Should I buy this 1995 Gsx

[August578]

Hi there! So there’s this STOCK and decent condition gsx with a 2gb body upgrade for sale for a good price around me.

But here’s the catch, after running a car fax the miles were potentially rolled back. I’m assuming it is because all of the miles line up until the owner previous of this guy. From 216k to 128k. The owner seems to be unaware but is honest. He states all the problems and such and is very detailed and am very sure he is not lying.

He also said the car needed to have the valve seals replaced soon. Which helps the case of it being potentially rolled back.

After some forum reading I heard that the 4g63 last around 200k-250k. Which means the engine could already be at its lifespan…

So what do you guys think. I don’t really want to buy another engine and replace it because I already have another eclipse taking the garage. Nor do I want to spend the time and money on the swap.

Or
Option 2

I may have to rebuild but like I said I don’t have the time mainly to rebuild. I’ve never done a rebuild and I’m still learning the platform. I would really like a gsx tho.

Option 3

I don’t buy it.

What do you guys think. I wanted to do a compression test but because of the valve seals I don’t think it would be accurate. I’m pretty sure..?

It’s also the earlier model 95gsx with no sunroof and I think the rear evo rotors with im assuming the eprom.

 

[llxkevinxll]

"So what do you guys think. I don’t really want to buy another engine and replace it because I already have another eclipse taking the garage. Nor do I want to spend the time and money on the swap."

Possible engine issue aside. This is a nearly 30 year old vehicle that has possibly done 216k miles. On a platform where almost every car has been abused and beaten. Your couple of sentences here, to me, means you may want to consider what you are getting into. Maybe the engine is fine, maybe it isn't. But parts aren't getting cheaper for these cars and a possible roll back means there are an untold number of issues hiding in this car. That doesn't seem to mesh with the lack of time/budget. Just my opinion.

 

[waltah]

'Rollback' isn't necessarily the story: I have two 95 GS-T's sitting in the driveway and neither one has the original instrument cluster. Don't ask me why the p.o.s swapped them but the wiring for the cars and the connections for the clusters don't all line up -- some features on the car don't make that light on the cluster go. Maybe those owners were trying to hide miles, maybe not ...

Valve seals don't affect a compression test. A compression test measures positive pressure in the cylinders when all the valves for that cylinder are closed -- or supposed to be. The valve seals reduce the oil pulled in when the cylinder is sucking -- during the intake stroke -- which is of no significance to compression. Do that test. It's one of the key indicators of 'how much money will I have to sink into this thing right away?' Note that if you find a low cylinder (or more than one) you test again after dumping in a tablespoon or so of engine oil. If the compression doesn't change much you have a valve job problem whereas if it does change a lot that's cylinder/ring wear -- an 'overhaul' problem. Two weak cylinders side-by-side with the other two much better -- good chance that's a blown headgasket.

If the hot idle is good the compression test will probably be okay, but do it anyway.

Some other things you don't mention: Any structural rust? A rust free body is worth a lot these days. How's the transmission? How much of what you'd want to do is already done? Wheels and tires? There could be anything up to $1000 there. Suspension parts? There's $500+ in parts alone in ball joints, etc. if they're worn out. Does paint matter to you? Mid-four figures for a quality paint job these days.

Does A/C work? If you care and it doesn't, probably anywhere from $250-up.

You say the car is local; what's that worth compared to having to flatbed in a car from several states away? I've driven cars close to a thousand miles, I've flatbedded one -- neither was free or even as cheap as I hoped.

Price is relative, of course. But if you think it's 'a good price' and you would either be willing to do the required work or could sell it on at little/no loss, why not? These cars aren't getting either more plentiful OR cheaper, and good -- let alone interesting -- used cars are going nowhere but up.

 

[August578]

Thanks this was really helpful. Well the car is in pretty decent condition. There’s no rust from what I can see in pictures. Obviously I’ll have to check in person. But it’s California based so most of the cars out here don’t have rust. After totaling up miles and looking at car fax it’s possible that the car has upwards to 260k miles!

Wheels and tires are stock. Paint is 8/10, exterior wise it’s healthy.

Others problems he mentioned was that the TOB needs to be replaced. It’s whining at 2k.

