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Seemed Clutch was slipping! Brand New Clutch!

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jspec

20+ Year Contributor
82
0
May 9, 2002
Farmington Hills, Michigan
Well I am not sure where to begin but I picked up a 99 GSX on Ebay. I was told it was not running and had trans problems. I put it back together as the guy I bought it from pulled out the ignition coil and injectors. Started right up ran fine. few vacuum and exhaust leaks but nothing major. Clutch felt fine but when it drove it acted like it was slipping. I figured it just need a clutch no biggie. He had told me the car was clicking and was on 1/2 power.

In planning to do the clutch I was going to pull the motor and trans and do a basic freshening. HG, Timing belt and such. Anyways the cv boots on both sides where zip tied on. The carrier bearing for the intermediate shaft was loose. The 2 bolts that hold the bracket on where snapped off in the block. Also the output shaft on the trans was free. The ball retainers where out. It doesn't look like it was opened up but who knows. The Stock clutch that was in there was brand new no signs of wear at all. 104k on the car it was replaced.

Before I did all this I tested the front and rear diffs buy trying to turn them while jacked up. everything seemed fine. Any ideas? I would like to put this back together right and not do it all twice after the new clutch! Any Help would be greatly appreciated!
 
Regarding the clutch slippage...I would really remove the flywheel and check it for the proper step height. If it is correct, scotchbrite and brakeclean the flywheel to break the glaze on it, then reinstall the clutch disk properly. Torque the flywheel bolts to 100 lb/ft with red locktite on the flywheel bolts. The pressure plate and disk should be installed properly, then torqued to ~26 lb/ft.

You will NEED to drill out those broken bolts in the block for the halfshaft bracket. That will not be fun. You will more than likely need to get new axles as well considering the circumstances. But since you have the block out, it might not be too bad. try a bolt extractor first, with several coatings of PB blaster. More than likely, it might be beneficial to drill out and retap for a 10mmx1.25mm bolt if it fits -- then you will have to drill out the A/C bracket to fit. The stock bolts are 8mmx1.25mm and are around 1.25"-1.5" long.

When you mean that the output shaft was free, you mean it pulled right out??? Was the snapring still holding on the viscous coupler? Just the detent ball on the shaft was missing? Be sure to replace that ball detent; there should only be one ball in the shaft.

You might want to replace the viscous coupler with a new one also. Team Rip (TRE) www.teamrip.com has them in stock usually.
 
1st off thanks for the reply it is very helpful. The Clutch itself appears to be slightly glazed. I am not to worried about this as I have a brand new fidanza stage 4 clutch and aluminum flywheel going in. I am not sure how to check the step height of the clutch but I will look into it. The axles are both kind of trashed so I was either going to have them rebuilt locally or buy a new set from raxles. If the intermediate shaft bearing was loose could it come out enough to disengage the axle. Basically make the car RWD? The VC was still on fine just the ball detent had fallen out. Yes the output shaft just pulled right out. We found 2 balls in the transmission which made me a bit nervous. I need to get a new Snap ring as the one that is on got a little screwed up on removal. Would you happen to know a part # for that snap ring?
 
I will have to look for the part number for the snapring; I don't have it off the top of my head. :D

Ok, if you are going with a totally different clutch pressure plate/disk and flywheel, you shouldn't need to check the step height of the flywheel as it should be proper if you ordered the correct part.

As for the axles, Marty at Raxles is a great guy! In fact, I just sent out my Raxles axles to him for a checkup under the warranty. Excellent service!

As for the intermediate shaft, you asked: "If the intermediate shaft bearing was loose could it come out enough to disengage the axle. Basically make the car RWD?"

Well, you would get a nasty clicking sound, along with a major lack of power, because your front differential would be freewheeling most of the power transferred to it, causing you to send the only real power to the ground through the center diff/transfer case to the rear end. It would be in your best interest to inspect the intermediate shaft carefully, and replace it if it is cracked, galled, etc with a new one.

The ball detents should NOT fall out if the transmission was assembled correctly by the previous person. Inspect that output shaft also, and get new ball detents from the dealer.
 
WOW! You hit the nail right on the head. The guy told me about a clicking noise coming from the front. I forgot to mention it in my previous post. You are lucky you arn't local I may just have to kiss you OMG. When I pulled the clutch and found it to be brand new It scared the shit out of me. I could figure out why the car would act like it was. The intermediate shaft doesn't look scared on a quick inspection but I will clean it up and look again.
 
II put the end of the drivers side axle in a vice and separated it from the intermediate shaft today. It would not come apart without lots of motivation. There where alot of metal shavings in that socket. I uploaded a few pics of what it looks like now there. Looks like I need an intermediate shaft also.

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v491/jasonspector/99gsx
 
I agree. You should replace the intermediate shaft also.

Good luck!
 
Make sure to check the clutch pedal adjustment!!! On a 2g if the clutch pedal is not adjusted properly the clutch will slip. This will happen if the clutch engagement point is too high in the clutch pedal travel. You'll want to adjust the pushrod behind the pedal so that the clutch engages a few inches off the floor. Try this first before tearing into the clutch.
 
Too Late it is already out. Any idea what the part #'s for the inner shaft / intermediate shaft is. I cannot find it in CAPS.
 
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