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ECMlink Running rich when letting off throttle

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I'm pretty sure the harness is a 91 everything in the engine bay as far as connectors are 91 but if theirs a way to check for sure let me know I can do it now if needed I'm 90% sure this ecu was modified for a 90 car as it's what yr car it came out of but the tach works fine didn't have to do anything woth the coil either because my mgi and coil are all 91 style. As far as dead times for injectors I changed them to get the idle afr around 14.7 as they were very rich when set to ecm link wiki suggested to start at I'm about 160 counts off from the but figured I am having other issues that's causing it to be so far off the nb o2 I reused the old one from the stock motor seeing I didn't thinon their was any issues with it until I started logging but my guess is it hasn't been cycling this entire time..keep in mind all these issues started when I installed the ecu so the idea the pins need swapped is catching my attention here.. I wondering of the idle switch isn't activating because ecu can't read it could that possibly cause the o2 to stick at .20v?
 
Well I switched pin 6 & 14 and it was working fine had a 1 on idle and 0 on throttle when I let off it didn't sputter ornanything for about 5 miles or so then red just 0 again.. hopfully switch is acting up or somthing.. I'm also noticing my tps keeps changing voltage I adjusted it a few times last time I did was tb off and it was perfect I tightened it down good and was good till I started driving a bit and noticed it moved Soni adjusted it with link when I shut car off it went back half as much and now keeps changing alot I was driving for awhile and it read .67 at 1% after I already adjusted with link so I hit gas a few times it went back to 0 at .65 1 time then I hit it again to doubble ck it and back .67 at 1% so I adjusted it again with link... any idea if it could be a bad tps or anything?
 
Well I switched pin 6 & 14 and it was working fine had a 1 on idle and 0 on throttle when I let off it didn't sputter ornanything for about 5 miles or so then red just 0 again.. hopfully switch is acting up or somthing.. I'm also noticing my tps keeps changing voltage I adjusted it a few times last time I did was tb off and it was perfect I tightened it down good and was good till I started driving a bit and noticed it moved Soni adjusted it with link when I shut car off it went back half as much and now keeps changing alot I was driving for awhile and it read .67 at 1% after I already adjusted with link so I hit gas a few times it went back to 0 at .65 1 time then I hit it again to doubble ck it and back .67 at 1% so I adjusted it again with link... any idea if it could be a bad tps or anything?
Can you simulate your idle switch. You really dont need it if you simulate in link
 
Well before it didn't make a differance if I did it or not I had to switch pins 6 &14 not that the idle switch is still not working I tried the simulation on the way home and it works great now I might just say f... the switch and use the simulator now just gotta figure out why my tps keeps changing and I should be good
 
I've manually adjusted it like 15 times it looks great until it gets warmed uo and running then it moved.. I wo derived if the throttle cable is to tight
 
I've manually adjusted it like 15 times it looks great until it gets warmed uo and running then it moved.. I wo derived if the throttle cable is to tight

I slightly over tightened throttle cable once and when it got warm my idle crept up and it read 1% with foot off accelerator. When it was cold it was good. So very possible.

Hows the rich problem now? Mine will jump up to 9 sometimes before fuel cutting to 22 and i have all my tps and idle switch in line. Im hoping to learn something here
 
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