[RESOLVED] Transmission Rebuild Guide

[gijoe985]

Anyone know if a guide or tutorial on rebuilding the 5 speed tranny? I've done some searching and haven't found anything yet.

 

[turbolover10]

Go to www.vfaq.com and look under the transmission section.

Thats what I used to rebuild my first tranny, awesome write up! Good Luck,

Edit,

See you don't even have to type anything in, Diplomat made it easy for you.

I was going to make him work a little

 

[Diplomat]

Did you look in the VFAQ yet?

1G Rebuild Guide

2G Rebuild Guide

If we new what year your Talon was, we could help you out a little better. Please update your profile.

Edit: Aww, turbolover10 beat me to it.

Also, DSMtuners.com very own Tech Article archive has grown quite a bit in the past year or so. When looking for how-to guides, don't forget to check there.

 

[gijoe985]

I don't actually own one yet. I am doing all of my research first. One of the ideas tha tI am playing with, is rebuilding an engine and tranny before I get my car. That way I spend my bucks on internals and not on go fast parts. I found a nice engine rebuild kit, ARP studs, and some porting work for the engine. And then I had a guy give me some really great tips on how to make a howitzer proof tranny. I just was looking for a guide to help me along.

 

[turbosax2]

And then I had a guy give me some really great tips on how to make a howitzer proof tranny.

You better share those tips with the rest of us then

 

[gijoe985]

This is from a PM. He commented that many people like to critisize each other's ideas/work, and for that reason he hasn't made a tutorial. I really appreciated his advice and think it's pretty cool. If anyone would like to add comments or ideas to what he wrote me I would love the addition. Constructive criticism is always welcome. Constructive...

"With that said. You will need a bearing seperator plate(about $200) a hydrolic press. A cut off wheel and die grinder and a few plastic trays.

You will be able to get the bearing seperator under some of the bearings and just be able to press them out, some you will have to cut the cage off then cut off the inner part of the bearing that is pressed onto the shaft. Also when you remove the bearings you need to measure and document the snap rings thickness that is on the upper bearing of the input shaft and counter shaft and keep it in a plastic container with the other input shaft parts or countershaft parts(keep them seperate).

Then just take the shafts apart and replace the syncros accordingly, then when you assembal the shafts if the clips that hold the hub sliders in place come out make sure you put them in so the opening is not in the same position on the oposite side(you want them to be in differant positions).

Put yours shafts back together and press the new bearings on, then take a feeler gauge and check the thickness of the groove where the snap ring goes and see if you can reuse the old snap rings or need to get a differant size(you want it as close to the gap size as mitsubishis snap ring choices will allow).

Then you pull all of the lower bearing races out and replace them with the new ones that come with your bearings. The upper bearing races have shims behind them so pull them out one at a time and measure and document the shim thickness. After this you want to take two 1/2" long peices of solder and put the 180* apart behind each upper bearing race(front diff, center diff, input shaft, counter shaft) I like to use a little gear lube to help hold the solder in place. Then you completely assembal the transmission to Mitsubishi's torque specs. Dissasembal the transmission and take all of the races out and measure the thickness of the squeshed solder and document which race they are from, if you have uncrushed ones then you need to put the shim that was behind the race into the transmission with the solder in with it and reassembal the transmission.

After this you look up your preload/endplay spec you either add to the solder thickness for preload or subtrace from the thickness for endplay. ie. preload of .002 and your solder was .030 thick, you want a shim of .032. There will be tolerances because Mitsubishi makes about 5 shims from .010-.060 so you choice the one that gets you in the tolerance range.
"

There it be. Seems pretty straight forward. Hope people like it.