Short Block sitting outside?

[goldenTSI]

I just got a short block that did not have a head on it. The block sat outside mostly covered by a tarp but it did get some water in the cylinders I drained the oil and didn't find much water. Will this affect the block in a negative way...will this thing need a rebuild. I was hoping to be able to use it with out spending to much money. Let me know what you guys think thanks!!

 

[TjPhillips36]

I would imagine if it's sat outside with water in it that their is rust all over it. If their is then it will need to be honed/bored out and cleaned. If their is no rust and everything looks normal then it should still be good.

 

[1992awdlaser]

Is there any rust on the cylinder walls? I just picked my car up from NY and I left the head off all winter and there is rust on my cylinder walls. Hopefully I can clean the rust off so I won't have to rebuild it.

 

[DougR]

Hot Tank or Acid bath is in order...
This will remove ALL corrosion outside and inside the block. Only then can it be measured to see if its capable of being rebuilt.
And it will Cost.
My builder charges 25$ for a acid bath. + 75$ per hole to be bored ONE TIME.
you are already above the cost of a junkyard block thats in rebuildable condition.
More than likely the cylinders will need to be Bored multiple times until the Pitting from the Corrosion is "cleaned" up, IF it even can.
I have a Mopar 440 waiting to be Sleeved, due to one of the cylinder walls being pitted bad enough it cannot be Cleaned up. Expensive! But a 440 is worth it.

It will be Probly far cheaper to start off with a Different block that is not rusted.
Im shure someone on here can give you a aprox cost of a shortblock for a 4G63, and you will find its cheaper to start with a clean block then a corroded block, in terms of machining cost to rebuild.


Doug

 

[g_ferg]

Hot Tank or Acid bath is in order...
This will remove ALL corrosion outside and inside the block. Only then can it be measured to see if its capable of being rebuilt.
And it will Cost.
My builder charges 25$ for a acid bath. + 75$ per hole to be bored ONE TIME.
you are already above the cost of a junkyard block thats in rebuildable condition.
More than likely the cylinders will need to be Bored multiple times until the Pitting from the Corrosion is "cleaned" up, IF it even can.
I have a Mopar 440 waiting to be Sleeved, due to one of the cylinder walls being pitted bad enough it cannot be Cleaned up. Expensive! But a 440 is worth it.

It will be Probly far cheaper to start off with a Different block that is not rusted.
Im shure someone on here can give you a aprox cost of a shortblock for a 4G63, and you will find its cheaper to start with a clean block then a corroded block, in terms of machining cost to rebuild.


Doug

75$ per cylinder? wow...my machinist only charged me 75 bux to bore all four.

As for the motor that sat outside. Take it apart and see if anything is rusted.

 

[DougR]

Im sorry, I should have been alil more detailed.
75$ per hole with a 4" thick Steel Torque Plate bolted on top inplace of the head (unless he has done Your particular engine before. he has to make the torque plate).
Along with Solid steel Main caps that do not have the cut section for a crank.
Once all of this Bolted on and torqued to spec, The Block is Heated up to Operating temp for 30 minutes. Then its Bored.


Thus the 75$ per hole.
Trust me. Its worth every penny.
I have had not one issue with the 4 engines I have had him Bore for me. And these engines are taken Maximum bore size. Well.. maximum size to match the Pistons that I installed...


Doug

 

[92awddsm]

Im sorry, I should have been alil more detailed.
75$ per hole with a 4" thick Steel Torque Plate bolted on top inplace of the head (unless he has done Your particular engine before. he has to make the torque plate).
Along with Solid steel Main caps that do not have the cut section for a crank.
Once all of this Bolted on and torqued to spec, The Block is Heated up to Operating temp for 30 minutes. Then its Bored.


Thus the 75$ per hole.
Trust me. Its worth every penny.
I have had not one issue with the 4 engines I have had him Bore for me. And these engines are taken Maximum bore size. Well.. maximum size to match the Pistons that I installed...


Doug

He can keep his $300 to bore and hone. I have a few reasons.
1) Our head is aluminum, not steel. If he is bolting a steel plate on the block and heating to operating temp, the bore is going to be worse off than not using a plate at all. Remember, the expansion and contraction rates are totally different between aluminum and steel. You cant get one to duplicate the other, regardless of temp. With heat, things get even worse.
2) As for the main caps, tolerances will be off if you dont use the same main caps for boring and final assembly. I would never try to bore a block with some homemade or mismatched main caps and the swap them out for something totally different for assembly.
3) You should never try to bore a block that has been heated. Piston manufacturers give their own clearance specs and 99% of the time, the recommended temp to check these specs is 70*F. If he is heating just the block and not the pistons, clearances will be too tight. If heating both, god only knows how far off the clearances will be. And the finish of the bore alone will be piss poor due to the fact that the block will cool considerably during the boring process on the first hole. As the temp is steadily dropping, the bore will develop a bell shape, being rough at the top and smoothing as the cast iron cools. The next hole will then be way off from the first hole and so on.

It honestly sounds as if you machinist is an idiot but found a way to screw people out of their money. It does sound good to someone that doesnt have any machining experience but I have have 15yrs experience as an ASE master automotive machinist so I know better.

 

[1992awdlaser]

92awddsm- What do you reccomend to try and get the rust off the cylinder walls? I was thinking about trying wd-40 and my finger first and if that doesn't work try a scotch-brite pad.

 

[absolute_DSM]

He can keep his $300 to bore and hone. I have a few reasons.
1) Our head is aluminum, not steel. If he is bolting a steel plate on the block and heating to operating temp, the bore is going to be worse off than not using a plate at all. Remember, the expansion and contraction rates are totally different between aluminum and steel. You cant get one to duplicate the other, regardless of temp. With heat, things get even worse.
2) As for the main caps, tolerances will be off if you dont use the same main caps for boring and final assembly. I would never try to bore a block with some homemade or mismatched main caps and the swap them out for something totally different for assembly.
3) You should never try to bore a block that has been heated. Piston manufacturers give their own clearance specs and 99% of the time, the recommended temp to check these specs is 70*F. If he is heating just the block and not the pistons, clearances will be too tight. If heating both, god only knows how far off the clearances will be. And the finish of the bore alone will be piss poor due to the fact that the block will cool considerably during the boring process on the first hole. As the temp is steadily dropping, the bore will develop a bell shape, being rough at the top and smoothing as the cast iron cools. The next hole will then be way off from the first hole and so on.

It honestly sounds as if you machinist is an idiot but found a way to screw people out of their money. It does sound good to someone that doesnt have any machining experience but I have have 15yrs experience as an ASE master automotive machinist so I know better.

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