Shut Down - while driving

[MightyRiga]

Well, my clutch is...being a bi***.

First off, it only has ~2500-3000 miles on it. It isn't very resistant, not compared to new. I'm thinking it's just finally broken in though. However, at idle, if you rest your foot on it, it feels like it is slipping. Not putting much pressure on, just resting. Also, push it as hard as you can to the floor it feels as if there is something in there rubbing around. However, it still shifts fine and everything, it just effects initial movement.

The real problem: Shut downs. It used to be just after driving hard, then coming to a stop. Push the clutch in, and if I don't down shift (to engine brake) soon enough, the car is off. Naturally, it's a hot shutdown, so it takes some coaxing (namely the gas pedal) to get it going again. Then, once it gets going, it is reluctant to keep going (typical hot shut down).

Well, today on my way to town, driving easily at about 65mph, exit the highway, car shuts down. Restart it while rolling, stop at the light. Extremely rough idle (about 500ish RPM), with the oil light flickering.

On the way home, ran normal (minus the unresistant clutch part).

96 Stock TSi.

 

[Eclipse98_RS]

I still have the problem when im at high RPMs and i hit the clutch in it will come close to dying.
Its gotten better with a BISS screw adjustment but it still happens every once in awhile.
But ive only heard of this happening to modded cars. If your car is stock then that is a different issue.

 

[luv2rallye]

Did you check for vacuum leaks?

 

[saintsairforce]

I was having a simular problem when I bought my new car. It ended up being a faulty altenator. The electrical draw from the engine would be more than the altenator could produce and ended up killing the battery. A simple test when it is idleing is to measure the voltage across the battery. There should be 14-15 volts. If it has less inspec the alternator belt for tension and cracking. If that is good then bring your altenator in for a load test.

Hope this helps,
Ricky

 

[Eastwood95]

Your not venting your Blow off Valve to the atmosphere are you?

 

[MightyRiga]

I'm a complete noob - how do I check for vacuum leaks?

When you found it was a faulty alternator, did the car still start just fine?

No, I am not venting to the atmosphere.

One idea I heard from elsewhere was the EGR valve. Thoughts on that?

 

[Eastwood95]

As stated, it sounds like a vacuum leak, or possibly a boost leak. Does the car idle steady? Your vacuum hose routing is pictured under the hood of your car. Follow the lines and check that they are all plugged in, no cracks in the hoses etc. Do you have a Chiltons Manual?

 

[MightyRiga]

I have a Hayne's Manual. Need to find where my dad stashed it and I will be reading it.

The car's idle wavers by about 100RPM (yes, about one hundred, not 1000). It changes more with more draw on it (i.e. CD player, lights, windows, etc). I will look at the vacuum lines tonight.

I find a boost leak unlikely, as the problem is only at idle with clutch in. Dump the clutch, the car comes close to stalling or just shuts off without hesitation, whether boosting or not. It does not matter what gear I am in. It is the worst when stopping from 5th (engine braking keeps it alive), and reverse is almost guaranteed to shut off. Also, it still boosts/accelerates just fine.

 

[Eastwood95]

So is the idle normal when the car is just sitting in park and in neutral?

Did you try adjusting your Idle (BSS) screw? It's on the left side of the intake manifold when standing in front of the motor.

Also check your alternator belt for tension and wear.

It might not be the main problem, but a boost leak will dramatically effect your idle, picture a hole in your intercooler, the air escaping out that hole is supposed to be entering the intake manifold to mix with the fuel. If all that air is escaping, the fuel doesn't have enough air to mix with. Even while stopped/neutral/parked, any kind of intake(boost) leak will make your car and idle hesitate. Its always good to routinely check for boost leaks when having idle/stalling issues.

 

[hopwoodp]

I have had the same problem with my car after I put in my 6 bolt motor with an ACT flywheel and balance shaft elimination kit. After driving around and coming to stop signs - the car would shut off and I would have to use my e-brake to slow down. I tried tweaking things with dsmlink and it help somewhat but, it turned out to be a bad ISC motor. I put a good one in and it was normal again. That would be something to look into. But, what everyone else on here said is mainly your hot ticket. Good luck!

 

[Kezden]

I've also started to have the same problem, but it only happens when it feels like it, there are no patterns or anything, it will sometimes run fine for 2 days or so with a high idle at first, then it will narrow out to around 800 or so. On others it will die as soon as it revs down from any RPM, i have to keep the throttle in just to keep it alive, and sometimes if i'm sitting in a driveway it will idle at 200-500. I've checked for vacuum leaks and found none, but i'm thinkin it might be the PCV ?
any ideas?