He does oil every 2-3k and when he first got it 2 years ago he replaced all fluids including dif, t-case, and trans with redline.

He said reverse gear does grind after driving. But he says in order for it not to grind he has to put it into 1st then back into reverse. And then it will work just fine.

Shocks are blown but he said he bought some replacement Rev9 coils to replace. He also has the extra parts like TOB, valve stem seals and some other goodies. He also mentioned he was planning to get the seals replaced but the shop has no space available atm.

There is some wear and tear such as seats and roof liner. Seats aren’t really a problem as I have extras but roofliner I’ve never dealt with them because I have a spyder.

 

[Dericsh]

I don’t really think miles is the issue as much as the amount of time and budget you have available. It’s definitely a commitment that you have to think about. I wonder how long the current owner has had this car, the mention of rev9 coil overs doesn’t inspire much confidence that they used quality parts on any previous repairs.

 

[August578]

Car fax data

1st owner put around 218k miles!

2nd owner drove the car for 2 years but then let it sit for 12 years. odometer was then switched. He also put a fast and furious body kit on it and ran it to atmosphere but didn’t drive it apparently.

3rd owner reverted it back to 2gb. Put back stock parts, put topline revised lifters, replaced the alternator because it went bad twice, switched to mishimoto radiator and hoses, because it failed. But other than nothing else besides a eletrical problem with the clutch switch that is now fixed.

And then obv the maintenance I stated before.

I know the market varies off location but off of what I said what do you guys think it’s worth?

 

[voodoogsx]

When I got my car, I checked the carfax, and same thing, it was up to 200+(I don't recall the exact number anymore) Then rolled back down to 112ish...again, don't recall the exact number. I bought it anyways. The issues I ran into pretty early(6 months to a year) were fun...with a capital FU...Turbo was going out(some play in the shaft and damage to the compressor wheel fins, turbine wheel and backplate), Trans was going out(2/4), transfer case was going out(they must have launched and broke some teeth at some point), cut springs(how not to lower your car), oversized wheels/tires for how much they lowered it, so I'd rub-a-dub on some bumpy roads or highways with lots of dips...vented to atmo, but it ran pretty good when I checked it out. I had some friends who had these cars and they thought it looked, drove pretty good as well(understanding I'd change out the suspension and such). I think I paid 3200 for it back in 2003. I've had it since then and put in close to 10k total in repairs/upgrades/maintenance. I also just did the valve stem seals very recently, which hadn't been done since I bought the car...so it was about time I'd say.
Sight unseen and from what you described, I'd say between 3200-4000, though they may be asking more due to car values going up..
I love the car. My wife has allowed me to keep it as my project car. It's been a great adventure and learning experience I wouldn't want to trade.
Knowing what I know now, I'd consider it but know you'll be cracking some knuckles on it so prepare for that and some expense to get it up to a good state.

 

[T bags]

Skip unless you need the car. Sounds more like a want than a need

 

[August578]

Hahah you read me well T bags, it's true its more of a want than a need, kind of wanted to buy it for the learning experience of a rebuild and to have a gsx. But yeah I'll have to consider it more. But all the advice and perspectives have been super helpful! The other option I didn't mention was fixing it and reselling it, which was in the realm of possibility.

 

[T bags]

By the time it’s done fixing you will want to keep it.

 

[Tyeler18]

Mileage is irrelevant to me so long as the body is good on these. I've bought basket case low mileage cars that needed engines from years of abuse and I've owned high mileage cars that just refuse to die (my GVR4 has 212k on the OG drivetrain with an FP red on it). Unless you're spending $20k on a well sorted 2g GSX you can pretty well assume that theres going to be some level of work involved as it's a 30 year old car now. If you want the car get it, they're only going up in value- just dont buy it expecting a cross country roadster. I'd take a clean high mileage car over a low mileage for a driver. The low mileage cars all have worn out seals, rubber etc. The high mileage stuff is generally maitenanced a few times in it's life span.

 

[August578]

Hahaha that’s exactly what was conflicting me. In the end I’m prob going to want to keep it .

And yeah that’s true Tyeler it is almost 30 years old work is expected. Can’t be too picky!