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Shepherd Tranny Issue

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From the man himself. ^ :thumb:
 
I honestly would have called the person who bulit it FIRST.WTF , better answers that way.
Mike
 
ok ok, jesus, we already have found that the tranny was the not the issue, get off my back people, change the name of the post if you must.
 
Just take out your TOB and put a OEM one in, don't go with any company not even ACT for TOB!. The OEM TOB has prooved enough times they are reliable and priced fairly for how long they last.
 
again i will tell you all that the TOB I installed is exactly like the one that MAchv sells as the OEM one.......
 
I would suggest changing the tob asap cause if you dont it will eventually partially weld itself to the imput shaft. 3 tob's and 3 exploded clutch discs later, i wont be using act again.
 
OK I called ACT, and here is the DEF DEAL ABOUT THERE TOB"S FOR ALL TO KNOW !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


I talked to Richard from ACT EXT. 107

he went and got the TOB for are my car, which is a 96 GST

He said they sell whatever is OE for all vehicles, accept once they get it from the manufacture they package it into there own packaging.

They gave me a NOCHI model # 48SCRN32

He said that he has never heard of a TOB going out @ 500 miles, as far as welding to the imput shaft, I greased it well, and cant see that happening. But who knows.
 
boostyGST said:
He said they sell whatever is OE for all vehicles, accept once they get it from the manufacture they package it into there own packaging.
Here is what ACT says about their own TOBs: "Like all ACT parts, the ACT throwout bearing is made of high quality materials and is sure to meet and even exceed industry standards. The innovative design and manufacturing technologies that are used in the making of all ACT parts are readily apparent in the ACT throwout bearing, and you can expect the same degree of performance and longevity that you would in any other ACT part."

Note, especially, where they say it has "an innovative design." Does that really sound like they claim to be selling OEM TOBs in new packaging? Not to me. In any event, somebody is lying. And the experiences of many fast DSMers would suggest that ACT TOBs are not OEM TOBs.

- Jtoby

ps. please proof-read your posts
 
boostyGST said:
He said that he has never heard of a TOB going out @ 500 miles, as far as welding to the imput shaft, I greased it well, and cant see that happening. But who knows.

did you tell him you had 400hp 4 puck UNsprung clutch?
 
I am not sure about the noise and if it is a TOB problem or not. Without hearing it and seeing the car, it is only speculation. We use name brand bearings (same ones everyone else uses) and most of the time they are the same as the OEM bearing because it is not like there are a host of TOB manufacturers. There are some cheap off shore bearings for some applications, but ACT and most reputable companies stay away from them. A lot of distributors buy there own bearings so we recently started using our own packaging so we can verify if it came from us, etc. In the case of the DSM, there are few different bearings available. As of a few years ago we only supply the plastic sleeved bearings for the DSM to reduce wear on the guide tube. To set the record straight, we don't make bearings (and neither do any other clutch manufacturers that I know of) and there is nothing special about our bearings other than we don't use the cheap stuff. On the DSM, we have been using Nachi for quite some time which is a Japanese OEM company for many cars (see Nachi.com). Honestly I can't tell you if they are OE for the DSM.
 
yes I told him the clutch kit I had EXACTLY, well there is the answer from the owner of the ACT, dont know what else I can do, noone knows if it is the TOB or not, but I think I am just going to hold off on replacing it, but who knows, still up in the air for me.
 
The argument of metal vs oem TOB boils down to this:

The metal TOB will last pretty much forever. However, it has a tendency to score your input shaft. I had a metal one on for ~1200 miles and there was noticeable scuffing on my input shaft from it.

The plastic sleeved ones are more likely to fail, but when they begin to fail they will eat themselves, and not your input shaft.

