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[RESOLVED] Tighten Timing belt?

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4Motion4g63

15+ Year Contributor
257
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Feb 27, 2005
Lawton, Oklahoma
I have Found allot of slack on my Timing belt, Since there is a tensioner how do you take up the slack?

Is the belt Stretched, It has some Oil residue on it but not damaged in any other way....I found post on the same problem but no instructions on how to tighten it up....
 
If the slack is between the cam gears, after the car has been sitting for a bit, this is normal.

Give the engine a bit of a "bump" with the starter, and check the tension between the gears again. You'll find the slack is gone.
 
You have to use the tensioner pulley to tighten it. The tensioner on these cars are automatic tensioners. They adjust the tension theirself and cannot be tightened. The tensioner pulley has the center bolt offset so it isn't actually in the center of the pulley. Since it is like this when you turn the pulley the belt will get tighter or looser.

If I were you I would just replace the timing belt and all the other components. When were they replaced? Chances are it is time for them to be replaced especially since there is oil on the belt now. I would also find out how oil is getting on the belt and fix that problem. At the very least replace what is leaking.
 
4Motion4g63 said:
Its got quite a bit of slack, When I rev the engine it bounces up and down between the cam gears....... Could it be a bad tentioner?

Like I already suggested I would change all the timing components including belt, tensioner, tensioner pulley, and idler pulley. I would also suggest changing the water pump at the same time since the timing belt has to come off to change it.
 
STOP driving the car NOW. Ok, done? Now answer us this, is the slack between the cam gears or further down the belt? If your belt feels loose (if you're familiar with deflection, i'm talking more than 1/2" of play), then you need to park the car and pull your timing covers off to see what's going on.

furthermore, to accurately tell us where your slack is, save this image and go into MSPaint and point out where it is..

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STOP driving the car NOW. Ok, done? Now answer us this, is the slack between the cam gears or further down the belt? If your belt feels loose (if you're familiar with deflection, i'm talking more than 1/2" of play), then you need to park the car and pull your timing covers off to see what's going on.

furthermore, to accurately tell us where your slack is, save this image and go into MSPaint and point out where it is..

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Sorry I have Removed All my paint programs, But it is at the VERY top of the belt between the two cam gears...... AT least 1/2 Deflection, It has done this for a very long time, I Just did a NEW head/Water/Oil/Belts/Tentioners/Gaskets about 3or4 years ago and about 4,000 ish miles the car didnt run for a few years or so... The install was done by a buddy that has been building dsm since 94, he had no way to explain it also because it should be properly adjusted according to him...

I will halfto park it and look at it fri, Maybe the its just a adjustment that came undone....
 

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Like I already suggested I would change all the timing components including belt, tensioner, tensioner pulley, and idler pulley. I would also suggest changing the water pump at the same time since the timing belt has to come off to change it.

Yes if I go that far with a project I usually do all i can to Not halfto go back there....
:thumb: Just gets expensive to do so....
 
4Motion4g63 said:
Sorry I have Removed All my paint programs, But it is at the VERY top of the belt between the two cam gears...... AT least 1/2 Deflection, It has done this for a very long time, I Just did a NEW head/Water/Oil/Belts/Tentioners/Gaskets about 3or4 years ago and about 4,000 ish miles the car didnt run for a few years or so... The install was done by a buddy that has been building dsm since 94, he had no way to explain it also because it should be properly adjusted according to him...

3 or 4 years with oil on the belt could cause that. I wouldn't take a chance.
 
Man This means that I will need a new belt and tentioner, I may just get a new belt....

I want to build a new motor soon and started setting back money for it, but this may cut a chunk out witch would suck since I am just about to rip it all out ne-way....I just want to spend the least amount if NOTHTING to fix this,

Im gonna pull the cover off and hope it pulls some slack out by re adjusting the tention, If I got to buy a belt I will but seams like a waste, just not as much waste as a full motor that runs if it slips a tooth....:thumb:

Ill let you know!

? where do you get the Tool for the tentioner?
 
Thx blckspoolin but where do you GET this
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Seams like a tool to have if you own a DSM and I dont mind paying for the right tools if they are usefull...
 

