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SBR 2G FMIC Install

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kevspyder

15+ Year Contributor
91
0
Dec 2, 2007
Rochester, New York
Well I just thought I would post my experience and install progress with this intercooler. I'm still kind of trying to figure out how to install this so that's what I thought I'd post here. Any help or suggestions would be great.

I bought the FMIC right from SBR for $725 plus $50 shipping with the Greddy flange. It was the best deal I could find on that set up. I was thinking about the Greddy but saw too many negative write ups about it and saw nothing but good things about this Front Mount.

Here are some pictures of me receiving it in the mail which came UPS.
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Over all the packaging was good. It took about 7 days to get. The core had some scratches and dings on it. It wasn't too bad but being brand new it was kind of upsetting.

Here is the Right side Fog taken off.
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Here is the Fog and Headlight taken out.
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Here is the Left Fog still in
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Here's the Left Fog and Headlight taken out.
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That's were I ended for the night. Do I have to knock off the front bumper mounting brackets? Tomorrow I'm going to cut the hole to the right of the condenser.
 

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The BOV was never recirculated, but I plan on making it that way. The MAS sensor is connected. I'll have to do a boost leak test and see what happens.
 
make sure all your connections are tight for the couplers. check your mas connection. make sure the intake tube is on tight. when you say your bov was never recirculated? if that was the case you had to be getting really poor performance? it's boost leak weather you think it is or not.....just look around something small can make your car run really bad.
 
The BOV was never recirculated, but I plan on making it that way. The MAS sensor is connected. I'll have to do a boost leak test and see what happens.

If the BOV wasn't connected (it should be as the ECU calculates that returning air into is equations) was the intake pipe where the BOV recirculates back in closed? I.e. now allowing the turbo to suck unmetered air into the system.
 
Yeah that connection on the intake was closed off, I've only ever driven the car once when I picked it up a couple weeks ago. The performance was kind of poor but the car needs to be tuned. I'll be taking it to the local dsm performance shop, the shop is about 4 miles down the road but I want to get it running so at least I can get it there.
 
Yeah that connection on the intake was closed off, I've only ever driven the car once when I picked it up a couple weeks ago. The performance was kind of poor but the car needs to be tuned. I'll be taking it to the local dsm performance shop, the shop is about 4 miles down the road but I want to get it running so at least I can get it there.

Well thats good. I would do a boost leak test... fix the IC pipe leaks. Reinstall the MAS and double check the connections. Then give it a shot at starting.

I recommend getting a 2.25" rubber end cap and clamp. Clamp the the end cap over the turbo intake... very tight. Remove the MBC (if you have one) and cap the MBC drive line. Put a T vacuum fitting between the intake manifold and the BOV. Run some extra vacuum hose from the T to your compressor and test for a boost leak from there. No need to make that special Boost leak tester. About $2 in parts. You also don't run the risk of hitting the turbo seals directly with 90 psi of oncoming air as you would by pressurizing from the turbo intake side.... if that makes any sense what so ever.
 
One thing I'm trying to find is a hose that will connect the Greddy BOV to the intake because a stock one will not reach. Where's a good place to find one that will?
 
How did the boost leak test go?

Try some flexible hose from menards/lowes/home depot, possibly the plumbing section maybe? Remember the line isn't a pressure line... so it doesn't need to take a ton of abuse, but it needs to still seal decently to stop the dump tube from sucking in unmetered air.
 
I haven't been able to do the boost leak test. Do you have a diagram or know of a link where I can see how someone did the test? I read what you wrote but is a tad confusing.
 
Just look around for any cracks or holes in your lines. I would say if it was running fine before you put the intercooler on then it is in the intercooler pipping make sure all the couplers are on tight.
 
well completed the boost leak test. It was leaking a tad at the throttle body and then where I tapped the hole at the top of the bov. I think I might have to get a new BOV. Other than that everything was good to go.
 
I bought the car from a guy and for some reason the screw on the top was stripped some how. So I had to tap it and put a size bigger in there.
 
Fix that leak then try again. Sometimes you fix one leak which is hiding another leak else where in the the plumbing.

The throttle body leak can be the BISS screw gasket (an O-ring), Elbow to throttle body gasket, throttle body to Manifold gasket, throttle plate seals. BISS, Elbow - throttle body and Throttle body - Manifold gaskets are easy to replace. The throttle plate seals require dissambly of the throttle plate.
 
How would I used JP weld on the BOV? Just put it on the screw and screw it down to where I want it then leave it to dry?
 
If its a screw, just wrap some plumber's (teflon) tape around the thread and screw in the screw. If its some thing outside, then jb weld the hole shut. (just scuff the are you want jbweld with some sand paper, then apply some jb weld over the hole. Allow to dry thoroughly before re pressurizing.)
 
How are you guys mounting these? Just installed mine yesterday and just used self tapping screws temporarily. Need to know!
 
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