A tob is easier and less costly to replace than an input shaft.
 
so what you are saying is that the slight squeaking I am hearing is the nochi bearing making metal to metal contact with my input shaft sleeve......Hard to believe considering.......and I quote the owner of ACT, "As of a few years ago we only supply the plastic sleeved bearings for the DSM to reduce wear on the guide tube"

Now the question is if the nochi bearing is plastic sleeved or metal sleeved????

Considering the fact that there is no squeaking going on when the clutch is being pressed in all the way then the bearing in the TOB itself ARE NOT going BAD!!!! There must be metal to metal contact either on the pressure plate fingers or the input sleeve.

Another question I have is, could this problem be associated with the not properly bleeding the hydraulic system?

Is this the proper method..PERIOD!!!

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=213503
 
Have someone pump the clutch Hold clutch pedal to floor, Loosen bleeder valve on slave cylinder... Tighten back up.. Repeat until satisfied, While watching the fluid level. That is all you need to do to bleed it.
 
92GSXBaltimore said:
your axles are going to snap or your transfer case will blow before you can overload a act 2600 with a street disk.

I think the point is to make the disc last longer. I've burned out the street disks in 1500-2000 miles. It isn't very fun replacing discs every 2 months.
 
hahahahahahhahaahhahaa, I think this @$#% is funny, now according to the article that is on this site, actually the link I have above, tells otherwise, it says that after you bleed the master cylinder and hydraulic line the normal way of pushing in clutch pedal and then releasing while opening and closing the slave cylinder, you still must completly compress the slave cylinder rod while the bleed screw is all the way out and then while keeping it compressed tighten the bleed screw back in.
 
Um, Then why don't you do what you ''think'' is right. Everytime someone gives you advice in this thread, You seem to shoot it down. How about no one answer anymore? Goodluck with your problems.
 
no im not shooting anything down, the problem is that EVERYONE has the "right" method to do EVERYTHING!.....LOL

Considering the tech guide post above, which some mod had to accept as a CORRECT method of bleeding the clutch and it title says it is the correct way i may add, then you get on and completly bypass the step that the tech topic says is SO IMPORTANT.

reason of complant:

there is never a "RIGHT" way of DOING ANYTHING !!!!!! So why do I even ask my questions? Maybe because I enjoy hearing other peoples opinions, and if you post your opinions on my thread, I have the right to question it.
 
Here are several of my opinions.

Of course ACT is going to tell you there is nothing wrong with their TOB. You think they are going to admit on one of the biggest nationwide DSM boards that "yes we have a problem with them." no way. Everyone and their brother has told you, use the oem one. I bet the man himself Shep is using one. There has obviously been a problem with them, so use what is proven to work.

As far as your set-up and looking ahead to the future is concerned. I don't care if you have aftermarket axles. If you plan on making enough power to need that insane clutch set-up you have, you will snap those aftermarket axles like toothpicks, or you will be left at the line looking for traction for half an hour. Again, research would have shown that an ACT 2600 lb or so clutch with something as simple as a matching disk would have been sufficient. Guys have run them into the 10s if not the 9s with AWD. Are you looking ahead to 8s?

Now, again in my opinion, do yourself a favor, take the system apart, see that indeed you do have wear from that TOB, replace it, use the recommended royal purple ( should be good for the future and your insane amounts of power, why skimp on the fluid) put it back together with a more bearable clutch set-up and oem TOB and feel the world of difference.

oh, and if you can't figure out how to bleed the system, take it to a good place, and have them power bleed it. Or find some DSM guys around you and do it right.

:boring:
 
GotTurbo11 said:
Now, again in my opinion, do yourself a favor, take the system apart, see that indeed you do have wear from that TOB, replace it, use the recommended royal purple ( should be good for the future and your insane amounts of power, why skimp on the fluid) put it back together with a more bearable clutch set-up and oem TOB and feel the world of difference.

oh, and if you can't figure out how to bleed the system, take it to a good place, and have them power bleed it. Or find some DSM guys around you and do it right.
Bingo. And here this thread should end.

- Jtoby
 
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