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right 420a head? (pics)

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xXaTaXx

15+ Year Contributor
141
4
Sep 6, 2006
Bethesda, Maryland
I just recently found a head for my 420a, It looks right to me, but I asked for more pictures of the head so we'll see about that. What I was really wondering is that this guy says his friend bought it for his neon and it didnt fit, but he's sure it'll fit on the N/T eclipse. Is that right? Isn't the neon the same just reversed somewhat? Any help would be appreciated. thanks. And yes, its P&P'ed
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Chris
 
Looks fine to me, but I can't really tell from this angle. As for the neon thing, that is exactly why it would not fit his car because the heads are reversed and therefore so are all the passages for coolant and oil etc...
 
And now the (fill in how much the head costs here) dollar question; do you have the cam caps for that head? You need to have the caps that match the head.

MB
 
And now the (fill in how much the head costs here) dollar question; do you have the cam caps for that head? You need to have the caps that match the head.

MB

The kid seems to really just wanna get rid of it. its up for just over $200, I emailed asking if he has the caps for it already, but couldn't I just use the caps from my head when I pull it off?
 
And now the (fill in how much the head costs here) dollar question; do you have the cam caps for that head? You need to have the caps that match the head.

MB

The kid seems to really just wanna get rid of it. its up for just over $200, I emailed asking if he has the caps for it already, but couldn't I just use the caps from my head when I pull it off?
 
You will need that head's cam caps to use that head as they are head-specific. Isn't there suppose to be a spot on the left of that head for the thermostat housing to mount to?
 
mmm, was just a thought. anyways, i think i found a used head for $40-$50. just running though ideas.

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EDIT: I think i've seen built head for around $300-500 but I kind of like the idea of piecing it together myself. Isn't that what modding's all about ;P
 
You will need that head's cam caps to use that head as they are head-specific. Isn't there suppose to be a spot on the left of that head for the thermostat housing to mount to?

I believe it'd be on the backside in that pic (the first one posted). If you look at the circular recesses, and then compare them to the pic i just posted, it seems he took a pic of the intake side of the head.
 
I believe it'd be on the backside in that pic (the first one posted). If you look at the circular recesses, and then compare them to the pic i just posted, it seems he took a pic of the intake side of the head.

Haha yeah. I was at work and was skimming through and for some reason I thought I was looking at the exhaust side. Thanks for clearing that up :thumb:
 
You gotta have the caps. The head was machined with the caps installed on them so the caps act as a bearing with the lower half of the head as well. If you swap out camshaft caps then you've basically got mis-matched bearing caps and you will destroy your cams. This is another reason why the caps are numbered and you're not only supposed to buy a head with the caps but put them back in the same spot they came off when dis-assembling and re-assembling it.

Don't buy this head. Sounds too sketchy. He's already the second owner that you know of.
 
Convincing enough for me. I'm going to take a trip to the local yard (walking distance from work) because apparently they get a lot of totalled eclipses. Meh, maybe then, I'll have luck in finding an intact head.

Also, How do I go about cleaning a head? Like in the 2nd picture I posted, how would I remove all that carbon buildup/gasket material. I assume there are solvents I can't use becuase of what heads' are made of. Any suggestions are appreciated (as always ;D).


Chris.
 
You can just use carb cleaners and spirits and such. If you use a brush, use a very soft bristled brush, like a tooth brush.

Although, I will assume you are going to take the head to a shop to at least have it checked for flatness and cracks and such? The machine shop should clean it for you.
 
Of course, I talked to a guy I know that works at a machine shop type place. I just didn't know if cleaning the head or part(s) was included. Unfortunately, I didn't end up going to the yard today because the snow around here has made the ground nasty outside, so I don't feel like drudging through mud.

Also, If anyone knows, is the rear O2 just not important enough to throw a CEL? or should I assume somethings wrong. When I installed my exhaust, I couldn't get the O2 off the pipe so I just clipped the wires. I later got the sensor out and put it into the new pipe, I just haven't gotten to soldering the connections yet. No CEL though ;X I hooked the autoscanner up too, and no codes to pull. .. Meh.


Chris
 
A fluke of nature, perhaps? You should get a code for that. It measures how well the cat is functioning. Maybe when it gets nicer out I'll pull the plug on my rear o2 and see if I get a code.
 
You should get a code but the computer does not always monitor the catalytic convertor which is the primary use of that downstream o2 sensor. It is also used for SOME, very limited fuel trim adjustments to help increase the life and efficiency of the cat but mostly just for monitoring the overall efficiency. It's only a matter of time before you have driven it enough for the particular test to run that monitors downstream o2 sensor operation.

As for cleaning the carbon, you can use carb cleaner or mopar combustion cleaner. A toothbrush would be the best type of brush but if you can't tolerate the slow pace do NOT get anything more coarse than the brass? bristled brushes. You don't want to score the head up while cleaning the carbon. If you clean the pistons with these brushes, only do so with the pistons raised all the way up to prevent scoring the cylinder walls and try to wipe away as much carbon as possible.
D
 
You should get a code but the computer does not always monitor the catalytic convertor which is the primary use of that downstream o2 sensor. It is also used for SOME, very limited fuel trim adjustments to help increase the life and efficiency of the cat but mostly just for monitoring the overall efficiency. It's only a matter of time before you have driven it enough for the particular test to run that monitors downstream o2 sensor operation.

As for cleaning the carbon, you can use carb cleaner or mopar combustion cleaner. A toothbrush would be the best type of brush but if you can't tolerate the slow pace do NOT get anything more coarse than the brass? bristled brushes. You don't want to score the head up while cleaning the carbon. If you clean the pistons with these brushes, only do so with the pistons raised all the way up to prevent scoring the cylinder walls and try to wipe away as much carbon as possible.
D

I knew it should have thrown a code. Well, as for waiting for the monitor to cycle, I'm pretty sure it's been running long enough/often enough for it to have checked by now. Lately, it seems like I've been spending more time in the car than not.
 
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