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Reusing Head Gasket [Merged 2-8] headgasket reuse re-use re-using

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4ged4G63

20+ Year Contributor
421
4
Sep 6, 2002
Arizona
ok so I was searching through some old invoices in the folder that I got from the previous owner when I bought the car and I found that my car has an HKS head gasket and ARP bolts. Well, I screwed some #@%#@%#@%#@% up on the motor(2 years has gone by since it was rebuilt and since I bought it) and need to rebuild it and a friend of mine was sayin that I don't need a new head gasket and bolts. :confused:

Opinions and/or info please on this...thanks



:dsm:
 
I have reused them many times as well and NEVER had a problem. ON an especially old one you can pull the thing apart and clean out any build up and rerivet it, but if you do MAKE SURE IT IS LINED UP ON DOWELS PROPERLY.

Later
 
92awddsm said:
I have about 12 yrs experience as an ase certified master automotive machinist and have seen others problems from reusing gaskets. Cometic, felpro, etc all have some failure rate when being reused. I am not spreading misinformation, Ive seen it first hand. And my experience ranges well beyond just dozens of cars. Like I said, its your car so do as you please, I dont really care.

And I never said you CANT reuse it, I just advise against it. Next time you look at a new gasket, pay good attention to the embossed areas around water ports and the oil feed hole going to the head. Now compare this to a used gasket. Better yet, measure the uncompressd gasket with a micrometer then remeasure after it has been compressed and then tell me they dont compress. I can gaurentee it will be at least .008" difference between new and used. That is enough for me to not want to do the job a second time.

And for those that swear by a used gasket, let me know. Ive got a used cometic that I use for plate honing. If you are interested, Ill sell it to you.


We are talking about a 4 layer metal, not cosmetic or any other fiberbased material like a feelpro.
 
Ive reused mine a few times as well on my race setup making over 400 whp and going 11's in the 1.4...No problems here.

Im not a certified mechanic but ive built many 4g63's and definently know when and when not to reuse something.
 
i put togeather a motor with a stock bottom end, but im sending out the old block to be cleaned up to build a forged motor. can i reuse my cometic HP head gaskets and the arp studs? i dont think the arp studs are stretch type and the head gasked is just like a big hink of metal :LOL: where as a stocker is that soft stuff. if i can save 190 bux on the next motor that would be awsome!
 
id say go for it on the arp's but kinda iffy on the hg. personally i wouldn't, but thats because i only want to pull the head off/ put it on once. call cometic and ask them if its reuseable, and if so what should be done to help it seal.
 
They say never to reuse a gasket whethers its a head gasket, or a gasket for something else. NEVER REUSE A GASKET THAT HAS ALREADY BEEN INSTALLED :nono:

-Alex :thumb:
 
You can reuse the head studs, but DO NOT use the headgasket again. It will blow. Some gaskets you can get away with reusing, But not a headgasket.
 
I would say that your safe with the studs but please do not reuse your headgasket. Its better to be on the safe side just get yourself a new one and then you won't be worrying about it. Hope this helps and happy modding :thumb:
 
Well i finally got the head off and this is what i found from the timing belt breaking. do you think i can just get a new head and belt and it will be alright or is it time for a rebuild.
 

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those marks on the pistons are from the valves hitting, because the stock pistons do not have indents in them for the valves, i wouldn't suggest reusing those pistons, could mean trouble but thats just my opinion
 
Duke901 said:
Well i finally got the head off and this is what i found from the timing belt breaking. do you think i can just get a new head and belt and it will be alright or is it time for a rebuild.

Incredible the responses and unqualified replies you have received based on so little info. Was the head destroyed or did it just bend valves and maybe cracked some guides?? Who told you to replace the head?

You do need to examine the cylr walls and check for galling and wear. Can you see any/all of the original hone cross-hatch? It would be good if you had some pictures of the head damage.

There is nothing wrong with reusing those pistons if the cylrs are good. You should however use a very small peening hammer and peen any raised areas on the pistons after they have been thoroughly cleaned. What you don't want is any sharp or raised spots which can get hot and cause detonation (knock/pinging). I can describe this in more detail when you are ready.

