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1G Restoring front end suspension: Which parts to replace?

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The loaner tools are inadequate. I used a piece of plumbing hardware as a receiver. Galvanized fitting if i recall.
What you need are lock ring pliers not snap ring. Yiull need a set if you go into the trans.
 
The two bracket ones are part of the bracket. Order new brackets and you get new ones. I never replaced them.
 
I'm going to try to see if one of my larger sockets will work as a receiving ring. That's how I got the front bushings out of the control arms today, using a c-clamp. I loaned out a bushing tool from Autozone but it was useless. The folks in the store didn't even know they had it so it must not be used a lot.

But since I'm throwing out the BJ, can't I just pry off the bottom cap? If neither solution works, what about hammering it off, making sure that the bottom of the control arm is resting on something secure and hard? I'd put something on the stud, of course, either one of the adapters from the loaner or a socket.

As for brackets, I'm not sure what you're referring to. Do you mean bushings, for the front crossmember?
 
No i mean the small bracket that secures the control arm.
No you dont need to remove anything from the balljoint. Do not press on the stud. It will just bend the cup. Press on the cup itself.
 
Ah, now I know what you mean, from upthread. I didn't realize you could order replacement brackets for those. I've never seen them anywhere.

The brackets are fine, but the bushings are worn. Not sure how much that matters given that new bushings are going in on either end, the subframe and control arm, plus the new ball joints. But, I just figured while I'm at it, might as well replace them, along with the front crossmember ones.

Btw I took a good look at the front underside today and I just don't see how I can get the subframe off and back on with the trans still on and the yoke still on the prop shaft front end. I'd have to secure the subframe after all the nuts (bolts?) are off and swing it down and forward over the yoke, then down. I don't think I can manage that by myself and I don't have anyone who can help me. So I'll probably wait till the trans is off to remove it, and put it back before I put the trans back on. This way I also have an extra mount for the trans.
 
Im a little confused. Once the TransferCase off the driveshaft just hangs and hits the floor. I dont see how it's in the way. Subframe drops right out. Im certain I used a floor jack when I did it and the driveshaft was of no concern.
 
Im a little confused. Once the TransferCase off the driveshaft just hangs and hits the floor. I dont see how it's in the way. Subframe drops right out. Im certain I used a floor jack when I did it and the driveshaft was of no concern.

I supported the prop shaft as my understanding was that you don't want it to sag.

Per the FSM, page 21-85:
2. The propeller shaft should be suspended so that it’ is not sharply bent.

Is that not the case, and I can just let it drop as far as it wants to go, just making sure it doesn't get scratched or dinged or dirt gets inside? It's not like a CV axle or tie rod that way?

I believe that the front part of the prop shaft, in front of the first center bearing, is just 2 u-joints, and the lobro joint comes after. But isn't it still bad to let those just hang?
 
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I usually support it but it can hang some and be pushed to the side also. Ive let it hang to the ground with no issues also.
 
I suppose that it wouldn't be too bad if I temporarily pushed it down while removing the subframe. I was just going on the assumption that, being a pivoting joint, it shouldn't ever be allowed to go too far out of straight. But perhaps that's more for dynamic than static situations, unlike a CV axle joint.
 
I suppose i would follow the manual. I honestly don't know what it could do to the joint. The subframe still pulls out easily. Worst case drop the shaft out completely
 
I considered dropping the prop shaft previously, but not for this. Rather, to clean, derust and paint it, and make sure it was ok. But, that would just add to the complexity of all this, and I'm hoping to avoid it for now. Eventually, I'll get to it. On a 28 year old car pretty much everything is going to need a good look.
 
Quick progress report.

Finally got the ball joints out with a much better kit from Advance Auto that had 23 parts instead of the Pep Boys one with 7 parts. It has a receiving tube that fit the underside of the control arm perfectly. It took longer to align everything than to actually press the BJs out. Of course using an impact wrench helps a lot.

Cleaned up and derusted the front cross member and painted it, and when it cured I reinstalled it to allow me to safely disconnect the rear mount. That done, I drained the 2 lines to the steering assembly and then removed it, disconnected the rear mount, lowered the front of the prop shaft, and removed the subframe using a floor jack. It was easier than I expected. Getting the steering rack out was way harder, given that access to the relevant parts was tight. But it's all out now and ready for cleaning, derusting and painting.

Glad I got the assembly out as one of the boots is fully torn. It was getting late so I didn't have time to give it a good look, but I'm hoping that the inner rod is ok and I can just clean it and install a new boot. I'll get one for the other side even though it's intact. I think they come in pairs anyway (I'll probably get a Delphi).

I also gave the engine bay a good degreasing and rinse, along with as much of the underbody as I could get to, and removed the air filter assembly (I ordered the K&N because what the hell). And now that the subframe is out I'm going to give the underbody there a more thorough cleaning. I can't believe how dirty the car is!

Now I need to drop the trans and see what's going on there. I hope it's just a worn clutch and not something worse. Once it's off and I've confirmed that it's just a worn clutch I'll order a new one. In the meantime, I was at Mitsubishi the other day to order a bunch of small OEM parts, seals, nuts, trans fluid, filter, etc. They should come in next week. I also ordered ES subframe, control arm and sway bar bushings, new ball joints, a rear crank seal, and t-case and rear diff oil, the K&N filter, and am about to order struts, mounts, sway bar links, tie rod ends and wheel bearings and seals (going with KYB, Moog & Timken there). I also need to get a new battery, and, fairly soon, new tires, pads and rotors all-around.

I also have a lot of cleaning, derusting and painting to do. With everything off I might as well do a proper restoration. It's nice to look under a car and see everything clean and newly painted. But the main thing is that the car will hopefully actually work again, and be a lot more enjoyable to drive (of course I'm going to have to go back to the rear end and redo everything there now, but probably not till next spring).

I'm hoping to have everything done by early to mid-November, then insurance, registration, plates, and off she goes. 4 months or so for so much work for one person isn't too bad, especially for a newbie.
 
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