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Sinister 8" converter shows promising results

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I asked mike about a 2.3 6262 car and he said level 1 8".

He mentioned the stock stator will keep the converter tight on the top end and the smaller size is what will give it that higher stall on the low end.
 
Ok, the custom stators are not gonna happen.

So I pulled the level 5 8" and received a level 1 8".

Quick foot brake test.

No nitrous
Charge pipes connected
Trans temp was under 100*
Coolant temp 180*, tstat barely opened up.
John Deer HyGard Regular viscosity

Floored it for about 5 seconds and the revs came up to about 3500 and crept up to 4000. Built about 2 psi at most. Tomorrow I'll put the bottle in and do some more tests with a 50 shot dry jet, and the 75 I used to run to spool up the 40R.

Its not a huge improvement over the 9", but it already shows better results just on the foot brake. So I really think it will be what I am looking for. Worst case scenario, a level 2 8" might do the trick.

That's all the noise I could make in the garage tonight. I'll post up more results in a couple days when the roads ain't wet. I think I may only need a 35 dry at the line to spool up the 4202, and the 75 to wake it up out the hole. I'm sure both the converter and the turbo will react well to the juice.


On a side note (here we go again), the idle is nicer with the extra weight of the converter
 
Ahh the new 8 inch offers a higher stall than the 10 inch.Awsome, we should do a group buy and see if we can get the price down a bit.

Really?

The guy has been pouring his time into developing this for us 1G auto guys. Not to mention my time dropping the trans, oils (REDLINE fluids@ 11/qt and JD HYGard at 95$ for 5 gallons), shipping, etc., and you want it CHEAPER?

He is doing us a huge favor by improving what little converter choices us 1G guys have. Lets not drive him out of the market, before he even starts.
 
Im a dsmer come on man.

Dsmer=Cheapass.ROFL

Well I'll buy it at the regular price as long as my girl don't find out I'm spending 600$ on a converter.LOL

She almost killed me when I bought a new turbo for christ sakes.Maybe it's just my girl, but still.
 
You should buy a real converter someday, the last Yank that I bought go a 4l80 was 1100, and that was just a street car.... Auto cars live and die on the converter, not a place to cheap out.
 
You should buy a real converter someday, the last Yank that I bought go a 4l80 was 1100, and that was just a street car.... Auto cars live and die on the converter, not a place to cheap out.

Exactly! They go well upwards of 1000 dollars in the V8 world. We still have it cheap compared to everyone else.

So here are some results. Looks like its all I can get until the rain clears out of here so I can test drive the car.

The 50 shot is to much at the line. I can hit it and build up 20 psi on the 4202 at about 4700 rpms.

I settled for a small 35 shot dry jet since it'll be all I need. Overall the converter takes about 4-5 seconds to hit the 5000rpm 2 step. This is what I had it set at before (on the level 5) AND now it builds twice the amount of boost with the 35 shot, on the 2 step. You bet, I will be dropping my launch rpms down a bit. On the 35 shot I got it up to 5200 rpms in 4 seconds and built 14-16 psi. So needless to say, I'm happy with where this is going.

On the level 5 and no nitrous, I could stall up the converter to 5k in 2 seconds and only build 7-8 psi tops. So the extra weight and the tighter internals are showing their face with the level 1.

I do think under full load, the revs will sit up in the rpms like the level 5 did, but not as high. Im hoping for the revs to shoot up to 7000-7500 rpms, then rip from there.

The first test with the 50 shot got the trans temps up to 150*. They stayed there the whole time while I was testing, and didnt climb like the level 5 tests did. Instant indicator that this converter is a bit more efficient, wouldn't you guys agree?

I think the 35R sized turbo guys will be happy with no nitrous on the level 1 8 inch. I dont think this will be a converter for the 16G sized turbo guys.
 
Ted, have you considered using a smaller exhaust housing to make this converter work without any shot ?
Thanx for all your efforts :hellyeah:
 
I think the 35R sized turbo guys will be happy with no nitrous on the level 1 8 inch. I dont think this will be a converter for the 16G sized turbo guys.

Not a converter for the smaller turbo guys.I know it's a really stupid question,But why?

I think the small turbo guys would love it..I could build 10 psi on my 16g with no 2 step, and a stock Converter.But If I could stall to 4k and leave at 20 psi, I don't see an issue there.

