite a bit of these posts wouldn't even be here if people just read instead of asking for contact info. Then the thread wouldn't be as long which might (I doubt it) convince people to read before posting.
 
Steven, are we allowed to call these mounts the "Biglady mod?"

"I was getting a lot of wheel hop, until I did the Biglady mod."


Just a thought. :D
 
Steve, don't pay no mind to those newbies. You've got plenty of support and admiration behind you.
 
Yea in our 2G. Most folks would get annoyed with the car a lot. It is a track only car, and a lot of stuff to make four digit horsepower numbers some day we hope. So we just want to get it all to the ground and keep chassis flex to a minimum.

Steven
 
"I was getting a lot of wheel hop, until I did the Biglady mod."

It has a catchy ring to it!LOL



I'm seriously considering doing all four. :D F**k Prothanes.

I don't know that this would be a good idea. I ran the poly inserts for front/rear and stock sides for 2 years with very minimal increase in vibrations. Then I did the Windo-Weld on the side mounts. This last mod didn't give much improvement in wheel hop, etc but the increase in vibrations was quite a bit.

As it is with the solids on front/rear I can't get wheel hop at all and shifting is very good so I wonder how much room for improvement there is by doing the sides also.

But I would be very interested if you were to do the solid front/rear with stock side mounts for awhile. Then do the Prothane replacements for the sides to compare (hint!):sneaky:. This might give a good idea of just how much of a role the side mounts play with regards to wheel hop, shifting, etc. Based on my experience and Steven's last post I'm kind of getting the impression that the side mounts are very important for absorbing vibrations and not as important with regards to performance aspects.
 
FWIW guys, I still run the factory 123,xxx miles stock mounts.

Steven
 
So I was talking to my uncle (who has 25+ years experience with drag racing muscle cars) about solid mounts. He still has his OEM mounts installed on his '85 Camaro. He just hasn't gotten around to installing his polyurethanes.

He brought up and interesting point about solids cracking/damaging the frame. The vibration has to take a tole on something somewhere. He also noted that other things also have the possibility of wearing/breaking faster.

All thoughts are welcome, of course.

Just thinking out loud - with these mounts perhaps things like steering responsivness and braking may also become improved.
 
I can say that braking has improved. The car responds when the pedal is depressed. No chassis slop or nose dive anymore.

Your uncles car also is a lead sled and the engine is configured the correct way. Our engines are facing the wrong direction andare trying to jump out of the engine bay each time the gas is pressed. Nor is his car a wheel hopping machine like the AWD and FWD mistubishis.

Steven
 
Just thinking out loud - with these mounts perhaps things like steering responsivness and braking may also become improved.

I agree with Steven. The car's response to all inputs (throttle, braking, etc.) is much crisper now. The car is just so much more fun to drive with this mod. You give up a bit of comfort for a big gain in performance.:thumb:
 
I read the thread twice already, LOL. I somehow skipped the part where biglady said to email him, sorry guys. All I got was around $40+8.95 shipping. I was trying to have possibly the information such as paypal and the direct amount needed to go ahead and send the money, for others to use as well. Sorry guys, chill out!
 
^^^^^

This is what I am talking about. Are you serious? Look at how active this thread has been.

has been, i tried to get in on that 16g waste gate mod by Mr. Peepers, but he wasn't doing it anymore because he was bombarded with people who wanted it done... i guess how i should have worded it was "Once i find some spare motor mounts, i really hope this is still available, that way i can send them off to you and get solids for $50..."

:rolleyes: sorry for the stupidity
 
I guess I live in a different world. I have a toy and a daily driver. So it is no big deal for me to pull my mounts if I had to. That is all I get from people. Well "if" I can find some mounts I would love this. If you want them you will make and effort for them. So no simpathy from me that you can't take care of business. If I want something for my car, my wife, or anything for the matter, I am going to make every effort I can for it. I usually don't half ass and blow smoke up people's ass. But not everyone can be like me. We have four cars and there is only two of us. Once we started making big power and breaking stuff, we learned long ago that a dsm cannot be the only vechicle.

And for the record there are currently four sets of mounts down at the shop getting worked on. So yea, this is still going on.

Steven
 
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