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snapping axels 1g

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DSM's 4 life

10+ Year Contributor
649
14
Nov 13, 2011
Buffalo, New York
I currently have a 1990 1g dsm and i have gone through two axels in a week my axels are 3 bolt and are breaking where they enter the diff. causing me to have to remove the non broken axel pop it out from the opposite side. I know people talk of 4 Bolts being stronger what part is actually beefier could the splines be swapped over?
 
the 4 bolts are bigger where you are breaking them. it's 1-2mm bigger. I'd wager that you would break 4 bolts too though. you have to be very easy on the clutch or you will break tons of parts.
Couldn't agree more. You can have fairly massive power on stock drivetrain parts and if your launching and shifting techniques are good then you can get away with it without breaking parts so often. Bashing parts is usually slower anyways. As always, smoother is faster. You don't really want to dump the clutch, its more of a quick release of the pedal. Sarch around and pick what you think will be the best launching technique. There's things like preloading with the E-brake, getting rolling a bit before "dropping" the clutch (3-5mph and again you are trying not to shock the drivetrain so be mindful of what exactly you are doing with your left foot), combining the two (my personal choice which generally allows the tires to maintain traction and provides more consistent times since you are not shocking them and spinning them. Also prevents wheel-hop in most cases), as well as many other options depending on turbo setup, driving style, etc. The main thing to be mindful of for any successful launch is smooth and consistent clutch operation without shocking the drivetrain, especially while launching in order to spare parts from becoming a pile of rubble. But I highly suggest swapping to a 4 bolt rear if you are making more than 280whp.

Edit: Wait wait wait!! You're running an SBC through a stock 3-bolt rear? With that kind of torque able to be applied why didn't you swap the rear end out? Maybe for a GM 8 inch or something that won't break all the time. You're not going to use any DSM rear diff in a RWD application and expect it not to break, especially if you're putting any real power through it.
 
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