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soft clutch pedal, wont disengage

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k3k0a

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Jan 12, 2003
Ive changed everything, and tried everything.... i got an 90awd, i had a fidanza flywheel with a 2600 in it and it did not disengage, now i have a stock clutch and flywheel, Ive tried everything that i could find using search. and it still does not disengage, Ive bled the system countless times and still nothing... but for some reason i don't get any pedal pressure. i have not driven this car i bought it from my friend with this problem. he said that the slave and master was brand new..... the clutch pedal was bad so i took it out and welded it, and i got a steel braided line. no matter how much i bleed the pedal pressure still feels like a gas pedal.... does anyone know what could be the problem? even though the cylinders are new could they still be bad? Ive also checked for leaks and there are none.... my friend was talking about the master cylinder just "blowing thru" ### help
 
Make sure your throwout arm isn't bent. Lift the boot of the master cylinder up there under the dash and see if it's wet. Check that your bell housing bolts aren't loose.
 
the fork is new and the trans is bolted up tight.... and there are no leaks from the cylinders
 
UPDATE:
ok i got it into gear but it scratches and grinds every gear, i cut all of the padding from behind the clutch pedal and adjusted the master cylinder till it was barely holding on the last thread.... so first thing im gonna try is extend the rod on the master..... but if that dont work what else could i try?
 
this is my answer to all disengagement problems and im stickin to it because in all the years ive dealt with these problems...99% of the time this fixed it. shim the pivot ball with two 1/8'' washers. i know its a pain takin all the shit back out but it does the trick. you could use the extended rod, and it may work, but if not..shim da' bi***.
 
most likely your issue is with the design of the 1g petal, the petal is connected to another pivoting arm through a rod that goes past the brake and gas petals, this pivot arm goes onto the rod with a slotted hole and is held into place with a 14mm nut and lock washer. this is the same pivot arm that your clutch master cylinder goes onto. over time the nut loosens and the slotted hole starts to round out which make a decreased throw in the master cylinder. The way ive delt with this problem is A the easy way by pulling your petal all the way up while torquing this nut back down or B take the petal assy out allign the pivot arm to where it should be and torque the nut down and tack weld into place
 
just got a new master cylinder today (freebie) so im gonna try it out. and i did take out the pedal assembly and welded the arm.
 
I'm in the same situation except the only thing left for me is the slave cylinder and the braided line.

I am starting to wonder about my NEW master cylinder now though, too -- because it suffered some abuse (boot slid off a couple of times) from taking the clutch pedal assembly in and out a couple times. The master is only about 5000 miles old though.

Keep us posted.
 
awww riite..... it works. turns out the "new master cylinder" wasnt so new after all, thanks everyone for their help. only thing i gotta fix now is the weird sounds coming from the front suspension when i turn.
 
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