And the 68hta guys would love it, 20g guys.I mean if you can get 15 psi out of a 35r, I mean the small turbo guys would have a hayday with this converter.
 
Ted, have you considered using a smaller exhaust housing to make this converter work without any shot ?
Thanx for all your efforts :hellyeah:

Its a GT42. I already have the smallest turbine housing I would like to go to and where I'm aiming, a smaller turbing will start hurting things in the upper rpms. I have another motor in the works that will work without the nitrous, but thats not going to be in the car untill late summer or next year sometime.

Not a converter for the smaller turbo guys.I know it's a really stupid question,But why?

I think the small turbo guys would love it..I could build 10 psi on my 16g with no 2 step, and a stock Converter.But If I could stall to 4k and leave at 20 psi, I don't see an issue there.

And the 68hta guys would love it, 20g guys.I mean if you can get 15 psi out of a 35r, I mean the small turbo guys would have a hayday with this converter.

A hayday breaking parts.

Tq/load vs launch rpms. A smaller turbo makes more torque down low vs a bigger turbo. Then there is the efficiency factor of the turbo and setup. I don't know of anyone that revs a 16G turbo past 7500-8000 rpms. Thats where these 8" converters start "locking up". Thats why I mention to contact Mike@sinister speed to get you setup with the right converter. There isn't a one size fits all with these things, as we are all learning about them.
 
Righ right.I understand,But caramic brakes are the only thing holding my car now.So a larger stall rate would allow the brakes to work less.

But on a smaller turbo we don't need 5000 rpm stalls.

One day I will go larger turbo, but not anytime soon.I like the low rpm spool to much to go big right now.

I like having lower rpm spool.4k is too much for me right now, maybe 3.5k. But the converter would make my brakes work less.And not break things like you said.
 
Ted, so based on your experience, would you say that the level 1 would work fairly well for a T3 6152 turbo and no nitrous?. I guess thats in the same ballpark as a 35r. Another concern is trans temperature levels. I dont daily drive my talon but will do some "spirited driving" on the streets and dont want lots of heat. Can this be driven on the freeway without getting too hot?
 
Some high torque converters should not be driven on the street..Take my Hughes for instance,it acts just like a stocker when city driving, but, you do have to watch the trans temp gauge on a regular basis..Sometimes stop and go traffic will heat it up and driving on the interstate will also if your going up hill for a few minutes or going 70+ mph....
I have two coolers and each have a fan on them...I also use Amsoil which also helps it run cooler...
 
Because that converter is going to slip like a bi*** LOL. He saying they start to lock up at 8k. Which is the same reason why you wouldn't use it on a 16g car.

Hmm well a stock 16g is going to loose boost at 8k anyway.So if your running a 16g at 8k have fun with that.LOL

Some high torque converters should not be driven on the street..Take my Hughes for instance,it acts just like a stocker when city driving, but, you do have to watch the trans temp gauge on a regular basis..Sometimes stop and go traffic will heat it up and driving on the interstate will also if your going up hill for a few minutes or going 70+ mph....
I have two coolers and each have a fan on them...I also use Amsoil which also helps it run cooler...

Ahh yes, now I am getting more info into this brain.
 
Not a converter for the smaller turbo guys.I know it's a really stupid question,But why?

I think the small turbo guys would love it..I could build 10 psi on my 16g with no 2 step, and a stock Converter.But If I could stall to 4k and leave at 20 psi, I don't see an issue there.

And the 68hta guys would love it, 20g guys.I mean if you can get 15 psi out of a 35r, I mean the small turbo guys would have a hayday with this converter.

I can build whatever I can hold back on the brakes on the stock converter.

I launch at about 20psi probably; I think my 2-step is now set at 3500, so it's at least possible to hold it back.
 
ive been reading on stalls alot of people are getting and some people arent able to get much boost stalling.. my car is apart at the moment, but, when i drove it i could stall my 16g to 20 psi almost instantly.. rpm would rise to about 3800~ max.. there was no hesitation in the boost gauge just straight up..

i switched to an hx-35 and some cams and i can STILL spool it to 20 psi, and slowly rise to 3800~, not as fast but within 3 seconds..

my motor has 180k, cylinder pressure is 120-130..(wore out), and the trans was stock... and if i pumped brakes up good and held e brake right i could hold it all day long.. my car i did this on was a 95 gst...so was that a fluke that i had no problem stalling??
 
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