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Just Noticed that my "marks" are almost opposite of your "Marks" my hole is sitting at 6 o'clock your is at 12 o'clock

Picture taken from bottom of car up
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I was told that if this is too far adjusted that it will tear up the belt due to clearance issues.
Your "HOW TO" does not specify where is correct postion of this idler......IT may need to be clarified so not to prevent OVER tighten and ruined belts...thx blckspoolin you how to was very helpfull.....

I believe mine is in a potion that still needs adjusting matching your marks BEFORE any tension was,applied....
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I think i found my problem, it may have been overlooked when installing the timing belt and was never adjusted but the tensioner is holding...
 

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"So, spin the engine 6 times (watch the dowel pin, it should start at 12o'clock and do 6 FULL revolutions to 12 o'clock again before all timing marks line up again.) WAIT 15 minutes and then check the gap on the auto tensioner with 2 drill bits. The factory spec for the gap is between .15 and .177"; Commonly used drill bits to measure these sizes are 5/32" (.157) to 11/64 (.172). To be obvious, the gap must LARGER than 5/32" and smaller than 11/64".
 
That's very strange that the holes of your timing pulley are facing 6 o'clock. Neither the 7 bolt nor the 6 bolt needs to be in that position?!

"Clockwise - 1G tensioner arm
Counter Clockwise - 2G tensioner arm"

If you are 6 bolted, you need to tighten the timing pulley clockwise. If that is the position your pulley is in, it leads me to believe that whoever did your timing set it by placing slight tension on the pulley and pulling the grenade pin on the autotensioner (I've noticed a lot of different cars used this method, my friend's mr2 and another friend's 2.2L subaru just pulled the pin). If that's the case and the rod of the autotensioner is all the way out, you need to redo your timing.
 
You can tell just by looking at the picture how loose it is. It is just waiting to skip a few teeth.
 
PROOF that a DSM always wins!
I took it apart today, trying to get it done because its going to rain all week off and on.
After setting the timing that took 45min! It was all ready, I went to pull the pin out of the tensioner and the bastard pin broke off in it!!!!:mad::mad::mad:
Now I got to wait till its NOT Raining to put it back together.........
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:cry::cry: Ive got 1600 Dollars worth of NEW fuel system parts, GM Blow thu, and a few other goodies to install and I end up getting my ass kicked buy a stupid allen wrench bah I knew its too good to be a easy fix......:notgood:
 
That's very strange that the holes of your timing pulley are facing 6 o'clock. Neither the 7 bolt nor the 6 bolt needs to be in that position?!

"Clockwise - 1G tensioner arm
Counter Clockwise - 2G tensioner arm"

If you are 6 bolted, you need to tighten the timing pulley clockwise. If that is the position your pulley is in, it leads me to believe that whoever did your timing set it by placing slight tension on the pulley and pulling the grenade pin on the autotensioner (I've noticed a lot of different cars used this method, my friend's mr2 and another friend's 2.2L subaru just pulled the pin). If that's the case and the rod of the autotensioner is all the way out, you need to redo your timing.

You are 100% correct on the nose...... We neglected to set the tension correctly when we installed it.....We had a Broken bold on the water pump to block to deal with that took 4 hours to remove when it was installed, It was almost 40C outside also at night we were spent....
IT survived for 4 years without proper tension, OVERboosting, and No Knock sensor WTF
I got so lucky.....

Also we have the tool that has the handle and you cannot turn it clockwise due to clearance issues but I can get it to the same position you're shows counterclockwise........:thumb:
 
Car is Running, and BETTER than ever....

My Timing is NO longer surging back and forth, Guess when the belt was loose it pulled timing because all the slack or it was JUST the slack between the Intake and Exhaust side!
Finally it pulls again! and HARD broke loose 1st gear and 2nd!!!!

WoW!

Also The "Blue Point" tensioner tool is a PIECE O CRAP! It was Too Big to get clear of some of the brackets and cast of the block, and Broke to boot! Dont buy that one go with the socket style you can get it where you need easy!
 
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