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1G Rod knock?

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92AWDTalonTSI

10+ Year Contributor
334
7
Jun 2, 2010
Somonauk, Illinois
Ok, heres the deal.

The car I was helping tune sounded and ran fine. Then we heard noise that seemed to be a timing belt idler pulley or tensioner.

This was at idle. You could hear an inconsistent tapping sound. Not like knock you usually hear. It's evedent then goes away. 10 seconds later it's back.

The problem is: It was a slight noise before we took the motor apart. Once we pulled the spark plug cover I noticed one spark plug wire pinched between the valve cover and the wire cover. I immediately figured out why we couldn't get the car to run correctly. It wasn't getting spark on the number 2 cylinder. At all. I mean I took the plug out and the cylinder had some soot on it. But you could still see chrome. The cylinder was brown in color I'd assume from the gas. The others were a transparent black color. The plug from cyl 2 was brand new. No soot. No burn marks. It hasn't sparked since being replaced I don't know when.


My problem with this is that. When you take spark out of a bad cylinder there is no knock. It's gone other than a slight noise. Once you apply spark it comes back.

Do you think the previous owner did this on purpose?

The car was fine (Other than the slight tap.) until we fixed the spark.

How would we pull the pan with the engine still in the car?
 
Ok, heres the deal.

The car I was helping tune sounded and ran fine. Then we heard noise that seemed to be a timing belt idler pulley or tensioner.

This was at idle. You could hear an inconsistent tapping sound. Not like knock you usually hear. It's evedent then goes away. 10 seconds later it's back.

The problem is: It was a slight noise before we took the motor apart. Once we pulled the spark plug cover I noticed one spark plug wire pinched between the valve cover and the wire cover. I immediately figured out why we couldn't get the car to run correctly. It wasn't getting spark on the number 2 cylinder. At all. I mean I took the plug out and the cylinder had some soot on it. But you could still see chrome. The cylinder was brown in color I'd assume from the gas. The others were a transparent black color. The plug from cyl 2 was brand new. No soot. No burn marks. It hasn't sparked since being replaced I don't know when.


My problem with this is that. When you take spark out of a bad cylinder there is no knock. It's gone other than a slight noise. Once you apply spark it comes back.

Do you think the previous owner did this on purpose?

The car was fine (Other than the slight tap.) until we fixed the spark.

How would we pull the pan with the engine still in the car?

To pull the pan, remove the transfer case, downpipe and either completely remove or just unbolt the drivers side axle from the block.
 
So put a good wire/plug on it and start it and see if it starts playing drums. LOL

Already did that....

I'll look into pulling the pan. I'll also do the BDC trick. Rotate the engine till the first piston is BDC and stick a wooden dowel in and push on the piston. If it moves the bearing is bad.

I'll do that to all four and post back.
 
Drain the oil and look for copper in it. To the guy that said rod bearings are 20 a set. That's cool and all, but the crank will be damaged and the rod will need to be re sized. So that 20 dollars turns into a few hundred real quick.
 

dam that defiantly doesn't sound good man.:sosad:. have you tried that old trick where you put like a block of wood to the motor while its running and the other end of the wood on your ear and listen. if its rod knock, you'l hear it :thumb:. also i suggest not tuning it on like that until you can pull the pan and check out those bearings. either way, good luck man!:hellyeah:
 
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