Let us know how the cylrs are and if you have any piston rock?

Cheers,
GTM
 
The cylinder walls look really good, you can still see the cross hatch. Do you mean piston rock like when the piston is at top deap and i can move the piston back and forth alittle, if so ya i can alittle bit.

Also with the head the intake valves are all bent, thats the farthest i got into it.
 
Dunno what kind of pistons 'damnthecops' is using, but the OEM and RockAuto-OEM pistons I've seen all have those valve reliefs. Heck, the ones in my engine have them.
 
Duke901 said:
The cylinder walls look really good, you can still see the cross hatch. Do you mean piston rock like when the piston is at top deap and i can move the piston back and forth alittle, if so ya i can alittle bit.

Also with the head the intake valves are all bent, thats the farthest i got into it.

If you can see the cross-hatch all the way up, this is good. A certain amount of piston rock is to be expected but it should not be easy to get them to move. There should not be a ridge that you can catch a fingernail on and possibly not even felt. If you were not using oil and had reasonably good performance before this problem then save the rebuild for the next time.

Just because the valves are bent and the guides damaged doesn't mean the head is junk. You should properly clean the face and then check for warpage with a straight edge. If you don't feel comfortable with this a good machine shop can do it for you. If you buy a used head it still needs to have the valves and seats ground and may need to be surfaced, the valve guide seal need to be replaced so it's not a given there is any advantages to replacing the head for yours may be much better.

Ask if you run into problems or have questions.

Cheers,
GTM
 
GTM said:
If you can see the cross-hatch all the way up, this is good. A certain amount of piston rock is to be expected but it should not be easy to get them to move. There should not be a ridge that you can catch a fingernail on and possibly not even felt. If you were not using oil and had reasonably good performance before this problem then save the rebuild for the next time.

Just because the valves are bent and the guides damaged doesn't mean the head is junk. You should properly clean the face and then check for warpage with a straight edge. If you don't feel comfortable with this a good machine shop can do it for you. If you buy a used head it still needs to have the valves and seats ground and may need to be surfaced, the valve guide seal need to be replaced so it's not a given there is any advantages to replacing the head for yours may be much better.

Ask if you run into problems or have questions.

Cheers,
GTM


wow no underscore im impressed LOL :thumb: not to steal the thread but when my valve's met my ross pisition's, i used a polishing disk and polished down the stamp marks so there were no more spot's

you can get a new set of valve's they run about 100.00 same with bronze guide's from SBR and i like to get new guide seal's from the dealership. they run about 30.00
 
Ya i can move the pistons, alittle bit not much but they do move. I can see the cross hatch all the way down. before the belt broke the motor ran good, didnt even burn oil. With the head all of the intake valves are not seated down all the way anymore. so i dont know if they are bent or the head is total shit. Iam just worried that the bottom isnt ok sence it took one heck of a jar from the valves hitting.
 
jott5555 said:
wow no underscore im impressed LOL :thumb: not to steal the thread but when my valve's met my ross pisition's, i used a polishing disk and polished down the stamp marks so there were no more spot's

you can get a new set of valve's they run about 100.00 same with bronze guide's from SBR and i like to get new guide seal's from the dealership. they run about 30.00

Whhaaattttt _underscore_ :) (some people eh)

That's why we are here, keep people honest so there is no stealing. The argument(s) (legal sense) are to not remove metal, polish over small cracks, and removing the coating on the piston tops. By peening you have effectively forged the metal back into position and closed up any surface cracks without loosing anything. It probably takes 2-5 minutes per "eyebrow" if you have the proper peening hammer which is about 1.5" x .5" diameter and a 6"-7" handle. This offers enough mass that you can get 2-3 blows per second and shape what you want with some glancing blows.

From the right source you can buy Eaton valves for $3 ea., A "valve grind" gasket set will have most if not all the gaskets and seals needed unless he's going metal then he will have to piece them together and pay the higher prices.

Cheers,
GTM
 
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