SAFC + Maft ...With Ostrich?

[XiKeiyaZI]

Okay, so when I picked up my Talon it came with a SAFC 1, A MAFT, and a burnt chip. When I arrived to get the car it would barely idle (mostly due to bad vacuum lines), so I hooked my Ostrich unit up to it, set the Injector size to 550, and uploaded it. Car ran much better.

Right now I have the car where it will idle (with idle surge) and when looking at the SAFC it shows the RPMs at 400 - 600. The actual RPMs are 800 - 1300.

What I'm curious of is with the SAFC and MAFT compensating for the 550 injectors installed already, is the car just confusing itself since the Ostrich tune is set up for 550's? I know a SAFC is meant to compensate for larger injectors by intercepting the signal from the MAF and basically modifying it before it reaches the ECU.

So what I'm wondering is since it's wired in Pre MAFT, if it's just causing a cluster-f^%@ once it finally reaches the ECU which has already compensated for the injector differences? Should I simply remove the SAFC? Could I also remove the MAFT + GM intake and wire a 2G MAF in it's place? I could easily swap it over from my GST, install the GM MAF into the 2G and set it up basic.

Just looking for thoughts.

 

[brian9397gsx]

sounds like the afc cylinder count is set wrong i believe it has to be set for 2 cylinder. and with the ostrich i would just toss that afc up for sale. one way to check if its getting confused is zero out the safc set it to stock compensation and just rely on the ostrich and see how it runs then.

 

[knochgoon24]

Just toss the SAFC and tune with Ostrich.

The cylinder count in the SAFC is wrong. That's the RPM readout issue. You just have to change the settings in the SAFC, but like I said, you should just remove it.

Only use one device to compensate for the injectors. Using the SAFC and Ostrich to compensate pulls too much fuel.

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

sounds like the afc cylinder count is set wrong i believe it has to be set for 2 cylinder. and with the ostrich i would just toss that afc up for sale. one way to check if its getting confused is zero out the safc set it to stock compensation and just rely on the ostrich and see how it runs then.

I remember coming across the Cylinder selection in the ETC settings? It was initially set for 6? I set it to 4 because that seemed to make more sense to me. I'll set it for 2 and see what that does.

Truth is I've never looked into SAFC tuning because I personally don't like them. So just to clarify.. how, exactly, would I zero everything out?

Edit : Haha. Alright. So just pull the SAFC, leave the MAFT, and it should be alright? I mean.. the MAFT won't bother the tune, should it? And with Ostrich could I just set the dials in the MAFT to Zero, or what should I do about that?

Edit : Ah god.. I just looked at the wiring that was done to tap it into the ECU...>.< This is going to be hell...

I also set it to 2 Cyl and the RPM readout was perfect. Car idled a hell of a lot better as well for whatever reason.

 

[brian9397gsx]

If you have the maft set to zero the ecu will think its the stock maf and then you can make all your corrections via the ostrich.

The original owner was probably using the safc to fine tune the chip id personally ditch it if using the the ostrich.

The reason for the 2cylinder selection is cause the 4g motor uses 2 coils in waste spark

Man you've gone through alot of dsms

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

If you have the maft set to zero the ecu will think its the stock maf and then you can make all your corrections via the ostrich.

The original owner was probably using the safc to fine tune the chip id personally ditch it if using the the ostrich.

The reason for the 2cylinder selection is cause the 4g motor uses 2 coils in waste spark

Man you've gone through alot of dsms

You've got that right. ;P -counts- This is my....7th one. Lol. The first 4 were learners/parts, the next 3 were what got me to step into the position I'm at now.

I think I'll just yank the SAFC and make a few bucks off of it. I've gotta find the wires from the harness that were removed though.. correct? I noticed there are a couple that weren't simply spliced into but seem to be intercepted completely. I suppose if I find the installation directions for the wiring, I can backtrace it and reverse the wiring modifications.

 

[knochgoon24]

The 2 intercepted ones are the wires for the MAF signal. So it take the signal passes it through the SAFC, then outputs the new value to the ECU. You'll just have to splice them back together. Every other wire should just be tapped IIRC. (Power, IGN, Ground, RPM, and possibly o2 sensor)

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

The 2 intercepted ones are the wires for the MAF signal. So it take the signal passes it through the SAFC, then outputs the new value to the ECU. You'll just have to splice them back together. Every other wire should just be tapped IIRC. (Power, IGN, Ground, RPM, and possibly o2 sensor)

Alright. I went out and took a closer look at it after eying a diagram, coming to the conclusion that you stated above about there being 1 interception. I was able to pull everything out and I spliced the two wires back together, but had to use some spare wire as the wire (Green with a blue stripe) was cut too short to get a proper length stripped and wired back. I've got to electrical tape everything up before I put the ECU back in and try to fire it up to see how it acts. Looks like I have a SAFC going up for sale though. Lol.