 

[kene04]

My 95 did the same thing. After a while it just started dying. Two relays, fuel and ignition related (I let a shop take care of it, so I don't know which ones) had shorted out. Then it turned out I needed a new ECU, although fixing vacuum leaks and new pcv helped a lot.

 

[Eastwood95]

almost forgot,

if your accessories are causing your idle to drop dramatically, do an alternator test too...

 

[MightyRiga]

Idle is generally just fine when sitting in neutral. Something I haven't done (and haven't even though of to do until now) is put it in neutral and let the clutch out when it is having these issues...if that makes any difference as to what it could be?

As for the alternator, it would probably be worth a check. A few weeks ago we had extreme cold, and the belt broke on the highway. I don't remember when all of this started compared to that.

Boost leak - hey, thanks for educating me, didn't think of it that way. Also, 4k RPM in first, no audible boost/BOV when shifting. Can be easily heard from second to third, and third to fourth. After that, the wind took over. What do you make of that? Or is that normal?

I think that playing around with the intake/idle controls will solve the problem, as I am running rich on top of this. I would like to think the two problems are connected. But for now, let's stick with this one. Thanks for all the help so far.

I'm off to tinker with the BSS.

Well, got back. Set it to 1200 (yes, I know, high), took it for a quick boost. No problems. Get back, put the clutch in (car in neutral), revs are 1300. Clutch out, 1200. Both steady. Lower it to 900, it starts wavering plus or minus ~150RPM. Any lower, car was sputtering. For now, I have it set at ~1200. Let me know if this is really a bad idea. Also, what color is oil supposed to be again? I'm doubting black is it.

 

[Eastwood95]

That's funny, no its not supposed to be black guy..........when's the last time you did an oil change?

It still sounds like you have a small leak or something since it will not stay steady under 900rpm. Normal Idle is around 750rpm. Running it a little high is ok for now, you just need to try and pinpoint the leak, whether its a vacuum or boost leak.

The following conditions should be met before setting the BISS:

Engine coolant temp 176-203 degrees F (engine fully warmed up with the temp needle in the center of the range)
Lights, cooling fan, and accessories OFF
Tranny in neutral (AT trannies in Park)
Steering wheel in neutral position (centered, no load on the power steering)


It would be good to try and do the "boost leak test". Have you seen this tech article?
http://www.vfaq.com/mods/ICtester.html

In case you didn't have this link, www.vfaq.com is the DSM Mecca of Do-it-Yourself articles


If you have a few bucks, and a little time, you should go ahead and make one and see if you have any leaks. You're going to need the tester anyways, so the sooner the better.
Have you done any mods to the car yet, even free ones?

 

[MightyRiga]

Last oil change was about 2500 miles ago. It was rebuilt about 3000 miles ago. I tried to tell my dad we should change it last weekend anyway (I forgot how to do it myself ), and he was dead set against it. Looks like I was right about that, now only to prove myself right about needing 93, but that's a different story.

I Took a quick look at hoses last night, but had trouble understanding the vacuum hose diagram. With lack of time, I didn't accomplish much. I hope to tonight though.

All conditions were met. Also, for the boost leak tester...once I can get someone to help me out (I cannot construct stuff, I am inept), I will make one. Thanks for the link, though I have seen it before. But again, thanks .

No mods at all. Not even free ones.

So you don't think it is connected to the clutch at all then?

 

[Eastwood95]

Tell your dad to take a look at the instrument cluster for fuel requirements........

I don't think the idle problem is connected with the clutch.

You either have a leak, or a bad ISC motor

Run the idle as low as you can (without it fluctuating so like 1200 or whatever you were at) for the next few days, and see if the ECU compensates...........sometimes the idle will drop back down to normal after a period of time.

 

[MightyRiga]

Alright. We will be having a closer look at it by Friday or Saturday, and I'll post an update then. If any ideas come to mind before then, I would appreciate it.

As for my dad, he is a conspiracy theorist or something. He claims it'll run fine on 89 (he filled her up with it once ). It did, minus the four codes I got from that tank alone. I keep trying to argue about boost spike, etc. but he won't hear it. Maybe he will listen to me after our dispute about oil changes...

 

[Eastwood95]

The car's timing from the factory is set for premium fuel. It is in black and white in the Chilton's manual.

 

[Razor]

Extremely rough idle (about 500ish RPM), with the oil light flickering.

Does it idle rough the majority of the time or intermittenly?? Do you also have a lumpy idle?

Because my car had a bad EGR valve, and it had a lumpy sounding/feeling idle at stop signs and red lights. If I didn't gas it at times, it would die out. However, at moving speeds the car felt normal.

Basically my EGR valve had carbon deposits which built up and made it stay open, thus allowing too much exhaust into my intake manifold causing a lumpy idle and eventually dying out.

maybe you should look into that.