So my head is cracked! Pics included.

[mmmmbst]

So i finally found my boost leak. I tested it 2 days ago and found a leak, but figured it was the gasket. I ordered a new Magnus gasket, and when I pulled the manifold off, this is what I found. The questions are: Can this be welded? What do you think caused this? Has this happened to anyone else? Also, where do you think that oil above the injectors is coming from?

<a href="http://s137.photobucket.com/albums/q238/mmmmbst/?action=view&current=P1010020.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q238/mmmmbst/P1010020.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

<a href="http://s137.photobucket.com/albums/q238/mmmmbst/?action=view&current=P1010024.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q238/mmmmbst/P1010024.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

 

[jrohner]

It a casting flaw, even if it was a crack it's not on the port anyways so it wouldn't cause a leak. Make sure the head and intake mating surfaces are very clean and smooth and put the new gasket in. It was probably just your intake gasket leaking, mine leaked like crazy. Be sure to check all the vacuum lines (or eliminate them) and your injector seals so you're sure none of them are leaking.

 

[pboglio]

If it is a crack, and I'm talking about that faint jagged line running across the port sealing surface about middle high on number 2 cylinder then you could JB weld the OUTSIDE port surface where the crack goes thru and just lightly file back the gasket seating surface once the JB weld has cured. Then slap a coating of copper spray, hylomar, or whatever on both sides of your MAGNUS intake manifold gasket/heat blocker and call it good, leak all fixed. But at least do everybody a favor and buy some brake clean or Permatex gasket remover spray and CLEAN that gasket mating surface cause nobody can tell what is going on with all the oil residue on there.

 

[mmmmbst]

is this the crack your talking about?

<a href="http://s137.photobucket.com/albums/q238/mmmmbst/?action=view&current=P1010034a.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q238/mmmmbst/P1010034a.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

 

[gsxeclipse97]

I do not see a crack either. I would advise a stock gasket as well and then try. also you said you felt air coming from there. are you sure is was not from your injector seal? I find it hard to believe that it just cracked for no reason. I have spun bearings and the piston was banging against the head and it did not crack so i would search more before pulling the head off.

 

[SnowBird]

I thought the OP was referring to the RED as being the crack since thats what you centered in the photo. The BLUE was definetly leaking, you can see all the smudge. You shoulda highlighted the leak, half the people on here think you are talking about the casting. JB weld it.

 

[BoredDSM]

Have you put your intake manifold on a flat surface and make sure that isn't warped either? I see a few cracks but cant really tell. Try cleaning the surface with some throttle body cleaner and a rag. Post up some pics after that.

 

[mmmmbst]

Well the crack i was talking about was obvious the red one. The 1st 2nd and 3rd cyl all has poop around the gasket. But, thats not where it was leaking, Thats why I figured the obvious red crack was the problem.

 

[No_Skillz]

The red is not a crack. I thought you were referring to the hairline scratch at the 3 o'clock position of the #1 runner. I didn't even notice the blue one. That could be a problem.

 

[TSI27]

Put the gasket and intake manifold back on and get some carb cleaner. Start the car then put the little hose attatchment thing on it and spray in that area if you think its a crack. If the car idle changes when you spray then your letting the carb cleaner in which obviously means you have a crack. You can also use starter fluid.

 

[mmmmbst]

I cleaned up the mating face on the head and the manifold also. I put the new gasket on and put it back together. The car feels a lil bit better but, i have to wait till tuesday when the auto hobby shop is open on base to do another boost leak test to see if it sealed. Thanks to everyone who chimed in! I will post back up then with some results. Hopefully it worked.

 

[Evil_speedracer]

Ever heard of this stuff for aluminum repair?

Dura Fix Aluminum Welding Aluminum Brazing Aluminum Soldering & Repair Rod

Cliffs:

Its like solder for aluminum, you just get a yellow bottle torch and heat the surface you are working with. The rods melt right into the crack, or over holes easy with no drip-in. I saw a demo on youtube where the guy had a hard time drilling through his new fix...I'm going to try it on cracks found on my transmission.

 

[turboglenn]

Ever heard of this stuff for aluminum repair?

Dura Fix Aluminum Welding Aluminum Brazing Aluminum Soldering & Repair Rod

Cliffs:

Its like solder for aluminum, you just get a yellow bottle torch and heat the surface you are working with. The rods melt right into the crack, or over holes easy with no drip-in. I saw a demo on youtube where the guy had a hard time drilling through his new fix...I'm going to try it on cracks found on my transmission.

I use that stuff all the time for light duty aluminum repairs or just to show some one i can braze 2 pop cans' together without even cleaning them.

BUt, I would NOT use it to repair a cylinder head.. It's meting point is too low and it's tensile strength is too low for an important application (they over rate it on that site for sure)

Just get some one that's good with TIG and has an Oxy torch and some time... Welding to an aluminum casting that's exposed to fuels and hydrocarbons will be VERY contaminated and will need to be cleaned, welded then ground and welded again...this process will have have to be done at least 3 - 4 times to finally boil all the oils and crap out of the casting and get a cood clean solid weld.....

 

[mmmmbst]

That just sounds like too much. It would probable be easier to get a new head. Plus with that it eliminated the possibility of having further problem if it does not work as planned, especially with $200 for the head gasket and studs combined plus my time into it.