Thanks for the help guys!

Oh, one more thing. The MAFT should be okay, correct? I shouldn't have to worry about it too much?

 

[toofast82]

The Ostrich is all you need for full timing and fuel control.

If you're insistent on using the GM maf, then keep the Maf-t hooked up but zeroed out and just tune off the ostrich.

And yes you can use the 2gmaf and it won't be a restriction at your power levels.
Just be sure that you make ALL the necessary code changes to compensate for it.

I'd probably sell the SAFC and MAFT, and GM Maf to put some coin back in your pocket.
You can also go to speed density pretty easily with the Ostrich as well

I'm guessing you're using Tunerpro?

 

[brian9397gsx]

with that ostrich you should really look into speed density. a close friend of mine ran it on his talon with great results

 

[toofast82]

with that ostrich you should really look into speed density. a close friend of mine ran it on his talon with great results

Yep when I had my talon, i loved it
You can go with Jackal for one option.
I opted to go with a file from the DSM-ECU Yahoo forum that was basically DSMap v1, because it was based off of the E931 code so all other code changes still applied and the info is available.
I drove my car from 0*-100* without ever having a hiccup of any sort and the tune stayed dead on with no a/f variances or anything like that.

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

Well since I'm just now getting able to understand all of the aspects of tuning and whatnot, I'm really looking into everything I hear about. ;3

The GM MAFT, I think, is going to stay. It's already installed and I am really shitty when it comes to wiring. So I literally need to set every one of the dials to zero? I have all of the switches set to OFF, and all of the others are set to Zero besides the Base which is set to 4. That's the only way I could get it to idle earlier with the SAFC. Now that I removed the SAFC the car will start and stumble and struggled to hold 500rpm. I assume if I zero everything out it will help a lot.

I need to get more in depth with TunerPro and get a decent tune setup for what modifications I have with this vehicle. I basically grabbed a stock tune and edited the Injector size just so I could get it home. Now I need to look into what else I need to do via Fuel, Timing, and everything else.

 

[toofast82]

You'd basically just be using the Maf-t for one purpose which would be to translate for the gm maf.
You'd set the maf-t for the stock injector size and zero out any fuel settings
Did you just edit the injector size and not adjust the deadtimes?
You should also really have a wideband if you don't already

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

You'd basically just be using the Maf-t for one purpose which would be to translate for the gm maf.
You'd set the maf-t for the stock injector size and zero out any fuel settings
Did you just edit the injector size and not adjust the deadtimes?
You should also really have a wideband if you don't already

I know. Sadly it doesn't have a wideband, but I'm getting rid of the SAFC and that will immediately go towards a wideband, without question.

Also, I don't know enough about deadtimes at the moment. I'm not out driving the car so I have plenty of time to learn. o.o I just need a good source to learn from.

 

[brian9397gsx]

yeah he used dsmap worked great in conjunction with his lc-1 which he had wired to the pcm. it was nice and clean only guage he had was a boost

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

Lol.

I know I need to adjust my timing, dead times, and whatnot... but I really have nothing to go off of. =/ Until then the vehicle is going to be underpowered running the stock fuel and timing maps even though there is plenty more fuel there to make more power.

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

EDIT : I figured it out. The Switches were labeled on the underside of the lid. Lol.

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

Seriously getting fed up with Tuner Pro at this point.

It took 2 hours to locate a DECENT Bin file to use. When I finally did, no matter how many times I adjust the damned deadtimes it will NOT commit the save. -.-;;

Edit : I also believe I have 660CC injectors? I was able to read 'Denso' off of one side, but the other side of the Injectors are so shittily colored that it obscures the markings. So when I go in to adjust me deadtimes for either one to give it a shot... the changes won't commit to the deadtimes.

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[MY1GDSM]

What version of Tuner Pro are you using? and what Definition file?
Also,
Can you get a better pic? Those look like blue top 450's in that pic but it's kinda blurry so IDK