[RESOLVED] Visual Inspection

[architechnik]

I've removed the head and pistons and done a visual inspection of all the components. I would like to know what I'm looking for in terms of possible damage and what is normal. I also want to know what to take to the machine shop and what to ask.

What items in the block and head are good with a visual inspect and which items need to be done with some sort of gauge? (I've purchased plasti-gauge for reinstalling but that won't work for cylinders )


Here's the breakdown of everything so far:

The head smells like burnt oil. There is definite exhaust gasses getting into the head and I would assume this is from the valve seals. The cam journals do not appear scuffed or rubbed in any way. There was no debris in the head. The valves are CAKED with crap and they hardly close all the way because of it. The cams appear fine with no scuffing or odd marks.

The cylinder walls appear extremely smooth (I did not expect) and I cannot feel any unusual marks. The piston heads are CAKED with black soot and there is burnt oil marks down the sides. There was very little play in the pistons while installed. All the rod bearings seemed in good condition (no scoring).

The HG was in excellent condition, no marring or broken channels, and removed in one piece.

There were shiny metal shavings (aluminum I think) in the oil pan, one about 1/8-1/16" wide and 3/4" long and almost too thin to measure(along with some weird rubber pieces). There were four or five of these shavings, the longest being the one mentioned. Could these be from the original install?

This next week I will try to remove the block from the vehicle and inspect the crank and bearings. I've been working without a lift, so everything's been by finagling (very sore).

 

[Defiant]

Trouble with inspecting things that need measuring (cylinder bore roundness, crank bearing surfaces, rod big-ends) is that the measuring itself requires knack and practice. If you don't do this sort of thing on a regular basis, you probably won't get the same measure twice. For things that aren't visually apparent, you need a competent machinist. Visually you can look for scuff patterns on the piston skirts, signs of burn damage to the corner of the crowns, and unusual or suspect scratches and polished areas on the bores.
I'd worry about that bearing material. Check the center rear balance shaft bearing.

 

[architechnik]

I really hope it's the balance shaft bearing; just another excuse to get the eliminator kit. I'll pop that off before I remove the crank.

Can I get to it while the block is still in the vehicle or will that have to happen after removal?

EDIT: Never mind. I found the tech article and I'm reviewing it right now.

After a brief discussion with a couple machine shops in the area, I decided to go with purchasing a used basic shortblock and basic head. Quoted cost for a valve job - $550 "assuming there isn't anything extra that needs to be done." The block they wouldn't quote and with the cost of pistons for the overbore I would guess at least another $1k.

The used block has only the pistons, crank, and bearings, rings, etc - no balance shafts so the removal will only involve putting in the oil blocks and stubby - guaranteed not to spit oil and has good compression. $718.64 including shipping.

The head does not have the cam shafts, but everything else. I think the problem with my current head is the guides and seals and this will solve that. $138.50 including shipping

The current engine will be machined and rebuilt this summer when my cashflow resumes and I can send it someplace far away where the shops don't rape people. I'll have plenty of time to do it right and I'll have a vehicle until then. Problem solved!