Road Race Ducting Brainstorm

[ed1380]

All the factory oil filter housings designed for external air-oil coolers ('90 6-bolt, Evo III, Evo 8/9) have a built-in thermostat. As far as I know, they're all set to right around 180F.

I don't like the 90 because it runs parallel to the block and can't run a big filter and big downpipe at the same time.

I'm trying to find a cheaper version of something like this $40 for shipping is a bit too much.

 

[eclipsegsx1736]

I don't like the 90 because it runs parallel to the block and can't run a big filter and big downpipe at the same time.

I'm trying to find a cheaper version of something like this $40 for shipping is a bit too much.

Have you tried test fitting one? I've never had an issue with clearance on a '90 housing. The '90 housing places the oil filter flange over an inch further toward the driver side vs. the 7-bolt since there is no oil-water sandwich housing.

I've seen those adapters and I'm sure they work, but you'd have to either run a forward-facing housing or also remotely mount the oil filter. I'm a fan of simplicity on race cars as complicated things with tons of oil lines are just easier to get damaged, break or come loose, but that's just me. You kind of have to build the car with the expectation that you'll go flying off the track into the dirt/gravel/grass at 100 mph and hope for minimal damage!

Beau

 

[kamikazeredneck]

I am glad the Beau is able to help shine some light on this subject. I too have been working on doing my cooling setup and right now I am doing the same setup as Beau just keeping the radiator centered as I do not need the extra space (don't have an external wastegate, oil cooler is located where ABS was and I don't have the bump in my hood to avoid). I will be running ducts for the engine bay cooling on the sides of the radiator though as an extra source of air to the turbo and alternator. Everyone's application will be different but this thread is very interesting. I have already done ducting for a custom air filter box and oil cooler to help direct air into those areas which are on opposite sides of the car (I have openings in the side of the bumper with the 2ga body style which I made bigger). It's funny how small changes to the body make such a different performance increase. I am glad we are getting a lot of good information to help not just one or two people but the whole DSM road race community. This seems to be a large problems keeping most of us off the track for endurance events or anything longer than a few hard laps.

 

[eclipsegsx1736]

I am glad the Beau is able to help shine some light on this subject. I too have been working on doing my cooling setup and right now I am doing the same setup as Beau just keeping the radiator centered as I do not need the extra space (don't have an external wastegate, oil cooler is located where ABS was and I don't have the bump in my hood to avoid). I will be running ducts for the engine bay cooling on the sides of the radiator though as an extra source of air to the turbo and alternator. Everyone's application will be different but this thread is very interesting. I have already done ducting for a custom air filter box and oil cooler to help direct air into those areas which are on opposite sides of the car (I have openings in the side of the bumper with the 2ga body style which I made bigger). It's funny how small changes to the body make such a different performance increase. I am glad we are getting a lot of good information to help not just one or two people but the whole DSM road race community. This seems to be a large problems keeping most of us off the track for endurance events or anything longer than a few hard laps.

Very cool! I'd love to see how you end up doing the ducting as the project comes along.

Beau

 

[AngelOfPassion]

I too am glad that Beau is willing to share. And that all of us are putting our minds together on this. The rear diffuser thread right by mine in this section is really cool too. Lots of good info.

 

[kamikazeredneck]

Well I'm glad to share my design with others but unfortunately my car is right now in a million pieces and I haven't been able to get over and work on it. What I did do though with the custom air box and oil cooler ducting was use some house exhaust ducting and slowly shape it so it fit how my inlets were. I then riveted it into place for the time being until I can make a fiberglass mold. This gave be the option of making it different sizes and keeping it easy to shape with my hands (while keeping costs down). With the radiator I have been working with really light gauge sheet metal (don't remember the size off hand) and shaping that as well to contour to the front bumper and radiator. One thing I would really suggest to people who would like to do this is to make sure you make different channels for each place you are routing air. I.E. run the intercooler and radiator air on one ducting setup, oil cooling on another, engine fresh air on a separate channel, etc etc. This will help the system run at it's fullest potential. Also use metal that is cheep and easy to re form because you will make plenty of mistakes. I am going to dry run the light sheet metal first before I make the final version which will be much more user friendly.

I am also going to be switching my hood to help vent air from under the hood as well as run the radiator ducting and brake ducting. All this is going to help keep under hood temps down, radiator temps stable and predictable and keep the engine components at their optimal temp. All this customization takes a lot of time and fitting but in the end works great.

 

[Scott McIntyre]

Here's what I run for an oil cooler:

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The system includes a Perma-Cool 180º thermostat.

Note: I've since changed the adapter sandwich fittings to 90º elbows for better clearance.